XXL linen backed vintage movie poster to frame

[NealG]

Good Afternoon
I have some lovely linen backed posters to frame for a client
One poster is circa 200 x 100 cm
Im proposing framing to edge,using a spacer (enconospace) and UV cast acrylic,nice 40mm square moulding and a subframe

My question is what do I do to keep the canvas from sagging once sitting in the frame on the spacer !
I’m thinking about using some acid free board and suitable tape on the back of the poster to give it some rigidity and then adding some double sided tape or PVA between the board and the MDF backing

Am i in the right ball park ?

If so should the board be covering the entire back of the linen backed poster less a boarder which will be tapped ?

Which tape would you recommend?

Thanks in advance
Neal

Ps apologies if covered in previous posts

[JFeig]

I would suggest that the backing board be slightly larger than the actual linen lined poster which should be hinged to the backer board. This way there is no undue pressure on the actual item being framed. Thus the spacer is against the backer board and not the art. Slight rippling is the "nature of the beast" with changes in humidity.

[JKX]

That ‘s much too big for econospace.

I would either use an inner frame with an extended lip or just put the acrylic directly against it and use perimeter hinges on all sides, in either case.

What thickness acrylic are you thinking of?

[Justintime]

I wouldn't ever use double sided tape on its own. It's too prone to fail at some point. It's useful to hold something in place while a glue goes off. Nothing wrong with pva if you're using mdf. If you said you were using an archival backing I'd say use the archival Eva, to keep everything in the package archival. I think Lineco or Larson Juhl do a white gummed linen tape, it's a heavy tape but should still be lighter than your poster.

[JKX]

That ‘s much too big for econospace.

I would either use an inner frame with an extended lip or just put the acrylic directly against it and use perimeter hinges on all sides, in either case.

What thickness acrylic are you thinking of?

It’s the outer frame that would benefit from a wider lip, as acrylic, especially if not thick enough, can bow enough to pop out.

A wider lip on an inner frame would also be good for concealing any hinges though.

[NealG]

Thanks for all your feedback

@JKX,I’m thinking of 3mm UV Cast Acrylic,do I even need to use a spacer,would putting the acrylic straight onto the artwork keep things nice a flat or should I really be trying to keep some space between art and acrylic ?

Please can you expand on “perimeter hinging” ? Would that be as per J Feig suggestion of using a slightly larger board than the artworks and hinge all way round ?
Would I be able to hide the exposed part of the hinge in the rebate or prehaps use a slip ?

Any thoughts

Thanks for your time

[JKX]

Acrylic heats and cools at a more similar rate to the rest of the frame contents than glass, so condensation is unlikely.

3mm is far far too flexible over that area, I’d be looking at 8!

It’s not just the risk of it sagging out of the rebate, even if partially, it’s the likelihood of distorted reflection.

Perimeter hinging would be as per Jerome’s post, yes.

I’d also be looking at keeping the weight down by using foam board and correx.

[JFeig]

Please can you expand on “perimeter hinging” ? Would that be as per J Feig suggestion of using a slightly larger board than the artworks and hinge all way round ?

This is where a pass through hinge is used. This is the same process as used in a float mount. I would suggest that the hinge is set back from the top of the linen backed art by an inch or 2 (25-50 mm). This will give more strength to the board that you are mounting to on the top edge. Any spacer will not be pressing onto the hinges.