Welsh Rugby Cap

[evanstheframe]

HELP. As a newbie I have only framed pictures paintings etc. My daughters boyfriend has just had his under 16's Welsh Rugby Cap. I know he wants it framed but I am not sure how to do it. My main problem is how to fix the cap into the frame so it does not move in any way without damaging the cap? I thought to use FrameBox to achieve the depth. make standard frame, glass, front mount, then the FrameBox, back mount and backing.
Please can I have your views and help on this, a full breakdown in idiot format would help a great deal lol. How do I fix the cap in position ? I would love to do this job for him as he has worked so hard to make the team.

Many thanks,
Lyn (ETF)

[SquareFrames]

Hi Lyn,

Hope the phone call sorted it out for you? Now if you get stuck again, like I said in my email I will be in after 4pm, just ring me later. Remember what I told you. Framing a rugby cap or football cap, baby's bonnet, is easier than it looks or suggests. Once you have chosen the size you want it, chosen the colour of the mountboard (conservation or museum standard) to which you stitch the cap to, cut the extra pine moulding on its side for the box and framed that.....its easy put together. I have framed many, many caps over the years, and found this method the safest and the method that affords the most security and stability for the box frame. I have experimented with 5mm and 10mm foam core board for the box, but having sides on a box over 3 inches does not offer much stability. I have also tried, tested and quite like the tapered box method as perfected by Dave Woolass, but hard to explain over the phone. If you want to see this in action telephone Lion for a copy of his video or DVD. This method allows you to use any kind of moulding with any depth of rebate, but needs some practice.

I am heading out (under protest I might add) to my nephews birthday party luncheon. Today's the day he becomes a spotty little oik! and a teenager. So if memory serves me correct he should become obnoxious, crass, and start answering us back with words of one syllable, picking his nose, scratching his wobbly bit, (note I said bit not bits), start slouching in the chair, mind you bit like all us men on a Sunday...eh?


Talk soon,

Steven

[Merlin]

Hi Steven, glad you helped Lyn out with his project.
Unfortunately, we were not quite privy to your phone call. How about a more detailed explanation on the forum for other newbies.

Likewise we have done many caps and found the Attach- ezi a very useful tool.

[SquareFrames]

Hi,

Hi John, what I will do over the next few days, is frame a baseball cap and take photos at each stage for you, if that suits?

Knowing Lyn as I do, I asked him to ring me at home on Sunday morning and gave him a detailed description, its a darn sight easier than trying to write it down, but I will do that over the next few days, so please bear with me. It could be closer to the weekend, as I am in London on Thursday at a Guild FC meeting.

Talk soon,

Steven

[John]

If you need any help Steven, with getting pictures up on the forum, please let me know.

John

[SquareFrames]

How did one know I would ask? hahahhahahahahahahahaha

[Merlin]

Hey, Dont worry. I had to ask as well..
Tee Hee

[SquareFrames]

Hi Folks,

Havent forgot!!!!!!!!! Just been so darn busy, but......

At long last, the cap is ready, even put a wee teddy bear in with it to totally confuse you, the photos have been taken, now writing the description. I will post all within the next couple of days, if not sooner.

Steven

[SquareFrames]

Hi Folks,

Well, here we are, the pics as promised, although not an actual rugby cap as such, its a cap belonging to a rugby and cricket club, but the same shape, etc....

Framing a Baseball Cap & Teddy Bear With Club Colours

The main reason for making a box is self evident, to create space for the object and to keep it from touching the inside of the glazing, the other reason is whilst creating the depth is to allow the object to breathe and stop it rotting, and possibly disintegrating, an example being a baby’s bonnet or piece of fabric art, etc. These objects must be kept at least 25mm away from the inside of the glazing for breathing room.

Hopefully the images are in the correct order.

1. The cap

2. The teddy bear

3. The layout, after deciding the border sizes @ 125mm and because of padding the cap with polyester wadding / padding and the depth of the bear, the depth of the box was determined at 102mm (4 inches)

4. The Cap filled with padding to help create shape, then stitched onto the piece of Conservation board, also the teddy bear is stitched to the board. The stitches are held onto the rear of the board by flat buttons, an second piece of board is placed at the back to act as an undermount and barrier between the stitches and the MDF.

5. First section of the box made from 1 ¾” scooped moulding, cut by turning it on its back, thus allowing the rebate to make the slot for the backing to fit in.

6. Second and third sections of the box made by choosing a 1 ½” moulding, again cit on its back to fit round the original box moulding. 2 of these frames (stacked) to create the required depth.

7. Glass and top mounts cut

8. Inner mounts measured and cut and placed between second and third frame to see 2 double mounts

9. Top frame cut to contrast with colours of objects and clients choice

10. Frames (that made the box) adhered together with Araldite adhesive

11. Top frame attached to the 3 box frames using the Yellow Fletcher gun and screws, ample support for all.

There are many differing ways to make a box frame: here are just three that spring to mind, I prefer to use a simple method where possible to, 1. make it easy for me, and 2. help keep the customers costs down…

A. The stacked method as I have shown being one of the simpler, and it alleviates the need for deep rebated mouldings, as the outer frame is attached to the box via pins /staples, etc.

B. The deep rebated moulding method, using slips, spacers, foam core, etc to create the depth required.

C. The ‘Tapered Box Method’ as perfected by Dave Woolass GCF, this method is excellent for any type of object or fabric art, again this alleviates the need for deep rebated mouldings. This is best explained and demonstrated by buying Dave’s video / DVD, or by attending a Guild Branch meeting sometime during the year, where Dave is regularly asked to frame ‘Little Ted’

The Images are as follows:



1.. The cap


2.. The teddy bear


3.. The layout, after deciding the border sizes @ 125mm and because of
padding the cap with polyester wadding / padding and the depth of the bear,
the depth of the box was determined at 102mm (4 inches)


4.. First section of the box made from 1 ¾" scooped moulding, cut by
turning it on its back, thus allowing the rebate to make the slot for the
backing to fit in.


5.. Second and third sections of the box made by choosing a 1 ½" moulding,
again cit on its back to fit round the original box moulding. 2 of these
frames used to create the required depth.


6.. Glass and top mounts cut


7.. Inner mounts measured and cut and placed between second and third
frame to see 2 double mounts for aesthetic reasons


8.. Top frame cut to contrast with colours of objects and clients choice


9.. Frames (that made the box) adhered together with Araldite adhesive for
strength


10.. Line inner box with either mountboard or paint


11.. Put together, tape as normal.

I hope ths helps the newbies on the forum and those new to picture framing

Steven