Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
I've read the cigarette card thread and looked at the Grumble to increase my knowledge of how to mount playing cards or cigarette cards.
We have a customer who has some vintage 1950s cards that he wants Conservation framed. No adhesive on the cards and only the front showing.
So we have created a mount sandwich, with reverse bevel in the 54 apertures and a 10mm mount strip between each card. Thankfully we now have Val to to do that for us.
We tried flipping it over and of course all the cards fell out. I think we may have to increase the mount strip to 20mm and then use ATG tape on the reverse of the strips to trap the cards in the aperture. The 20mm should leave enough space to keep any adhesive tape away from the cards.
Does anyone else have any sensible suggestions as to how it might otherwise be achieved? We don't want to sandwich it between glass or styrene.
Rolf
Rolf Lawson GCF “I am playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order.” Eric Morecambe
pelican-picture-framing
How about a Melinex overlay - one large sheet with ATG around each card (no closer to the cards than 1/8" and no further away than 1/4")which falls under the separating strips. (3m 415 tape is good - from Lion or PEL. 3M 889 is better but just try finding any!)
You could of course make a small overlay for each card - like This but without the bottom layer of melinex - so not encapsulated, but overlayed -you could encapsulate but the chances are the cards themselves are not on acid free paper so you would not want to trap that inside an encapsulated package.
It would also allow the whole card to be shown
The Melinex is burnished on to the ATG - you can't do that with mount board; the cards could slip on to it, in fact I think there's a good chance they would.
5mm fillet tape is good for cigarette card arrays, specially the double sided (cut back and front)where you have, say only 10mm between apertures.
It claims to be acid free on the box.
If your customer can stand it you can cut three mount layers, one to surround the cards and keep them in place, and the ones front and back to overlap by (say) 1mm. However with glass (or styrene, if considering the weight in big ones, like 50 arrays) it makes quite a thick sandwich of materials -9 mm or 10mm if you are using tru-vue. so it needs a decent rebate.
Plus there is the consideration of hanging something with a glass back getting broke by the picture hook (or hooks) so styrene is pretty useful for the back.
kev@frames wrote:
Plus there is the consideration of hanging something with a glass back getting broke by the picture hook (or hooks) so styrene is pretty useful for the back.
Wallbuddies would solve that problem - but the customer here does not want to see both sides of the cards.
Although, there is another system that I am expecting to arrive from USA this week that looks even better. When I get them and try them out, I will post info and an opinion on them.
You can get them in UK under a different name 'hangesee/hangesee/hangezee/hangeeze - search this forum for one of those words by me and you'll find supplier details.
birdman wrote:Does anyone else have any sensible suggestions as to how it might otherwise be achieved? We don't want to sandwich it between glass or styrene.
Hi Rolf,
How about this. Cut a normal multi-aperture front mount and back this with a reverse cut multi-aperture mount which allows room for all the cards to drop into place against the front mount.
Drop all the cards in place and then drop all the fall outs which came out of this rear mount back into the apertures which they came out of. The fall outs will hold the cards in place. Now tape the fall outs in place.
?