Hi everyone,
i've been framing for a while now. The instructor retired from the local college before I learnt everything one needs to know ... Some things I just figured out myself, like framing paintings in reveal frames, but I keep being asked for the box frames with the mounted art in the middle without mount card, like floating. Is this relatively easy to do?
first floating/box frame
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Re: first floating/box frame
Are you referring to a deep cavity display frame? Here in the States we call them shadowbox frames.
If so, the basics are the same as any other framer other than the internal depth. There are a myriad of mounting methods to learn depending on the contents. It is a specialty of some framers. There is at least one major book published from Jim Miller and possibly other authors. You can check out YouTube as well.
If so, the basics are the same as any other framer other than the internal depth. There are a myriad of mounting methods to learn depending on the contents. It is a specialty of some framers. There is at least one major book published from Jim Miller and possibly other authors. You can check out YouTube as well.
Jerome Feig CPF®
http://www.minoxy.com
http://www.minoxy.com
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Re: first floating/box frame
Hi Sarah
You have probably worked this out by now as is it a while since you posted but just in case this might be useful.
the most important thing I have learned about floating prints especially if on fairly heavy paper 300gsm or more is to put the archival tape through the mount board rather than making a loop with it. there is a name for this I am sure but I dont know what it is. If you make a loop the paper will eventually pull it down and the paper will fall to the bottom of the frame. Just inside the area the paper will cover on the mount board cut two or three or more depending of the size of the paper angled slits a bit wider than your tape. the angle will help you put the tape through as they will open up as you push the mount board from opposite sides. Put the tape through from the top of the board so half will stick to the back of the board above the paper and the other half will be sticky side out on the front of the board ready for the paper. Now the weight of the paper cant pull it off. You can also build up the area behind the paper with foam core or other light substrate, we use 5mm foam board so then the print will be raised above the mount board and cast a shadow. I am not sure about the permanence of this as I am sure foam board is not acid free.
We either frame edge to edge or float everything, easier and more contemporary than cutting window mounts, but of course you do need a frame with a bit of depth, with spacers/fillets/slips to keep the glass away from the mount board
all the best Mark
You have probably worked this out by now as is it a while since you posted but just in case this might be useful.
the most important thing I have learned about floating prints especially if on fairly heavy paper 300gsm or more is to put the archival tape through the mount board rather than making a loop with it. there is a name for this I am sure but I dont know what it is. If you make a loop the paper will eventually pull it down and the paper will fall to the bottom of the frame. Just inside the area the paper will cover on the mount board cut two or three or more depending of the size of the paper angled slits a bit wider than your tape. the angle will help you put the tape through as they will open up as you push the mount board from opposite sides. Put the tape through from the top of the board so half will stick to the back of the board above the paper and the other half will be sticky side out on the front of the board ready for the paper. Now the weight of the paper cant pull it off. You can also build up the area behind the paper with foam core or other light substrate, we use 5mm foam board so then the print will be raised above the mount board and cast a shadow. I am not sure about the permanence of this as I am sure foam board is not acid free.
We either frame edge to edge or float everything, easier and more contemporary than cutting window mounts, but of course you do need a frame with a bit of depth, with spacers/fillets/slips to keep the glass away from the mount board
all the best Mark
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Re: first floating/box frame
The Hedgehog method is very good for ‘floating’ artwork. There is a lot on here about that. Lion have also put out some useful videos on how to effectively mount in this way.
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Re: first floating/box frame
Hedgehog here too. I used pass through hinges for ages until one valuable piece cockled so badly. If done properly hedgehog is quick and very easy compared to pass through.
Justin George GCF(APF)
Insta: georgetheframer
Insta: georgetheframer