Gonna need a bigger Morso!

[chaos]

Lovely frame from L&J. Customer thinks it will look fabulous on his work he is picking up on Sunday.

Can't cut the thing, it is too wide and too tall to get the blade over it. Tried turning it around but still have the same problem. Any ideas? I have a Morso F. I have raised the blade as there was a stop on the height of the foot bar. I am not competent with a saw and the circular saw is out of action. The only other thing I have here is a Dremmel (Insert hysterical emoji here!)

https://larsonjuhl.co.uk/lje-coastal-wo ... -498000167

[NTG999]

Hi, I don't deal with Larson Juhl but don't they have a chop service?

[pramsay13]

If you move the moulding to the right you can cut into it a bit, then move it back to position and cut further each time. You might have to measure the outside of the frame and cut to there, rather than using the stops.

[vintage frames]

It's been years since I used a Morso, but if I remember right, after removing the pedal stop and when the blades are at their max height, you should be able to get a few more mm by 'toeing up' the pedal.
Remove also the rebate supports - it's a wide moulding, you don't need them.
Now over-measure the frame lengths by 10mm each and draw a 45deg pencil line at each end.
Use a common handsaw to cut the mitres following those lines.
Now you should be able to trim the mitres to full accuracy with the Morso blades.

[theframer]

This should help start from 3.00 minutes

[JKX]

Your Morso should cope with that pretty easily.

There are three more things you can do to raise the blades.

1. Remove the pedal height adjusting bolt completely.

2. Adjust the draw bar (40) the bottom of it is threaded, but this is designed manly to LOWER the blades as they wear down with sharpening. If your machine isn’t new then maybe the blade block has been lowered and needs raising again.

3. Move the draw bow (38) to the other holes in the pedal tipper (35) - this will give a massive increase in height. I did this with mine with a similar issue and left it there for ever.

Instructions for 2 and 3 above are in on pages F4-F6 in the manual - attached.

Don’t remove the rebate supports unless you have to and then put them back when you’ve cut half way through, otherwise the blades can take out the lip of the rebate … that’s what they’re there to prevent!

https://www.thegrumble.com/data/manuals ... tsList.pdf



…

[prospero]

There is a cunning but slight irksome way of doing it....

The widest moulding you can physically get in a Morson is about 4¼".

Rough cut the rails slightly longer with a saw (square cut). Then you have to 'eyeball' it. Forget the production stops.
Calculate the length you need and work to the sight-edge. Make a pencil mark on the sight-edge where the cut will be.

Back the blades fully and slide the end in as-per-usual. Start cutting (remove the rebate supports and cut gently) advance the blades
until you can't go further then cut sideways - pushing the moulding to the right and cutting the waste until you have enough room
to run the blades along the cut face to advance the cut further. The pencil mark is where you cut to.
Then you can nibble away to do a full cut.

Hard to explain but think about it. It works.

Having done one end you can repeat on the other end. The tricky bit is getting the length right, that's where the pencil mark comes in.
You then have to cut the opposite rail exactly the same length.

As I say, it is a bit of a long-winded process but I've done it a few times.


** This is mostly done on big chunky mouldings so if you go steady you won't snap the sight edge.

[Justintime]

There should be a warning on some of the higher end LJ mouldings, that they can't be successfully cut on a Morso and will require a double mitre saw or to be ordered on chop. I got into a very sticky situation within six months of starting out. A whole box of very expensive moulding which I could not Morso. Thankfully someone at LJ took pity on me, took it all back and posted out chops...

[JFeig]

I have had the fortune to have visited the back rooms of several finished corner manufacturers. Their tool of choice was cabinet table saws with 14" blades (+350mm) with sliding table jigs to cut the miterable corners.