Box frame for cricket bat.

The Catcher · Post by **The Catcher** » Mon 10 Apr, 2006 11:55 am

I'd like some advice regarding making up a box to house a cricket bat.
I am considering using Arqadia's framebox-layering about 3 of the 1inch on top of each other.

What has been found to be the best way to make up a box to hold something of this weight? I am going to use the clips from Lion, as has been discussed on another thread.

Any feedback on this would really be appreciated, as this is the first cricket bat that I am about to frame.

Regards,

George.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Mon 10 Apr, 2006 5:04 pm

Arqadia's framebox is not very strong at all. I would just use half by two inch battens, either fabric wrapped or lined with mountboard and concealed with a narrow mount the same colour.

Not your average framer · Mon 10 Apr, 2006 9:38 pm

Hi,
I found Arqadia Framebox was a pain in the neck! There's a lot of messing around to get it to cut cleanly on the morso and I'm yet to find a first class way of joining it on the underpinner. I ending up joining it in an old stanley framers vice with pins through the sides or the joints. I stopped using as soon as I used up my initial stock, do I miss it? Not a lot!
I also would do the same as Roboframer, plain ordinary timber batterns are so much less hastle. I underpin them from both front and back, easy to do, smart looking, nice and solid too! I fix them to the rest of the frame with Fletcher multi-points. In other cases requiring less depth, there's a good selection of flat pine mouldings in the Simon's catalogue which can be used side on with the rebate to take the backing board.
Cheers,
Mark

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Mon 10 Apr, 2006 11:24 pm

This is not exactly a cricket bat, but this is how a lined box can look.

The mount with its slip is JUST bigger than the battens, in your case these battens would be narrow side on. My width would be your depth.

The Catcher · Post by **The Catcher** » Tue 11 Apr, 2006 9:00 am

Thanks for the feedback John and Mark.

The framebox was just an idea, but I am going to use pine if I can get what I have in mind.

What is your recommendation with regard to the back, would mdf be sufficient to hold the bat? - or should I use something else.

George

Not your average framer · Tue 11 Apr, 2006 10:20 pm

Hi,
If the back is to support the weight of the cricket bat then it needs to be strong enough and stiff enough for the purpose. You will also need to consider how you will fix the back to the frame also!

Normal fixing methods such as framing points or tabs would not be my prefered option in this case. I think I would make the back out of something solid and substantial so that it would not distort over time with the weight and I would strongly consider fixing with screws. Masonite would be one possible choice - it's very solid indeed, and does not easily distort. Properly thought out fixing of the back will enable the box section to help keep it flat! Suitable hangers for such weight is another issue to consider too!
Cheers,
Mark

Not your average framer · Tue 11 Apr, 2006 10:24 pm

Roboframer,
Liked your picture! Looks the business! Can I ask what the moulding is?
Cheers,
Mark

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Tue 11 Apr, 2006 10:40 pm

Not your average framer wrote:Roboframer,
Liked your picture! Looks the business! Can I ask what the moulding is?
Cheers,
Mark

Of course you can ask - you can ask me anything actually - I'm an open book....

It is a brushed silver from D&J Simons, about 1" wide with a 1" rebate, black side and black lip - about 85p per foot. I can give you the ref tomorrow night. It is part of a range of the same brushed finish in gold and copper as well, lots of profiles and sizes. Arqadia do a similar range but the finish is not as good. There is a matching slip (not used here) Same finish is on Larson Juhl's 'radiance' range. The quality of finish on the Simons range is even better, and more consistent than the Larson Juhl range.

I love Simons - even if they are run like a sweet shop! (Sometimes)

The Catcher · Post by **The Catcher** » Wed 12 Apr, 2006 10:03 am

Thanks Mark,

I have found some nice looking pine at Homebase which will suit my needs, so I will make the box with that and then also use pine for the base which will be slightly recessed so the fixings will not be higher than the edge of the box.

The fixings for hanging will be the slot type made from brass.

Cheers

George

Not your average framer · Wed 12 Apr, 2006 7:22 pm

Hi John,

I agree, Simons supply me with more mouldings than anyone else and some of the new ones for 2006 are really classy too! I am intrigued by the sweet shop bit. I bet you knew that someone had to ask! O.K. why is Simons like a sweet shop?
Cheers,
Mark

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Wed 12 Apr, 2006 9:42 pm

Mark,

Had the day off today so have not got that moulding ref, but if you have their catalogue it should be easy to find from my description.

The 'sweet shop' description came from one of their own reps!

Not your average framer · Thu 13 Apr, 2006 9:59 pm

Hi John,

I have regular customers for ASH-1, 2, 5, 6 and 10. I also use a great filler which matches ash prefectly on the odd occasion when I need it. It's a two part resin filler called "Wudfil" and it's a creamy off white colour and can also be stained after sanding. I assume it's still available from where I got at Axminster power tools, who do a useful mail order catalogue.

I have my own versions of their BARN range using Ash-6 and Ash-10 which I stain with acrylic paints instead of woodstain my range of colours is different to theirs. The effect is much softer and very popular.

You know those bits of ash you cut around because of the little pitting marks in the machined finish - Well, when I cut around them I try to cut out a usable length so I can make ready-mades from them. I paint them with off-white acrylic and wipe it off after a couple of minutes, the extra paint in the pitting looks great and I put them straight in the window. They sell extremely quickly - I just can't get enough of them!

I also make up ready mades using their M0093 and M0094 ramin mouldings stained with a sand or light brown acrylic to get light oak and antique pine type colourings. This again gives a nice soft effect and does not highlight the flecks in the wood.

I also make up large chucky hand-finished stacked moulding frames with combinations such as 7676/0018 (outer) + 000J/0164 (middle) + 8816/0000 (inner + 6mm x 12mm spacer). I get a massive mark up out of quite a few Simons mouldings!
I wonder if anyone else is into hand-finishing, might be good for a new topic!
Cheers,
Mark

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Fri 14 Apr, 2006 6:31 pm

Ref for silver moulding above is 5410/7008.

Don't do as much hand-finishing as I used to - well, not as elaborate. Mainly simple woodstains/waxes to hilight grain. Love to get into serious gilding, but would need another workshop, not to mention more hours in the day!