Packing Out Floating Frames

[RobM]

Could I ask how many of you pack out your floating frames, when the depth of the canvas being fitted is discernibly shallower than the moulding?

So I'm thinking of two ways (as attached photos, showing cross sections):

1. Pack out with foam core; or
2. Use an inner frame

Of course, the foam core would be the more straightforward option, but there's the added issue of getting fixings "through" the board. I guess it's the norm to just lay foam core strips in between to leave gaps for fixings, for this option?

The inner frame is certainly more professional, but of course more involved.

Are there any other ways?

Also, I was taught to leave a 5-10mm gap from the top of the canvas to the top of the moulding. Is the the norm, or do you use other dims (or even keep them flush)?

Thanks All.

[JFeig]

Also, I was taught to leave a 5-10mm gap from the top of the canvas to the top of the moulding. Is the the norm, or do you use other dims (or even keep them flush)?

I have never heard nor followed that rule. I have worked on "floater frames" where the are was above, even with, and below the top surface of the stretched art over the past 40+ years or so.

Regarding the use of a premilled moulding as a way of lifting/shimming the stretched art off of the base of the moulding, that seams to be a rather costly method of doing so, vs raw wood strips, metal washers, or sections of hollow tubing(or wood dowel) over a wood screw.

[theframer]

I find a moulding that is the depth i need to raise the canvas and just cut 50mm strips placed where i screw it to the frame so only use about half a meter of moulding depending on how many screws are used.

[Justintime]

Lions supply canvas offsets from 0-32mm in height.

[RobM]

Thanks Jerome for having responded to this one on two separate forums. You're right, I think I'm being overly precious about something that's generally quite straightforward. Washers are the way.

I have never heard nor followed that rule. I have worked on "floater frames" where the are was above, even with, and below the top surface of the stretched art over the past 40+ years or so.

Regarding the use of a premilled moulding as a way of lifting/shimming the stretched art off of the base of the moulding, that seams to be a rather costly method of doing so, vs raw wood strips, metal washers, or sections of hollow tubing(or wood dowel) over a wood screw.

[RobM]

I find a moulding that is the depth i need to raise the canvas and just cut 50mm strips placed where i screw it to the frame so only use about half a meter of moulding depending on how many screws are used.

This is very handy middle ground, saves greatly on a whole frame, thank you Dave.

[RobM]

Lions supply canvas offsets from 0-32mm in height.

You sound like a man fed up of my slew of basic questions Don't blame you.

But the height of the clips isn't so much the issue, than the offset distance if fitting from the inner canvas to the inner of the frame, or am I missing something?

[RobM]

You sound like a man fed up of my slew of basic questions Don't blame you.

But the height of the clips isn't so much the issue, than the offset distance if fitting from the inner canvas to the inner of the frame, or am I missing something?

...unless I fasten them from back to back of course.

I'll shut the door behind me...

[Justintime]

You sound like a man fed up of my slew of basic questions Don't blame you.

But the height of the clips isn't so much the issue, than the offset distance if fitting from the inner canvas to the inner of the frame, or am I missing something?

No! I was just trying to give a quick answer but yes you're right. I can see how offsets wouldn't work. Theframer's answer sounds pretty sensible.
A while ago I bought a little set of things for just this predicament but then couldn't find the right sized screws in time for the deadline, so they sit on my shelf of other interesting purchases, maybe one day I'll get to use them.

[Justintime]

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