Cutting Bevels on Jumbo Card

[RobM]

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to use more Jumbo mount board, as I think it tends to look more impressive, especially when doubled up with another thin mount. However, I'm finding it really hard to cut well on my manual mount cutter - it always comes out a bit squiffy. See attached photo.

What techniques do you use to get round this problem? Should I be just using more strokes on the bevel cut? I do find that even the initial penetration is a lot tougher than on thinner card, and that's where the problems start. Okay, enough awkward innuendo!

Happy New Year, All!

[Justintime]

Hi Rob, first terminology. A jumbo board is an extra large, larger than standard size board and doesn't refer to the thickness of the board. In the UK we refer to the thickness of mountboard in terms of microns or mm, e.g. 1400mic/1.4mm or 2400mic/2.4mm etc. In the US it's generally referred to in terms of ply e.g. 4 ply or 8 ply etc.
I imagine that you're talking about a 3mm+ thickness board that you're struggling with? In which case yes, I would advise taking multiple passes until you cut all the way through.
There is also the question of blades. When I had a Fletcher mount cutter it was pretty much one blade fits all in terms of cutting deeper mountboard. When I moved over to a Keencut, there were specific blades required for different tasks. Assuming that you have a Keencut, it's essential to read the manual and use the specific blade required for that particular job. In my experience, however hard you try you'll never get a satisfactory finish if you're using the incorrect blade for the mountboard at hand.
You've got some over cuts to deal with too. My advice would be that it's about consistency of strokes. Slow and steady is best and once you have the muscle memory, you'll have consistent cuts.

[prospero]

Set the blade depth using scraps first. Trial and Error. 2.0mm board cuts fine in one stroke if you find the 'sweet spot'.
Too much blade advancement will make it go awry it should cut smoothly with not excessive effort.
This is crucial. I use 1200 blades with a double edge. Thicker blades are more rigid but if you get the depth
right they don't flex excessively. If the cut needs extreme force then you have too much blade out or need a
new blade. Blades are cheaper than mountboard.

Thicker boards need multiple passes with the blade advanced progressively. Bit of a PITA.

A word on settings: The lower stop (the one nearest) needs to have <>2mm subtracted. So if the mount width is 70mm
set it at 68. The top stop will read 'true' as the extra blade accounts for the difference.

Have Fun.

[RobM]

Hi Justin,

First of all, apologies for the slow response; I'm terrible at posing questions on here and then not logging back on for days on end.

Thanks for correction - yes, I do mean thicker mount board, as opposed to a jumbo sheet.

I am using a Keencut, so I'm following their instructions, which recommend TECH S 012 for 1.4mm cards, and TECH S 015 for cards 3mm and over.

Ever since posting my question, I've tried practising more with some throwaway pieces, and I had a little more success by doing basically as you describe - slow, while taking multiple passes. That's definitely needed more as the thicker board is that bit more gnarly.

Thanks, Justin.

Hi Rob, first terminology. A jumbo board is an extra large, larger than standard size board and doesn't refer to the thickness of the board. In the UK we refer to the thickness of mountboard in terms of microns or mm, e.g. 1400mic/1.4mm or 2400mic/2.4mm etc. In the US it's generally referred to in terms of ply e.g. 4 ply or 8 ply etc.
I imagine that you're talking about a 3mm+ thickness board that you're struggling with? In which case yes, I would advise taking multiple passes until you cut all the way through.
There is also the question of blades. When I had a Fletcher mount cutter it was pretty much one blade fits all in terms of cutting deeper mountboard. When I moved over to a Keencut, there were specific blades required for different tasks. Assuming that you have a Keencut, it's essential to read the manual and use the specific blade required for that particular job. In my experience, however hard you try you'll never get a satisfactory finish if you're using the incorrect blade for the mountboard at hand.
You've got some over cuts to deal with too. My advice would be that it's about consistency of strokes. Slow and steady is best and once you have the muscle memory, you'll have consistent cuts.

[RobM]

More cracking advice. Okay - I'm going to be having another go of it with a few scraps tomorrow, and I'll be following this advice carefully as I do so!

Thanks, Prospero

Set the blade depth using scraps first. Trial and Error. 2.0mm board cuts fine in one stroke if you find the 'sweet spot'.
Too much blade advancement will make it go awry it should cut smoothly with not excessive effort.
This is crucial. I use 1200 blades with a double edge. Thicker blades are more rigid but if you get the depth
right they don't flex excessively. If the cut needs extreme force then you have too much blade out or need a
new blade. Blades are cheaper than mountboard.

Thicker boards need multiple passes with the blade advanced progressively. Bit of a PITA.

A word on settings: The lower stop (the one nearest) needs to have <>2mm subtracted. So if the mount width is 70mm
set it at 68. The top stop will read 'true' as the extra blade accounts for the difference.

Have Fun.