Hanging large frames with steel wire.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 9:15 pm

Sorry, Ormond. Not paying proper attention!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 9:19 pm

Now you gotta KISS him!

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 9:22 pm

XXXX

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 9:38 pm

Moglet wrote:XXXX

Shhhhhhhh, not so loud, my wife is in the room!!!

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:04 pm

Purely platonic!

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:09 pm

Moglet wrote:Purely platonic!

Oh noooo, I just can't cope with rejection!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:12 pm

Hey! Are you two flirtin'?

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:23 pm

About as much as you're stirrin'...

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:45 pm

Dang, caught....

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:49 pm

Your rugby team didn't get it, but you could do with one!

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:51 pm

Not your average framer wrote:They've got this stuff in several different sizes, but the one I've seen has a breaking strain of 220 Kg.

I agree that you will have to go outside the picture framing industry to find something stronger. I forgot about sailboats, that would be a good place to look.

The reality of a 220kg cable, is to max out on a 55kg frame. If you look at the hanging of those huge paintings in museums ( the room size paintings) they are hung on forged steel brackets and not from cable.

Not your average framer · Sun 23 Mar, 2008 10:58 pm

The difficulty with the wooden cleats, or using strap hangers onto individual wall mounted plate hooks, is that the overwelming number of customers I get don't want to know about screwing the necessary bits to the wall and being responsible for any consequences which may arise.

Also I will do almost anything to avoid drilling holes in someone elses wall. If the premises are rented and the landlord has not given permission, I can be sued. If anything unforseen happens I can be sued.

If they want it strung with a really strong wire, sure why not. As long as I know that it's strong enough and fit for purpose, I'm happy!

BTW, having got the Lion super crimpers, I can assure those who haven't tried them that they will deliver the necessary crimping force to produce secure crimps in far tougher crimp materials than just copper or brass.

Not your average framer · Sun 23 Mar, 2008 11:05 pm

Hi Jerry,

I would not even consider using anything like this to hang something weighing 55Kg. In the case of such a job I would tell the customer to get a builder involved so that the job could be permanently fastened to the wall and that the suitability of the strength of the wall could be determined by an expert.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sun 23 Mar, 2008 11:22 pm

Moglet wrote:Your rugby team didn't get it, but you could do with one!

My Rugby team (adopted) got the GRAND SLAM!

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 1:14 am

Not your average framer wrote:The difficulty with the wooden cleats, or using strap hangers onto individual wall mounted plate hooks, is that the overwelming number of customers I get don't want to know about screwing the necessary bits to the wall and being responsible for any consequences which may arise.

That does pose a problem, especially in a rental, but if they are in a rental and have severe restrictions on what they can do to the walls, what on earth are they buying huge mirrors or art for in the first place?

The consequences of a few small holes in most walls are not that big a deal really. Usually very easy to fix when the art comes down!

Reminds me of those customers who come in and want a print magically placed between two sheets of glass, without any hardware showing and done so that it is removeable and it also need to be hung two inches away from the wall with no hardware!

I'm afraid 'magic' is not one of my strong points!
'Miracles'....well that's something else!

Grahame Case · Post by **Grahame Case** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 9:45 am

NYAF, that is all well and good, but you then have to consider how to hang the wire on the wall... Picture hooks were never designed to take that weight, i predict they will just FAIL - if you are using something it'd be best to use something like this

The Crofter · Post by **The Crofter** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 10:46 am

NYAF, you seem to be caught between a rock and a hard place. If you are taking responsibility for hanging the frame then you must use fasteners that are capable of doing the job. If your customers will not let you do this then how do they expect you to achieve this ?.

Which wall fasteners are you thinking of using ?.

Not your average framer · Mon 24 Mar, 2008 6:00 pm

The Crofter wrote:Which wall fasteners are you thinking of using ?.

I'm not, I don't drill holes in other peoples walls. You never know what is gonna happen when you drill into someone's wall. So sorry, someone else's problem, I just do the framing.

Odems · Post by **Odems** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 6:56 pm

1. Proper pressing crimpers.
Be sure the wire in the crimper crosses the other end and it's as strong as an elephant.

2. a 1.25 mm wire.
Can hold over 200 KG's but a frame of 55 KG's will torque the wooden moulds.

3. The best solution.
Is to make a combination of the well known plates to let stand the frame and an adjustable wire to adjust the angle with hanging.

My pre-posted mirror-schedule is not applicable for this 55 KG's.....

Framer Dave · Post by **Framer Dave** » Mon 24 Mar, 2008 8:08 pm

I realize I am running the risk of incurring a great wrath here, but I'll go ahead anyway...

If you're so concerned about the wire that you need to look into aircraft cable and crimping, or welding or soldering, that tells me that maybe you shouldn't be using wire at all. You may be able to find high-strength wire or cable and a very strong tie-off method, but consider what happens to the frame itself.

A heavy frame with wire will cause great forces to pull in on the sides of the frame, causing the sides to want to bow in. The top and bottom will want to bow put. All of this puts a great deal of stress on the corners and could eventually cause them to fail completely.

Forget the wire and use a wireless hanging system such as D-rings, Z-bar, French cleats or something similar. All the forces will be vertical along the side rails of the frame, rather than pulling in on the sides. In the long term it's a much better solution.

And yes, your customer will have to measure, but you can point out that it may take a few more minutes, but it will only have to be done once, and the frame will always hang straight on the wall. To make it easier, I'll put a note on the back indicating the horizontal separation of the hanging hardware and the distance from the top of the frame it should be placed in the wall. Saving a few minutes of measuring will be much appreciated.