Stacked/Built up framing techniques

[philgazz]

I have been researching stacked frames for a while now and have decided that my oils and pastel paintings will work well with the type of frame design as shown in the attached images.

What I'm not sure about is the inner moulding - is it a slip, is it a modified moulding, how is it attached to the flat part of the frame etc. I've searched everywhere but found nothing conclusive - would be good have a reference showing stacked moulding techniques also explaining the above and an image showing the cross section through the assembly.

Any help you can give would be much appreciated

PS - I have a router table, a planer/thicknesser and a table saw

[prospero]

You're playing my tune there.

Rather than the gold slip I would tend to go for an off-white one. Get your paints out.
I use over 1000ft of Rose&Hollis A276 bare Obeche per year as well as others and 99.9% is painted off-white.
This sets the frame away visually. The gold tends to constrain it somewhat and gives the impression that you
are peering though a hole.

I like the flat profile edged by two narrow profiles which is a system that can be varied to produce lots of variations.

[vintage frames]

I'm not sure if this answers your question correctly.
You say you have a router table and a table saw.
If that's the case then you must know a fair bit about wood working.
So, If I wanted to say how to assemble stacked mouldings, I'd say ask Rose and Hollis to send you a paper catalogue. From that you can select the relevant mouldings and then slice off the bits you don't want and join them to the sections you do.
Use your router table to create a joining rebate on the sections you're connecting together.

If it's just information on the slip in the second photo, well that's just one of the selections from R&H joined up and inserted into the frame.
You can use your table saw to adjust it's width.

[Justintime]

Technical carpentry skills aside (as mine are still in development), the yellow Fletcher Multimaster point gun can be a very useful and idiot-proof tool for joining stacked frames.

[JKX]

I wouldn’t actually call that stacking unless the black part is made up of a couple or more profiles, it’s just a frame with an inner slip frame. Stacking, in my world anyway, means creating a custom profile with probably more than two mouldings, or creating extra width or rebate depth - building something really.

If the inner is flat it can be fixed with tabs but probably glued, (unless being used as a glass spacer), tabs would help while it dries. That would take precious rebate depth though.
If it’s a small moulding with its own rebate then offset clips or tabs secured with staples.

[vintage frames]

My way of making these frames is to assemble all four lengths individually.
I glue all the elements together and then knock very thin moulding pins half-way in to hold everything in place.
When the glue has dried, I just use pliers to pull out the pins.
Another way is to wrap masking tape around the whole package.
Wood glue likes some pressure to hold but there is no benefit in overdoing it.

[philgazz]

Thanks guys – really helpful
Prospero – I get you re slip colour and thanks for the references - the R&H and Simons catalogues are hopefully wending their way shortly
Vintage Frames – the methodology is a lot clearer now – I’ve been having trouble with terminology associated with custom frames and this has helped a lot.
Justintime – joinery skills - mine are too!!! I’ve used multipoints before but inserted with pliers (cant justify the gun yet. . . )
JKX – understand re definition – appreciate the technical details – all very useful.

Incidentally – I have seen headless pins used in assembly on youtube – do any of you use this method or recommend it – I would guess they’re next to impossible to remove and possibly the pins method to support the work while gluing suggested by vintage frames would be better – what brand of adhesive would you recommend?

Thanks once again and I’ll post images of my first successful effort!!

Cheers

Phil

[Justintime]

Adhesive - Titebond 3 is my preferred.

[vintage frames]

Adhesive - Titebond 3 is my preferred.

A wise choice.
In truth you can use any brand, they all stick.
The Titebond glues are the preferred choice of luthiers and they are quite particular about their glues.
Maybe stay away from the Gorilla stuff, though.

[prospero]

Nothing succeeds like excess.

[philgazz]

Thanks again y'all - so helpful