Cutting V Grooves
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- Posts: 51
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Cutting V Grooves
Hi team
I have a Keencut Ultimat Matcutter and need to cut a V groove that is in the fitness of things.
Once I decide where I want the groove, I cut the mat in the normal way, turn the fall-out over and then trim the bevel on all 4 sides. The result is a bit furry especially at the ends.
I fit the resultant mat back into the original mat, tape it from the back and inspect. I'm always disappointed so don't proceed with the next step to cut the opening for the art work.
What is the secret to getting a groove that is uniform, non furry and straight as an arrow.
I'm using a new blade every time.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
I have a Keencut Ultimat Matcutter and need to cut a V groove that is in the fitness of things.
Once I decide where I want the groove, I cut the mat in the normal way, turn the fall-out over and then trim the bevel on all 4 sides. The result is a bit furry especially at the ends.
I fit the resultant mat back into the original mat, tape it from the back and inspect. I'm always disappointed so don't proceed with the next step to cut the opening for the art work.
What is the secret to getting a groove that is uniform, non furry and straight as an arrow.
I'm using a new blade every time.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
That's how I do it. To get rid of the furry edges I give them a light stroking with a fine sanding block. The width of the groove is critical for best results.
My cutter (C&H) has a stop for v-gooves and I use a drill (for want of anything better to check the guide at the far end to ensure the cut is perfectly parallel. It takes a bit of fine tuning to get the width just right.
When you do the reverse trim, don't start at the edge. Back off a bit.
One vital thing. The drop-out must go back in the same way it came out.
My cutter (C&H) has a stop for v-gooves and I use a drill (for want of anything better to check the guide at the far end to ensure the cut is perfectly parallel. It takes a bit of fine tuning to get the width just right.
When you do the reverse trim, don't start at the edge. Back off a bit.
One vital thing. The drop-out must go back in the same way it came out.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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V Grooves
Thanks alot for your responses, I thought the furry edges was something that only happened to me. It's good to know there are others out there with furry edges.
Re: V Grooves
I do have 'furry edges', but my vee grooves don't!cmaclean wrote:It's good to know there are others out there with furry edges.
I think it's the combination of Alphamat and a Gunnar that prevents furry vee grooves!
Place a scrap piece of mount 3cm against the fall-out getting the v-groove so that the blade cuts into this first and then the real v-groove - this takes up the tension of the blade and ensures a straight cut with no slight 'tension' curve at the start of the cut. I don't get wooly edges with my keencut Laser if the blade is new but if it does happen because of a used blade I just run my finger along it - yes my fingers are rough! Also the vacuum cleaner and brush attachment cleans out the groove quite satisfactorily
Alan
Gawd I really do not remember the last time I did a V groove, but when I did it was a case of At night I lock the door and no-one else can see
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I don't really understand why you are getting furry edges. I have been forced to get my Keencut Ultimat out of retirement and for the past 6 weeks have cut v-grooves as described in the manual. ie. cut out an aperture at the distance you want your v-groove. Turn the cut out piece over, set the top bar/stop on the keencut to v-groove, place the cut out piece in face side up and cut each side in turn. Turn face down and re-insert into aperture of mount. Tape the back and then cut your final aperture.
You could try removing the scrap/support mountboard from under the clamping bar before cutting the v-groove, this might give you a cleaner cut. You could also try moving the v-groove stop bar a little to decrease the width of the v-groove.
If all else fails ring keencut, they have really great customer service.
Another small tip gleaned from personal experience, make sure you have the sharp side of the blade towards the board and don't try to cut flock wallpaper!!
You could try removing the scrap/support mountboard from under the clamping bar before cutting the v-groove, this might give you a cleaner cut. You could also try moving the v-groove stop bar a little to decrease the width of the v-groove.
If all else fails ring keencut, they have really great customer service.
Another small tip gleaned from personal experience, make sure you have the sharp side of the blade towards the board and don't try to cut flock wallpaper!!
Giclee is just a term for a little squirt making lots of money
Remember conservation Framing is an art, for everything else there's Araldite
Remember conservation Framing is an art, for everything else there's Araldite
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Sat 20 Sep, 2003 9:11 am
- Location: Wellington New Zealand
- Organisation: Borderline Framing
- Interests: Grand-children, Gardening, Walking, Technology
- Location: Wellington, New Zealand - Aotearoa
V-Groovers
Hi to all V-groovers out there.
Thanks for all your suggestions and tips - I cracked in the end and now I'm an expert.
Three cheers
Campbell
Thanks for all your suggestions and tips - I cracked in the end and now I'm an expert.
Three cheers
Campbell