Is a vaccuum press the right way to go?

[prospero]

Well.... in theory it is simple, but I can forsee a few niggles. I should add that I have never done a frame exactly like this.

Making a subframe is easy enough. Getting neat edges is not so easy. When you fix the board to the subframe it will not run exactly flush to the edge of the subframe. I know it should, but no matter how accurate you try to cut it it won't. Sods Law. If you were doing pure woodwork, it would be an easy matter to make the board slightly larger and run a router with a laminate trimmer around. Can't do this with the poster mounted though. The edge will get chewed up and you can't sand it. that's why I suggested the outer frame, which would make it neater and protect the edge of the poster.

I'm not sure whether you would get problems with expansion on the bigger sizes. I would varnish the back of the board to seal it. This should prevent bowing... The only way to make sure is to make one and see.

All in all, I think the thin board/subframe method is much better than using big thick sheets of MDF. More work, but the finished product will be lighter and more stable. I would make a few exp examples and watch them for a few weeks for bowing/twisting or other nasties. For an outer frame, some square ash maybe 40mm deep and 20mm wide would look good. Even better if you can get it ready finished in black.

[Moglet]

Hi BB,

Check out these floater mouldings from Lion.

They're intended to take drymounted posters and the like, and come both in raw ash and a variety of prefinishes. I saw them on display at the Spring Fair, and they looked very effective!

The 'sill' is 16mm (overall width 20mm), and come in both 30mm and 50mm overall depths. The sill is recessed 10mm below the top of the moulding.

It's worth noting that Lion mouldings look very well "in the flesh."

[avantime]

The router and laminate trimmer sounds a good way to tidy up the edges as Prospero says. Or a belt sander could be used. I'd try Axminster.

As a matter if interest what is the deepest material that will fit in a Hotpress?

[WelshFramer]

Hi BB,

Check out these floater mouldings from Lion.

I use a fair bit of that for prints on canvas and paper - stick them down to 5mm Fomecore; cover with a laminate; trim to size and stick them in the floater frame. Quick and easy and looks very effective.

[Martin Harrold]

In many cases like this, the print is mounted oversize onto a panel or board of some kind. Then, the normal route is to lay it face down on a cutting mat and trim with a scalpel. Problems are that the paper 'burr' goes the wrong way, and the scalpel can snag into the edge of the panel material. That's a particular problem with foam board.

Sorry for what is a pretty blatant commercial (not our normal style when contributing to the Forum), but I think that it will help the discussion to mention a beautifully made tool, called the Imedger, created and manufactured by a clever engineer in USA.

It simply slides onto the panel and is guided by the edge. One push and the hidden blade trims the surplus paper neat and flush. Four strokes and the job's done.

We demoed it for the first time on our booth at the recent Sign show and sold several off the stand - and none have been returned, so it must work!

It uses standard steel back razor blades and has an introductory price of £69-00. It will be mentioned in the June Lion Update. Our part number is 6670.

Imedger is copyright Jack Durham, 2008.

[Moglet]

... trim to size and stick them in the floater frame.

Hi Mike,

What adhesive do you use to stick the FC into the floater frame?

[Merlin]

Hi Áine
We too use a lot of LION Floater Frame with FC and we use PVA to stick it down with.

Placing a weight on top and leaving it overnight..

[WelshFramer]

Hi Mike,

What adhesive do you use to stick the FC into the floater frame?

Just the same PVA wood glue I use to join mitres. Unlike Merlin, I use a fast-setting PVA and it's stuck in 5 minutes.

[Moglet]

Thanks, chaps!