Mirror's

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Johnny9
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Mirror's

Post by Johnny9 »

Guys,

I'm making mirror's as well as picture framing, now I will be using 4mm mirror & probably a mdf backing, but I've heard it's best to fix the mirror in the frame using a glue or sealant & then the backing mdf....

Any help if this is true & what products......

Also I've heard colouring the inside rebate of the frame in black helps with the clarity of the mirror????

Cheers

Johnny.
markw

Post by markw »

Painting the rebate black - or applying a black linen tape does give a more professional finish to the frame - especially if you are using unbevelled mirror glass. It stops the inside of the rebate showing as barewood - if the mirror is bevelled you don't get this problem but I still black the rebate because I think it looks better that way.

If you are producing standard size mirrors then you can buy bevelled mirrors at almost the same cost as cutting up sheets. Would use 3mm glass for smaller sizes - 4mm for large mirrors. Few dabs of holt melt glue will hold the mirror in place - backing board will do the rest.

Always advise my customers to hang mirrors on plates - not wire. When the mirror tips slightly forward it foreshortens the image + mirrors can be heavy - plates are safer and if you have a deep enough rebate reverse plates can be very effective.
Grahame Case

Post by Grahame Case »

Johnny9 wrote: mirror's
just having to restrain The Mother from setting the apostrophe police on you..

She is the kind of person who shouts at cars for driving in the bus lane.. explains a lot really.

it is okay, she shall be locked up safe in her padded cell until Monday at 9am.
Not your average framer
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Post by Not your average framer »

You can easily black the inside of the rebate with a black marker pen.
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Odems
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Post by Odems »

I delivered many hanger-sets #5 and now the newer #6 in my country. Never received a negative respond. But it's a matter of combination between the thickness of the mould and the weight too. My systems can hold over 25 kg's but if the mould is to thin, it will torque. I also produced specials in the past for production of large number of mirrors with the same dimensions. With that system the weight of the mirror "stands" at the mould below and the 1.25 mm wire connected at 4 points.
avantime
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Post by avantime »

Mark

You mention a few dabs of hot melt - is that for bevelled mirrors to centre up on frame. I make many mirrors, with flat glass, and it's not something we do. Or is it to hold glass in more firmly?

Regards

Hugh
osgood

Post by osgood »

I would never use any sort of glue to hold a mirror in a frame. I have had to replace broken mirrors that have been glued in and they are a PITA.

I have made a number of 6 mm mirrors in frames up to 8ft x 4ft and they have been held in the frames using normal fixing methods.

I really don't understand why glue would even be considered.

Large mirrors can be hung with wooden cleats or 'Hangman' hangers. Smaller ones can be hung with 'Wall Buddies', or SuperSoftstrand wire, provided the frame is in an appropriate sized moulding.

Mark,
What are 'rebate reverse plates'? I haven't seen them in any suppliers catalogues down here.
markw

Post by markw »

Hot melt glue - it only needs a few small dabs to hold the mirror in place - Osgood I agree its a PITA if the mirror has to be replaced and theirs masses of glue. Reverse plates - same as standard mirror plates but the way it hangs is reversed. (should call it picture plate part no 622 Lion catalogue)
avantime
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Post by avantime »

I agree osgood (never agreed with an aussie before - other than the better team won in 2003!!! :D ) I only use standard fixings - I do about 2-400 mirrors a month.


(Oh! And 2007 too!!)
Not your average framer
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Post by Not your average framer »

I would encourage some of the newer framers, to look into the potential for selling mirrors.

Don't go over board and tie up too much money in them, but be aware how they can work for you, by turning dead stock and scrap into sales. The great thing about mirrors is that everyone expects mirrors to be framed in all sorts of old dead stock mouldings, which many of us turn back into cash as mirrors. Lets face it, so many of us make up mirrors to clear old stock, that most people think thats the way it's meant to be.

Check out the Simons clearance stuff at the next Spring Fair too!
kev@frames
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Post by kev@frames »

quote NYAF Don't go over board and tie up too much money in them

I've got just under 100 4mm bevelled mirrors all over the place here :(
seemed like a good buy (the price was right) but then it came to finding a place for them all, some of them are 48x36 inch :(
Was going to be a "mental mirror sale".... sigh. well at least there isn't much money tied up, and we only broke two this week moving them about ...grrr

Re Grahams apostrophe post:
I once saw a vinyl banner sign, at a double glazing place selling framed mirrors, and it was spelled Mirrow's with the apostrostrophe*

*Catastropic Apostrophe.
Johnny9
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Post by Johnny9 »

Not your average framer wrote:You can easily black the inside of the rebate with a black marker pen.

When you say a black marker pen, which sort & how far up the rebate should I go???

I was going to use unbevelled mirrors....


Also, my apologies for the use of the '
Johnny9
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Post by Johnny9 »

Not your average framer wrote:You can easily black the inside of the rebate with a black marker pen.

When you say a black marker pen, which sort & how far up the rebate should I go???

I was going to use unbevelled mirrors....


Also, my apologies for the use of the '
Johnny9
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Post by Johnny9 »

I was also going to hang then using double D Ring & No4 Cord....

Comments please..... :D
osgood

Post by osgood »

Johnny9,
The face of the rebate is the part that should be blackened. The surface that is facing the mirror!
It reflects black in the mirror edge, which looks better than when not black!

I'm not sure what size the mirror is, but whatever size it is, I would not recommend using cord. Personally I hate cord with a vengeance and will not use it on anything under any circumstances.
osgood

Post by osgood »

avantime wrote:I agree osgood (never agreed with an aussie before - other than the better team won in 2003!!! :D ) I only use standard fixings - I do about 2-400 mirrors a month.


(Oh! And 2007 too!!)
avantime,
You need to be very careful. Agreeing with an Aussie is not something you should be publicising to your 'Pom' friends up there! They might give you a hard time! :wink: :wink:

The Ashes is a very important contest between our countries. I think we are ahead overall, aren't we???

400 mirrors a month is a lot. I guess you must be into mass production to do that many!
Johnny9
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Post by Johnny9 »

If not cord, which hanging system would you recommend for mirrors for a 1000mm x 800mm?
Nothing too technical, just a easy & strong hanging system & where I can get them from....

cheers....
osgood

Post by osgood »

SuperSoftStrand wire, Wallbuddies, wooden cleats or Hangman cleat system. I don't know which suppliers up there would have those, but some of the other UK framers will be able to guide you or perhaps you could contact your normal suppliers and ask them?
ross
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Post by ross »

We use/recommend the Secure T hanging system brackets for hanging large mirrors - probably anything over 1000mm in length

We use cord with appropriate D-Rings/brackets for the smaller mirrors - have never had any problem with cord

Regarding the mirror itself, do you distinquish between silver back and vinyl back mirrors - or are they all vinyl back. In Brisbane , vinyl back mirrors are dearer but we recommend them from a safety point of view for any mirror larger than 600 x 600mm - this was based on a recommendation by our glass representative some years ago

All mirrors we make are 4mm, unless a bevel greater than 20mm is required when we go to a 6mm thickness

Ross
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Post by Not your average framer »

kev@frames wrote:quote NYAF Don't go over board and tie up too much money in them
Hi Kev,

This was advice offered to new framers. I think 100 mirrors might be a little too many for a new framer. :shock:

What I was trying to suggest is that new framers should give it a try with a few first and see what works for them.
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