Thanks and help with my new Morso

[SvenSvenson]

Thanks everyone for advice on collecting my Morso - it wasn't as heavy as I expected and it went in the back of my Honda CR-V OK. (Serial number 38456, by the way).

Couple of questions:

1. How do you fit the waste chute? The seller removed it in a flash but I can't see how it reattaches in such a way as to collect the chips.

2. Are the knives sharp? It came with 2 sets, both Morso (stamped Morso and 4-86 on one pair and 5-86 on the other). The set not on the machine has some definite chips and I'll send them to Lion ASAP for a sharpen/service as appropriate. The set on the machine seem sharp, but are leaving a ragged edge on the cut moulding, although they are cutting all the way through. I held a cloth over the blades (fingers well clear) and pulled it along and the cloth tore more that it was cut.

3. How do I measure the moulding? There the sliding scale with the 45-degree stop, and another scale that the seller said you read the width of the moulding from, but he
did go any further. I assume you have to apply the width to the length in some way to get the cut length.

4. Will Morso send me a manual if I pay/ask nicely?

Thanks,

Steve

[silvercleave]

Hi Steve , Congratulations and good luck to you for your future in framing

This part is thanks to Dermot who answered this question for someone else:

Send Morso the Serial number of your machine with your details and they will send on a set of instructions……..they are a great company… www.morso-guillotines.dk

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You will find the search part of this forum is full of information, and as quite a new comer myself have found it useful.

The rule measurement on the right of the Morso is simple, but a little difficult to put in to words, will search and try to find the right wording for you

Are you going to SGF09 in NEC?

regards

Ian

[WelshFramer]

1. How do you fit the waste chute? The seller removed it in a flash but I can't see how it reattaches in such a way as to collect the chips.

The purpose of the waste chute is allow the chips to bounce so that they distribute themselves evenly over the workshop floor.

I've had more success by dispensing with the chute and modifying a cardboard box so that it fits neatly under the machine.

[silvercleave]

Have tried the waste shute without success, put my morso on two blocks secured to a piece of chipboard, giving it more height by 3", the chops then drop down and can be shoveled out with a dustpan.

[prospero]

Hi Steve.

The measuring scale is quite cunning but simple. If you set the Zero on the top (sliding) scale to whatever on the long fixed scale it will measure a cut piece exactly that long on the outside. But when you are making frames you generally work to the rebate size. So mitre one end of the length, slide it over the scale that goes across the bed and read of the width of the back. Say it's 20mm. Then you set 20 on the sliding scale to the rebate size, say 300 on the fixed scale. If you notice on the fixed scale the increments are twice as big as they should be. 1mm is 2mm. This is because the moulding has a mitre on both ends. In other words, it adds on twice the width of the back of the moulding, so you get a pice 340mm long the outside - 300mm along the inside.

btw. The small cross-width scale is not all that easy to read sometimes and any errors are multplied x2. Some mouldings had a little chamfer or a rounded edge, or worse the inner face slopes. Sometimes you may want to work to the sight size- the entire width including the lip.
I use a digital vernier guage for a really accurate reading. They aren't all that dear and have many uses in the worshop.

Can't help you with the waste chute. Never had one apart from a carboard lash-up which has long since fell off.

If your blades are chipped the chips will need grinding out. Otherwise you get raised 'tramlines' down the cut which might affect the join integrity.

Happy Chopping.

[Tyto]

Hi Steve

Congrats on the new Morso they are are fantastic piece of kit. Did the waste chute come with a metal collection box and stand ? I bought a used one on ebay shortly after getting my Morso and I havn't had a single chip hit the floor since I fitted it, the only problem I have is I have to keep emptying the box!! I will be moving the morso shortly as I intend to lay a new floor and refit the workshop, I could take a photo to show how the chute attaches if that helps.

Peter

[Jonny2morsos]

If you turn the waste chute over you might find the instructions on the back (mine has).

Trouble is you then turn it back the right way and you can't read them any more!

If you are in any doubt about your blades get them re-sharpened there is no point in wasting expensive moulding or doing a bad job for the sake of the cost of a regrind. Also make sure your blades can be identified by you as your own blades. We had a local engineer engrave our post code on ours.

I tell you this because we bought a brand new set of blades and got back a set of c***pry chinese ones on one ocassion. We were eventually recompensed but it was a hassle we could have avoided.

John.

[Bill Henry]

I’ve never bothered with a chute, but mine isn’t against a wall, either. Periodically I just scoop up all the jetsam with a dust pan.

I was concerned that If I raised the Morsø a few inches, I would end up tripping on the darned platform, so I plunked the machine in the middle of the workspace with lots of room both right and left for long mouldings.

You can generally tell if the blades need sharpening by lightly drawing a finger from inside to out along the honed side of the blade. If you feel even the slightest burr, then it needs sharpening.

Steve described measuring quite well but I think he is talking about one with a vernier. I don’t have one on my Morsø, so my measuring is quite a bit simpler i.e. I read it directly off the scored lines on the table. Don’t forget to add an allowance when you're measuring from inside the rebate (or, rabbet, as we say in the civilized world). It is generally thought in the industry to be ~1/8” or ~3 mm.

[SvenSvenson]

Thanks everyone,

No box with the chute;still can't see how to attach it.

I think the knives on the machine could do with sharpening - they do leave a 'tramline' and looking closely, I can see a nick on the blade. I'll get the spare set serviced first and then the pair that are on it.

I'll investigate the measuring scale in daylight and sort out a box to catch the cuttings.

Regards,

Steve

[kev@frames]

if its the add-on chute with a lip on it, the lip simply hooks over the front panel and deposits the chips* out the back of the machine into a box or whatever. It goes in from the back, the groove is there to allow the operating pedal's rod to slide freely through the chute -which it often doesn't, it sometimes catches on the rod anf gets dislodged, falling back inside the machine casing if i remeber right. so you drill a 1.2 mm hole through the chute lip and machines panel in one and put a self tapper** in there.

If using the lift-it-up and collection tray method, its no big deal to make up, or get made up a foot pedal which still starts and stops at the same relative position to your foot to compensate for the height difference, and stops the arm wearing away the slots in the casing at the bottom of every down stroke. I think charnwood have a pedal like this fitted to their mitre machine (framers corner)

Tried that it all worked nice, except my staff didn't seem to get on very well with it. so we are back with the chute.***

*most of the chips.
**Or duct tape
*** and overflowing chippings boxes.

[gesso]

If you turn the waste chute over you might find the instructions on the back (mine has).

Make sure you take the chute off the morso first, Ive just done this and I couldn't hold the morso up above my head long enough to read it all!

[guzzijim]

Must be the start of the Morso season, I picked mine up on Friday, also did a deal on a 48” Fletcher mount cutter.
Think my stars are with me at the moment, sold three framed prints with minutes of arriving home on Friday, plus an old camera club member want me to frame prints for him in his new venture.

[Moglet]

Promising start to the year, GuzziJim! Long may it continue.

[SvenSvenson]

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

Got my spare blades back from Lion today and have just fitted them - big difference. (The blades that were on it are going for a sharpen tomorrow).

How precise do you have to be fitting the new blades? The manual (kindly sent by the manufacturer and which also arrived today) gives the impression that the positioning of the blades need to be accurate down the 1/00th mm - is that true or is it enough that they are aligned as accurately as possible by eye?

Thanks,

Steve

[DEEPJOY]

Hi Steve

Did you buy the manual or manage to get it free?
Would you mind giving me the contact information, as I am in need of a Morso manual.

[SvenSvenson]

Hi,

If you look at the 2nd message in this thread, the last paragraph tells you how to request a new manual. Just follow the link and then use the 'Contact us' section of their website.

I filled it in on Saturday, they emailed me for my address Monday, and the manual arrived Wednesday.

Regards,

Steve

[DEEPJOY]

f you look at the 2nd message in this thread, the last paragraph tells you how to request a new manual. Just follow the link and then use the 'Contact us' section of their website.

Hi Steve thanks for this.

Where is the serial number on the Morso?

Deepjoy

[kev@frames]

get the bottom of the blades as accurate as you can by eye, both have to be aligned at the point on the cutting edge.
I dont think you want to be interfering with putting metal straight edges in there, the blades are surprisingly easy to damage or "nick".
now move your head bach four inches and look down, you'll see the oil hole in the flat top of the machine above the transport lever/ratchet casting ... you serial number might be there

Unless of course someone has ground it off, filled it in with weld, and you have got a ringer. In which case we'll see you on Crimewatch
Have fun!
next year: welcome to "Morso Hip" ahh... another post coming on...

[DEEPJOY]

now move your head bach four inches and look down, you'll see the oil hole in the flat top of the machine above the transport lever/ratchet casting ... you serial number might be there

Thanks Kev

I'm not going to loose part of my manhood to those blades in search of this serial number am I? It's not a trick you are playing on me? I've been the pub as-well tonight!

Deepjoy