Framing a Trans

[Steven Yip]

Hi All,

A client has a trans that needs to be framed and I wonder what is the best posible way to secure the trans within the frame package? Is mounting the trans onto a DiBond a good option? Will the adhesive show through the translucency of the trans? With the nature of the trans, how would you hinge it?

Thank you.

Regards,
Steven Yip
Singapore

[The Jolly Good Framer #1]

I’m not sure I know what a Trans is. Could you explain a bit more about it please?

[Steven Yip]

it is those prints that are translucent and used in a lightbox. The base material it is printed on is kinda like cibachrome and it is extremely glossy too.

Steven

[John]

Hi Steven, welcome to the forum.

Thanks for clearing that up, I was trying to imagine how you would go about framing a transmission.

[gesso]

Trans = Transparency = Film

Is this a front-lit print or back-lit?

[Steven Yip]

This piece is printed to be back lit as the print is clear from the front and "blur" when viewed from the back. However, it is now to be framed like an ordinary C-Print. My main concern is how to hold up the trans in the frame package as it is large and thus heavy. Because of the glossy nature of the trans, it is almost impossible to have it "Flat" without mounting. If mounted, will the adhesive show through the front because of the "transparency" nature of the print?

Steve

[prospero]

What about a polyester enevelope? I take it it's something like a 5x4 or bigger....


btw. They used to be refered to as 'trannies', but nowadys that could lead to unfortunate misunderstandings.

[Keith Hewitt]

Hi Steven,

Nice to see you posting

Now that these wizz kids here understand "Trans" in Singlish ( Singapore English ! ) = "Trannie" in English - I hope you get the advice you seek.

There are a lot of very experienced framers on here - even a few from USA and OZ - so wait a bit and I'm sure others will post some helpful comments.

Oh and ....Welcome to the Framers Forum

I will be out your way in Nov - have to teach Joe Lim how to make proper Yorkshire Pudding.
I do get some strange requests!

[gesso]

Dont have time to go into all the pitfalls of your dilema on here give us a call

01603 460994

Mark

[gesso]

Sorry didnt read your location


read this

http://www.wilderphoto.com/mounting.pdf

[Moglet]

They used to be refered to as 'trannies', but nowadys that could lead to unfortunate misunderstandings.

"Come up to the lab....."

[gesso]

What about a polyester enevelope? I take it it's something like a 5x4 or bigger....


btw. They used to be refered to as 'trannies', but nowadys that could lead to unfortunate misunderstandings.

These type of prints are not really what they use to call trannies t
Trannies hey were the positive clear films that were processed films using the E6 developing process as opposed to the C41 negative film dev process.
there was a trend about twenty years ago to develop E6 type films through the C41 (and vici verci) to alter the colour cast of the film. C41 through E6 would give a greenish tint to skin tones and E6 through C41 would increase richness of the colours with an overall increase in warmth.......

the type of print you have was called a Cibachrome but now is called an Ilfochrome

I'ld like to dedicate this answer to Prospero without whom I would never of completed and sucessfully posted see his guidence on useing the Ctrl+ fascility on your keyboard.


by prospero on Tue Apr 07, 2009 2:43 am

"Ctrl+A selects the text you have written so far.

Ctrl+C copies it to clipboard.

So if it vanishes into cyberspace for any reason, you got a backup.

Ctrl+V to paste it back in again."


SEE HERE

http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.ph ... 834#p31834

[Steven Yip]

Hi Keith,

Thank you for introducing me to the Forum. This is my first post and I will continue to monitor the Forum as it is a rich resource for anyone who care about framing.

Be sure to remember to invite me to taste the Yorkshire Pudding when you r in SIngapore.

Hi Mark,

Thank you for the pdf file, it is very useful. For a while, I forgot about static mount technique. I used it quite a long time ago when framing Cibachrome prints. It was such a long time ago that I forgot about it. Your file has certainly rekindle my memory and it has given me renewed confidence to tackle this work. This is hugh, a 62" x 112" beast.

Thak you everyone for your contributions.

Regards,
Steven Yip

[gesso]

Hi steve

go back and read the file again as your print is a little on the large size to use that method.

It's been too long since I had a good Laksa!

Any jobs going in Singapore?

[MITREMAN]

Hi Gesso,
Good link with a great use of Filmoplast P90.

http://www.wilderphoto.com/mounting.pdf

Great tip from Prospero

by prospero on Tue Apr 07, 2009 2:43 am

"Ctrl+A selects the text you have written so far.

Ctrl+C copies it to clipboard.

So if it vanishes into cyberspace for any reason, you got a backup.

Ctrl+V to paste it back in again."

Now I will learn this to, At present I am trying to remember to work in word,spell check and cut and past in then tweak.

MITREMAN
“Knowledge is power”

[Roboframer]

Hi Gesso,
Good link with a great use of Filmoplast P90.

http://www.wilderphoto.com/mounting.pdf

I'm not that impressed with the info in that (photographer's) link. FP90 is not the best tape for hingeing - in fact any sort of 'tape' is not the best material.

Can be removed without water? Well that's probably correct - after a time you'll need solvents!

Never heard of a 'top centre' hinge before and would say that weight is not distributed and also 3-6" is far too wide for a hinge. Also not a good idea to hinge directly to a backing board - acrylic or otherwise, it's more liable to movement than an under-mount independant of it.

[gesso]

You'll find that these type of prints don't respond well to the normal correct way of hinging as the backing has a high polyester content therefor will resist water based adhesives. The p90+ (plus) is an excellent tape in these situations and offers one of the best ways of holding the print.

[MITREMAN]

As Gesso stated the size of this artwork 62”x112” would seem a little large for this method.

Gesso is correct in saying that these types of artworks do not respond to normal water based correct hinging methods. So P90plus would be an option, although considered a method of last resort, because it is not water-reversible, But it is said that it can be removed from most sound paper surfaces with water and Zest-it, I would considered this surface type to be quite stable with its high polyester content.

If it were more like a animation Cel and smaller I would consider using pocket corners and flanges.
It is again written that animation Cel conservators prefer to mount the Cels with a polyvinyl tape across the top so they swing, such tapes would be 3ms 810 and 811 range, although it is unlikely that these tapes will be removed later.

Adhesives are grouped into A,B, & C types, P90 or P90plus would be classed as a group B Acid-Free, Clear, Stable, Non-Staining Material, Not Water Reversible.(ref Conservation Framing by Vivian C. Kisler CPF GCF)

I hope this gives you a little incite to the P90 range although it dose help with the framing method.

Keep thinking boys this will be a good one to solve and see a finished frame.

MITREMAN

[gesso]

As an ex photographer this type of print base responded well to lighter fluid as a method of removing tapes from the reverse of the print, many fellow pro photographers(ex-photographers) also used lighter fluid to clean the image side from time to time if any blemish happened to appear (such as assistants grubby finger prints) but this was usually done by the printer or the photographer as experience was always required to do this due to the delicate nature of the surface.
I would like to add at this stage . the above method should ONLY be used on this type of print
If any framer is handling the more generally used Paper based paper, the starch paste and Japanese paper method or mounting corners is ALWAYS the best ways of mounting along with unbuffered rag board.

[MITREMAN]

Totally agree Gesso,

Always best to use water based tapes or starch and mulberry/Jap paper hinges

I haved used lighter fluid on many items as it evaporates and dose not stain great for removing sticking tape residue, (as of yet, i have not had the need to use it on this type of artwork, but have used it on acetates, also I have used the old type printing gastetner fluid some type of (Eythonel) can't remember the correct name.

Always best to do a small test before trying anything.

So many artworks looking like photograpths nowdays are not colour fast.

I have many times removed finger marks from the front of photos by rubbing a cotton wall bud with distilled water quite hard for no more than 3 Seconds and allowing to dry naturally,any longer and you will damaged the photo's surface.

It would be interesting to do a survey of framers favorite tapes and hinging methods, not just for Conservation and Museam standards which we should be aiming for.

Many jobs I have re-framed having to remove masking tape and sticky tape from other framers.

MITREMAN