framing canvas
-
fyg
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri 16 Nov, 2007 8:00 pm
- Location: Cumbria
- Contact:
framing canvas
I'm a professional artist and have started to do my own framing. So far I've just mounted some stuff but am now preparing to move into the big time and take on some proper framing! I can cut and pin the mouldings no problem but want to be sure I'm doing the right thing next... SO, I'd be really interested to 'canvas' opinion on the best technique for framing stretched canvas to a conservation/museum standard. What is the best way to fix the canvas in place? Are there any things I should be avoiding, such as tape that will deteriorate? I don't need glazing or backing board.
All opinions gratefully recieved, many thanks.
All opinions gratefully recieved, many thanks.
- Merlin
- Posts: 1540
- Joined: Thu 05 Jun, 2003 5:50 pm
- Location: Cornwall
- Organisation: Merlin Mounts
- Interests: Aviation
-
fyg
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri 16 Nov, 2007 8:00 pm
- Location: Cumbria
- Contact:
-
Roboframer
Re: framing canvas
.............. or tape!fyg wrote:Are there any things I should be avoiding, such as tape that will deteriorate? I don't need glazing or backing board.
Not if you mean sealing tape - no point in sealing the back if the front is open - having said that there is nothing wrong with a protective back cover.
Lion sell tapes suitable for rebate sealing though and you can also seal the rebate with diluted PVA/varnish/etc as well.
-
Moglet
- Posts: 3485
- Joined: Mon 25 Jun, 2007 5:43 pm
- Location: The Shire
- Organisation: An Urban Myth
- Interests: I'll let you know if I get my life back.
- Contact:
Hi FYG,
Check out canvas offsets in the Lion catalogue. They are sorta "s-shaped" metal strips which allow you to secure the canvas within the frame rim. The screw to hold a canvas offset in place is put into the rim, not the canvas. Lion do the offsets in a range of sizes.
Check out canvas offsets in the Lion catalogue. They are sorta "s-shaped" metal strips which allow you to secure the canvas within the frame rim. The screw to hold a canvas offset in place is put into the rim, not the canvas. Lion do the offsets in a range of sizes.
........Áine JGF SGF FTB
.Briseann an dúchas trí shuiligh an chuit.
.Briseann an dúchas trí shuiligh an chuit.-
fyg
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri 16 Nov, 2007 8:00 pm
- Location: Cumbria
- Contact:
Re: framing canvas
[quote="Roboframer
.............. or tape!
Not if you mean sealing tape - no point in sealing the back if the front is open - having said that there is nothing wrong with a protective back cover.
Lion sell tapes suitable for rebate sealing though and you can also seal the rebate with diluted PVA/varnish/etc as well.[/quote]
What the hell's sealing tape??! I know nothing! I don't think I need that though. Why do you need to seal the rebate?
When I said tape, I meant around the back of the frame, where it sits against the stretcher
.............. or tape!
Not if you mean sealing tape - no point in sealing the back if the front is open - having said that there is nothing wrong with a protective back cover.
Lion sell tapes suitable for rebate sealing though and you can also seal the rebate with diluted PVA/varnish/etc as well.[/quote]
What the hell's sealing tape??! I know nothing! I don't think I need that though. Why do you need to seal the rebate?
When I said tape, I meant around the back of the frame, where it sits against the stretcher
-
Roboframer
Re: framing canvas
Whether you need to seal the rebate or not is debatable - but you mentioned conservation/museum standard - sealing the rebate will protect the canvas from acids in the wood - then again maybe you should seal the stretcher bars as well.fyg wrote:
What the hell's sealing tape??! I know nothing! I don't think I need that though. Why do you need to seal the rebate?
When I said tape, I meant around the back of the frame, where it sits against the stretcher
Some framers feel it necc to tape around the back of the stretcher bars,(which it sounds like you are on about) I don't - what is the point when the whole front - the imporatant bit, is open to the elements? I'd rather have things pass through from front to back/back to front, than get trapped and fester.
One thing you can do which will help is to use rust-proof tacks or staples to stretch the canvas.
I would say that conservation or museum standards cannot apply to stretched oils - or anything left open from both sides, or even one side. To frame anything to such a level, in my book, it would have to be sealed from the back (i.e. - the whole back covered and sealed) and the front and glazed with UV glass.
- prospero
- Posts: 11695
- Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire
Hi fyg.
Check a few of the recent back posts as there has been some discussion on this very topic........
btw. I Just noticed Lion* do a rebate tape, 6mm wide that is designed to cushion the inside of frame where it prsses on the edge of the canvas. I might try a roll.
they also do some cute bendy plates that are great for 'box' canvases that people will insist on having framed, even though they are not designed for that end.
*Lion Picture Framing Supplies. B'ham 0121 773 1230
btw. I Just noticed Lion* do a rebate tape, 6mm wide that is designed to cushion the inside of frame where it prsses on the edge of the canvas. I might try a roll.
*Lion Picture Framing Supplies. B'ham 0121 773 1230
- Steve N
- Posts: 2998
- Joined: Sat 21 Jul, 2007 2:32 pm
- Location: Bristol
- Organisation: Retired
- Interests: Walking our retired Greyhound,art, falling asleep on sofa in front of the telly
- Location: Bristol
Hi FYG
If you are painting your own canvas with oils, as you know they take a long time to dry and cure. If you frame them when they are wet, if at any time the frame needs to be taken off, you could find that the frame is stuck to the painting. You can line the rebate of the frame with tape to stop the painting sticking, the problem you can have is with thick oil paint. One solution is to keep the rebate from touching the paint, here is how I do it. On a clean flat surface place 4 bits of mountcard on the surface, now place the painting face down on top of the 4 bits of mountcards, so that the surface of the painting is clear of the surface ( you might have to use more layers of card to do this). Now cut some strips of conservation mountcard (no wider than the depth of the stretcher ) keeping the strips of card flat to the surface, staple or tack the card to the stretchers. You can now put the frame on the canvas, the surface of the painting will not touch the rebate of the frame so will not stick to it.
Hope I have described this OK and hope it helps you out FYG
Steve N
If you are painting your own canvas with oils, as you know they take a long time to dry and cure. If you frame them when they are wet, if at any time the frame needs to be taken off, you could find that the frame is stuck to the painting. You can line the rebate of the frame with tape to stop the painting sticking, the problem you can have is with thick oil paint. One solution is to keep the rebate from touching the paint, here is how I do it. On a clean flat surface place 4 bits of mountcard on the surface, now place the painting face down on top of the 4 bits of mountcards, so that the surface of the painting is clear of the surface ( you might have to use more layers of card to do this). Now cut some strips of conservation mountcard (no wider than the depth of the stretcher ) keeping the strips of card flat to the surface, staple or tack the card to the stretchers. You can now put the frame on the canvas, the surface of the painting will not touch the rebate of the frame so will not stick to it.
Hope I have described this OK and hope it helps you out FYG
Steve N
Steve CEO GCF (020)
Believed in Time Travel since 2035
Proud to have sold Ready-made frames
Believed in Time Travel since 2035
Proud to have sold Ready-made frames
-
fyg
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri 16 Nov, 2007 8:00 pm
- Location: Cumbria
- Contact:
