Work flow and advice please

[+Rafe+]

Hi all,
Looking for a bit of advice / sense check on methods.
I have mainly worked to level 1 / 2 FATG standard now looking to broaden more to level 3 and my work flow needs some adjustments.

First, is the great request to frame a large print in ‘ a simple thin frame’ .
I mainly use Rose & Hollis subframes at the moment and generally start considering them above about A2 if using a thin moulding (often around 15mm face x 30mm deep) especially with AR70 and float mounts etc.
Interested to know how others approach this?
I also ask this if I’m being too overally cautious and then creating more work / cost.

Do you have a general rule for when you move to a subframe or reinforcement with thin mouldings? R&H sw3850 and then larger Lion L001 which at A1 plus mount I would.

Second is spacers. My current method is making my own by adhering 3mm foamboard to mountboard using acrylic double sided tape, then trimming on the mountcutter. I normally add a little EVA glue when fitting into the frame.
It works well and looks good but is obviously labour intensive. I’ve used Enco spacers a couple of times when only needing a subtle 2mm gap, but had heard stories in the past about adhesive failure so never fully trusted them.
Would be interested to know what others are using for float mounted work? Are people mostly making their own, using Enco, or buying pre-made spacers from elsewhere?

Finally (and this is a common request x3 times a week) close mounting / no margin framing. I’ve generally always steered people away from true close mounting due to cockling and glass touching the item but the demand for this style seems constant and a lot of local framers are clearly offering it.
I don’t have a heat press setup, so interested to know what people are using for lower value posters / decorative work instead? Self-adhesive boards? If so any recommendations on products?
And if mounting posters this way, are people then letting the spacer sit directly on the mounted print, or still creating a small gap around the item where the spacer sits?

Thanks in advance — always so helpful hearing how others approach these things!

[Justintime]

Subframes - if there is flex in the frame and weight in the package then yes a subframe.
Spacers - I make cotton rag and conservation board spacers as you've described , with intermittent ds tape and dabs of Eva. Rose and Hollis sell white ivory and black paper wrapped spacers in various depths. I use them for level 2 work when matching isn't required (I'll probably get told off for it) but obvs not got level 1. If you can get hold of some 3mm wedges the 6mm spacers can be joined on a foot operated underpinner. It saves a lot of time! I cut the spacers 1mm smaller than the rebate and when joined they slip straight in, no glue required. I make sure the wedges face the glass not the work/mountboard.
Close framing - I have a hotpress when appropriate. Usually I'll hedgehog it onto board leaving a space all around or when appropriate I'll cut a board to the same size as the print and hinge from the work around the back if the board and it'll sit under the spacers.if it's level 2 work I'll line the sides of the rebate with rebate tape and make not to secure the back tight.

[+Rafe+]

Thanks Justin. Yep I do hedgehog but for cheaper items looking for a quicker / cheaper solution for the cheaper / glossy posters.

Anyone use adhesive boards?

Thanks in advance.

[JKX]

“Enco spacers”? Econospace!

I used to use them but they’re very expensive for what they are, and don’t look anything like as good as what you’re making yourself. I never had a problem with their adhesive though, it sticks to the glass very aggressively. Plus I never followed their instructions, I mitred them. They could still sag on larger frames, but never did.

Don’t rely on DS tape alone for sticking mount board to foam board, or spacers to rebate, use dots of PVA with just a few bits of DS tape to hold in place while drying.

5mm foam board with mount board surface paper stuck to it is easier to cut.
Home made spacers are very labour intensive on a manual cutter; a total doddle on a CMC. Buy a CMC.

In my experience most people wanting skinny frames on larger pieces were thinking of cost, I know that because the solutions, aluminium profiles or deeper rebated skinny wood frames with subframes, made them suddenly like larger mouldings!

We used to show some mount slips with mouldings if they matched a range (otherwise they were fixed to mount samples), plenty of people would think they were perfect for their big posters!

Self adhesive boards are prone to failure. There used to be a great product called PMA by 3M. Like a huge roll of DS tape, artwork could be repositioned until burnished down.
You can buy a similar non repositionable product, but it’s very aggressive and you get just the one chance.
I generally avoided dry mounting.

A cheap print once dry mounted can be framed with a spacer resting on it, unless it needs to be float mounted for some reason.

[Justintime]

If you have a lot of this work coming in, I'd suggest hunting out a cheap Hotpress HGP260, mounting and laminating onto a display board is relatively cheap and easy. Alternatively call it a level four job and put the poster directly up against the glass, if it's low value and replaceable and the customer is informed.

[+Rafe+]

Thanks both for confirming my thoughts.

I sold my HGP260 abut three years ago as I used it a grand total of 4 times in the five year I owed it. I might keep sniffing around the adhesive boards and try a few - others views welcome.

Cheers

[Tudor Rose]

A Jetmounter would seem a better option for you. Takes up less space and very versatile. We sold our Hotpress due to lack of use in recent years, but would not be without the Jetmounter. For lower level jobs it is extremely useful.

[+Rafe+]

Thanks Jo, I'm currently enjoying my rabbit hole researching Jetmounter / techniques ...

[Richard Photofusion]

Drytac do a self-wound adhesive called retac, where one side is super strong (put onto the substrate) and the other is repositional - suitable for putting together wedding albums and the like.
https://www.drytac.com/wp-content/uploa ... UK-TDS.pdf

+3 for the jetmounter - we got rid of our HGP360 as we couldn't use it with dibond or aluminium, with resin coated prints, but it was good for heating up substrates in the winter prior to feeding them to the roller laminator.