Paint finished frames
Re: Paint finished frames
Paint technology is very complicated. I don't think there are a lot of chemists among our ranks.
But when all's said and done all you have to worry about is if it sticks to the frame and the frame can be handled
without it marking or rubbing off.
But when all's said and done all you have to worry about is if it sticks to the frame and the frame can be handled
without it marking or rubbing off.
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Re: Paint finished frames
There does seem to be a lot elitism creeping into Forum posts lately regarding hand finishing/ hand finished frames
Sorry , but as they say there is more than one way to skin a cat,
It's okay if the only paint you deem fit to use in your workshop is F&B, But I am HAPPY to use B&Q paints, just because I do it does not mean I'm a second rate framer , far from it, same goes, if I want to use factory finished moulding, it's getting a bit much hearing the holier than thou attitude in some replies to threads on the Forum, regarding the use factory finished moulding.
Sorry rant over, been a hard day
Sorry , but as they say there is more than one way to skin a cat,
It's okay if the only paint you deem fit to use in your workshop is F&B, But I am HAPPY to use B&Q paints, just because I do it does not mean I'm a second rate framer , far from it, same goes, if I want to use factory finished moulding, it's getting a bit much hearing the holier than thou attitude in some replies to threads on the Forum, regarding the use factory finished moulding.
Sorry rant over, been a hard day
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Re: Paint finished frames
It's only half-over Steve.
I think we all evolve out own techniques as we go along. And whatever works for the individual is the best thing.
The paints I use I tend to stick to (literally sometimes) for no better reason than I've used them for years and I know
how they behave. Tried and tested. Any others I would have to thoroughly road-test before using them on customer work.
I hope I'm not classified as a paint snob.
I think we all evolve out own techniques as we go along. And whatever works for the individual is the best thing.
The paints I use I tend to stick to (literally sometimes) for no better reason than I've used them for years and I know
how they behave. Tried and tested. Any others I would have to thoroughly road-test before using them on customer work.
I hope I'm not classified as a paint snob.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
Re: Paint finished frames
Apparently, that's because your eyesight hasn't developed to the esoteric middle-class levels that Vintage Frames has!But I am HAPPY to use B&Q paints
He obviously sees himself as some sort of paint sommelier, able to detect subtle hints of pigment where is visual plebs only see paint!
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Re: Paint finished frames
Yes.
And what's wrong with that?
And what's wrong with that?
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Re: Paint finished frames
Glimpse maybe it's time to stop typing for a little while.
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Re: Paint finished frames
I'm sure he already said he was going to...
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Re: Paint finished frames
If you are happy with b & q paints, and more importantly your customer is happy with your finish, then great.
If vintage frames will only use F &B paints and that works for them and their customers are happy, then that is great too.
I use F & B paints and b & q paints and daler rowney acrylic paint, and my customers are all happy.
I also think FF frames are good and their is a market fir ikea frames.
Seriously, I only recently came back due to posters arguing and people are fighting over which brand of paint you use and whether that makes you middle or working class.
As Prospero says , if it sticks, it works
If vintage frames will only use F &B paints and that works for them and their customers are happy, then that is great too.
I use F & B paints and b & q paints and daler rowney acrylic paint, and my customers are all happy.
I also think FF frames are good and their is a market fir ikea frames.
Seriously, I only recently came back due to posters arguing and people are fighting over which brand of paint you use and whether that makes you middle or working class.
As Prospero says , if it sticks, it works
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Re: Paint finished frames
If you are happy with b & q paints, and more importantly your customer is happy with your finish, then great.
If vintage frames will only use F &B paints and that works for them and their customers are happy, then that is great too.
I use F & B paints and b & q paints and daler rowney acrylic paint, and my customers are all happy.
I also think FF frames are good and their is a market fir ikea frames.
Seriously, I only recently came back due to posters arguing and people are fighting over which brand of paint you use and whether that makes you middle or working class.
As Prospero says , if it sticks, it works
If vintage frames will only use F &B paints and that works for them and their customers are happy, then that is great too.
I use F & B paints and b & q paints and daler rowney acrylic paint, and my customers are all happy.
I also think FF frames are good and their is a market fir ikea frames.
Seriously, I only recently came back due to posters arguing and people are fighting over which brand of paint you use and whether that makes you middle or working class.
As Prospero says , if it sticks, it works
Re: Paint finished frames
I think you're missing the point actually, this has nothing to do with the end product (indeed as Prospero noted other paints may very well do a better job and I don't think anybody on here has stated a particular preference for using F&B paints). However F&B have a huge marketing budget that has persuaded people that their paints are worth twice(?) as much per can as non-F&B. Moreover they have come up with a recipe that it isn't possible to replicate in B&Q's mixing machine; B&Q will never put enough pigment (etc., I don't pretend to have a PhD in paint science) into their paints.Steve N wrote:It's okay if the only paint you deem fit to use in your workshop is F&B, But I am HAPPY to use B&Q paints
People who are used to paying double for a can of paint with F&B on it than without (and double to the painter for applying it "Sorry, Madam, it takes longer to apply, it's proper paint that.") will also understand paying a premium for a frame made with F&B. So the option is there to ride on the back of their marketing band-wagon and charge more.
Does it look much different in the end? Probably not much, if at all. But the opportunity for your customer to have a frame that is called 'Elephant's Breath' is something they may well be in the habit of paying more for. Stick to B&Q if you like, but you may well be missing an opportunity. There are firms out there charging thousands extra for supplying their products in a F&B colour; I guarantee they're not charging a premium for B&Q paints.
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Re: Paint finished frames
Is it the colour or the brand paint that is important to the customer?
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Re: Paint finished frames
It's funny but paints do vary according to what pigments are used. I use acrylic Red Iron Oxide as a base for gilt varnish.
It's expensive - about six quid for a 60ml tube. But it covers in one coat. One day I got a tub of Red Ochre. The colour is
as near as makes no difference and about 12 quid half a litre. But the stuff doesn't cover as well and you would need about
3-4 coats. No brainer.
Paint is cheaper than time.
It's expensive - about six quid for a 60ml tube. But it covers in one coat. One day I got a tub of Red Ochre. The colour is
as near as makes no difference and about 12 quid half a litre. But the stuff doesn't cover as well and you would need about
3-4 coats. No brainer.
Paint is cheaper than time.
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Re: Paint finished frames
I've had customers wanting painted frames in the exact same shade as their doors and general architraves. I once had to
buy a quite expensive tin of "Urbane Grey" from a company called Little Greene. It was good stuff actually. I've got half a tin
left if anybody wants some.
buy a quite expensive tin of "Urbane Grey" from a company called Little Greene. It was good stuff actually. I've got half a tin
left if anybody wants some.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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Re: Paint finished frames
You should try Annie Sloan’s range, makes F&B look postively plebeian. Oops sorry.
Here’s a nice painted lady round a German impressionist painting, sold for a shed load in that harlot’s yard, namely Bond Street.
Here’s a nice painted lady round a German impressionist painting, sold for a shed load in that harlot’s yard, namely Bond Street.
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Re: Paint finished frames
Brand. Same as with training shoes, football teams etc. etc. They're all shoes, or expensive football players, but what counts is what it says on the tin.GeoSpectrum wrote:Is it the colour or the brand paint that is important to the customer?
https://www.mumsnet.com/Talk/home_decor ... n-cabinets
I bet she went F&B in the end.
Top tip from Annie Sloane: if you want the paint to be thicker then leave the lid off for a day or two (she says overnight).
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Re: Paint finished frames
Nice one. And have a glass of really good burgundy while you wait.
What do you think the process is in that frame? Really coarse sandpaper scrapping back to the base coat? But there’s a deal more magic to it than that...
Prospero, you’re nifty at this sort of thing, no?
What do you think the process is in that frame? Really coarse sandpaper scrapping back to the base coat? But there’s a deal more magic to it than that...
Prospero, you’re nifty at this sort of thing, no?
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Re: Paint finished frames
Yes, it's unfortunate, that there is any such impression, but there are diiferent members offering hand finishing at different levels. Not all of us will want to cater for the same part of the market place, it's horses for courses. My self I'm aiming at the area in the market where my skills are a natural fit. I do a little bit of this and a little bit of that and I'm probably somewhere in the middle. The techniques that I use and try to explain are the kind of stuff that puts hand finishing within the grasp of many of us that want to move in to hand finishing without moving too far up market.Steve N wrote:There does seem to be a lot elitism creeping into Forum posts lately regarding hand finishing/ hand finished frames
That said I like to read the posts from the real specialists, who are doing the elite stuff as well. They may be elite compared to where I am at, but it does not stop me admiring the things that they can do.
There's no shortage of choice of paints and I'm not saying that some are not better than others for particular uses, but what counts is the finished result and I'm not sure that many customers are likely to be all that bothered which type, or make of paint you are using. If your work has got the WOW factor, everything else is just details. I hope that we are able to encourage those forum members who are thinking about getting in to hand finishing try some ideas, experiment a little and find their own level.Steve N wrote:there is more than one way to skin a cat
Mark Lacey
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― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Paint finished frames
Not particularly! So far no one has mentioned beautiful workmanship and stunning finishes which are just right for the item framed and don't look out of place amoung other nice picture in classy frames. I like to use a variety of different paint type and brands according to what I'm doing. It's what suits me and different people will have their own preferences for paints. If the result is really nice that fine with most people!GeoSpectrum wrote:Is it the colour or the brand paint that is important to the customer?
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Paint finished frames
You could try tempera if you didn’t fancy the snobby F&B...
Ask the local farmer if there is an exposed riverbank of clay nearby. Take some ice cream sized scoops, melt the clay into a large pale of water, sift with muslin a few times and leave on the stove to dry out. Then, when dry, mash it up, add water, mash it up, add egg yolk, mix and paint. Let dry and seal.
Easy and very unelitist.
Ask the local farmer if there is an exposed riverbank of clay nearby. Take some ice cream sized scoops, melt the clay into a large pale of water, sift with muslin a few times and leave on the stove to dry out. Then, when dry, mash it up, add water, mash it up, add egg yolk, mix and paint. Let dry and seal.
Easy and very unelitist.
Re: Paint finished frames
That's a very 'old school' technique Ben. That's how artists used to mix their paints before oil paints were invented.
They had hordes of young apprentices who had the job of grinding up pigments in a pestle and mortar all day.
When you mix in the egg yolk you have to make sure that absolutely no white get in the mix. Ever tried drying a yolk
with a paper towel? I can't even fry one without busting the yolk.
Some artists still use Egg Tempera. Only trouble is you have to mix a fresh batch every time as it soon goes manky.
If Michelangelo was here today he would go to B&Q.
** I realise that your post was not entirely serious. Neither is mine.
They had hordes of young apprentices who had the job of grinding up pigments in a pestle and mortar all day.
When you mix in the egg yolk you have to make sure that absolutely no white get in the mix. Ever tried drying a yolk
with a paper towel? I can't even fry one without busting the yolk.
Some artists still use Egg Tempera. Only trouble is you have to mix a fresh batch every time as it soon goes manky.
If Michelangelo was here today he would go to B&Q.
** I realise that your post was not entirely serious. Neither is mine.
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