morso cutting lengths

[stripethespringer]

Help....

Just bought all framing equipment inc Morso, but struggling to get measurements right for frames...clearly not the brightest spark!!

Is there a table or anything that helps?

for example, if I am cutting for the artwork of 30cm x 30cm using 25mm moulding inc the rebate what would I see the scale to on the Morso.

likewise what would I use for a standard 8 x 6 frame for a 25mm moulding

thanks

steve

[Roboframer]

for example, if I am cutting for the artwork of 30cm x 30cm using 25mm moulding inc the rebate what would I see the scale to on the Morso.


steve

Either do the maths yourself (300+25+25) and set zero on the sliding scale to 350mm on the fixed scale or let the Morso do the maths for you and set 25mm on the sliding scale to 300mm on the fixed scale.

In my case that would be plus a bit, to err on the side of caution.

But don't include 'the rebate' just measure the back of the moulding against the small vertical scale.

[The Crofter]

Just two measurements you need to know.

Artwork length or breadth +2mm or 3mm to cater for any glass size variations.

Place the moulding on the morso as if to cut and slide it so you can read from the small vertical scale to the right of the cutter head. Measure the amount of moulding that is in contact with the scale. This will always be less than the overall moulding width to allow for the rebate. For example this may be 20mm on a 25mm moulding.

Set the main scale to the artwork length (302mm or 303mm) and then slide the small scale to 20mm.

I always make the rebate measurement after trimming the end so that any moulding damage will not cloud the real measurement. Be aware that any small variations in your calculations will be doubled and can lead to an over or undersized frame.

Incidently I always cut my moulding after cutting and measuring the glass. Should guarantee a good fit. The slight over size cut will be determined by your machine and how you adjust the scales so this is something you will determine for yourself.

[Moglet]

I think the term "artwork" in the context it has been used in a couple of places in this thread may be a bit confusing to new framers. To clarify:

Artwork = the piece of art being framed (either without a mount).

For sizing:

Artwork length + top & bottom mount borders (if any) = Length

Artwork width + left & right mount borders (if any) = Width

Final dimensions are Length x Width, and are commonly referred to as the 'glass size'. The frame (rim) size should be slightly larger to allow for minor variations over the glass size, and to allow for any expansion of the frame contents.

Per the previous posts, measure the width of the back of the moulding against the small vertical scale on the Morso. (It can be easier to read the measurement if you have mitred the end of the moulding prior to offering it up to the scale.)

Note: Do not automatically assume that every length of a given moulding will have the same width! There can be slight variations, even between lengths in a single pack.

Typically, when cutting the individual sections of moulding 2mm is added to the "glass size" length/width, although Roboframer's tip about leaving a little extra is a good one. If you are framing a canvas, you should add a little extra to the allowance.

[The Crofter]

Morso do supply a manual with each machine but I guess you have purchased second hand. If I can find my copy I will pass one on (no promises !). Seem to remember Morso used to have them on their website but cannot find anything now.

Morso are at:

http://www.morso-guillotines.dk/

Not only can the rebate width vary but the height can as well. Always check the rebate supports are snug when chopping a new length.

[prospero]

A common mistake is to forget that a mitred piece of moulding has two ends. Sounds silly, but I've done it myself. That's why the scale on the sliding stop has the increments x2.

On some moulding it can be tricky to get an accurate reading of the width of the back using the scale on the Morso. They can have a little 'step' inwards or even slope. It may just be <1mm but any variation is multplied by 2. A vernier guage is handy here. Ones with a digital readout are good. Personally. I like to have the glass/board/canvas/whatever on the bench when cutting frames so I can offer up the lengths to double check and fine-tune the measurements if needed. This is particually important with stretched canvases. It's often necessary to work from the sight size rather than the rebate size. A wide rebate will often cover too much of the edge of the painting. More noticeable on small works. A 7x5" can become a 6x4" in the frame. Another thing with canvases is not to fit them too tight in a frame. They may need re-tensioning later on and this can make a big one grow quite a lot. Best to leave a 3-4mm gap all around and put in some little spacers (cork, foamcore) to gently hold the canvas in place. On sone really big canvases I have even had to rip the rebate wider or engineer a slip to give 15mm+ rebate width.

[bexwell]

I bought my Morso second hand from a framer who was retiring and used to teach framing, he showed me a way to measure with a mirror, the mirror is fixed so that looking down the Morso from above you can see the underside of the cutting table, you cut the first mitre then offer the moulding up to the picture/mount and mark on the underside of the moulding with a pencil where the inner corner of the second mitre should be, place the moulding back onto the Morso and with everything positioned as for the final cut line your pencil mark up with the apex of the v on the Morso cutting table, then set the measuring stop against the first mitre you cut, move the head out to where you want the first cut and cut as usual, he gave me a demo and it worked every time. Hope this description makes sense. It only works if you line everything up with the blades etc positioned as for the final cut, you also need a light to see the mirror I suppose you could also just measure the length you want the inside dimension to be and mark that with a pencil.

[Roboframer]

Hi Bexwell,

All that, to me, is like drawing lines on mounts when you have a mountcutter with guides and stops designed to prevent you having to do that.

By the time youv'e made your first pencil mark and lined it up on the morso - I'll be pinning my frame.

The Morso really is a simple machine and sometimes I wonder how the frell some people cope with CMCs.

[Moglet]

Is it possible that the sliding scale is missing from Bexwell's machine? (It was second-hand).

[Roboframer]

Is it possible that the sliding scale is missing from Bexwell's machine? (It was second-hand).

Not going by this line ....

then set the measuring stop against the first mitre you cut

and hopefully not going by a morso bought from someone who used to teach framing

[bexwell]

Is it possible that the sliding scale is missing from Bexwell's machine? (It was second-hand).

No it's all there and complete and going strong for a 34 year old machine, I do actually cut my lengths in the conventional way, I just mentioned it as an alternative for those with a problem or for those days we all have when nothing is going right, it's also useful if like me you have an elderly Morso with imperial measurements and you need for whatever reason to work in metric.

Sorry terminology wrong I meant the sliding scale.

[Roboframer]

I've been mis-quoted - I'm outraged!

The method of marking the moulding can be handy when you have to cut a length larger than you can set the stop for. But I just carry the mark I make on the rebate, to the top of the frame - no need for mirrors and lights.

[kev@frames]

Hey Bexwell, you have a classic, ours is 34 years old too - Well, most of it is....
I also have a manual.

Maybe with a nod to morso (etc) to make sure they dont mind we can add manuals for common machinery in the Oracle?
what do you guys think?

[Moglet]

I think it would be a great idea to have manuals for older equipment on the Oracle (PDF format, presumably). I think the suppliers might welcome the proposition, too, as it would save them the time to forward manuals to requestors.

[bexwell]

I've been mis-quoted - I'm outraged!

Oops Sorry!

Moros actually sent me a mannual by post when I asked, they are really helpful but I'm sure they would be happy to save the postage on all the requests they get if a mannual could be posted on the forum.

[The Crofter]

Annoying isn't it when you have to scour the globe for information that should be posted on the companies own website.... Happens a lot though but I have no idea as to why.