Mounting a Cibachrome Print

[absolute framing]

Hi,

I have a Cibachrome print 16" x 20" to frame.
my plan is to use a conservation board for the window-mount and under-mount and fitting the print using
clear archival mounting corners (will be hidden by window-mount)

As a matter of interest, has anyone got an alternative method that they would use?

Looking forward to your replies

Cheers

stephen

[stcstc]

a comon method for theese types of prints would eb to dry mount them to either diabond or foamalux then use a window mount ove this

[Bill Henry]

I would give a very strong caution about trying to dry mount a Ciba/Ilfochrome print. The surfaces are more fragile than standard photos. Even the mildest heat is likely to cause the dreaded “orange peel” effect, so I would suggest you stay away from a heat press.

From a conservation standpoint, mylar or rag corner pockets are the best choice, but with a print that size, the image is not likely to remain completely flat.

If you positutely have to mount the image flat, I would suggest a cold process something like PMA (Positionable Mounting Adhesive). It is bit messier but much less likely to louse up the surface.

[stcstc]

sorry i ment using a cold press process not heat

[Roboframer]

Mylar or 'rag' mounting strips would be better than corner pockets as they hold the photo on all four sides.

There is also the static mount, which I've never tried but it sounds fun! Use a piece of plexiglass for your undermount, score an aperture in the release paper to the size of your photo and peel it off, lay (roll) your photo on to it, it has a plastic coating and therefore a static charge and will cling to the plexi - plus the release paper left behind acts as a sink mount.

[markw]

Thats a really novel approach to a tricky problem. Thanks Robo - will have to give that a try.

[absolute framing]

Thanks for that tip Robo- i think i'll give it a try.
Nice to put that dreded static to some good use

[gesso]

It's always inportant to remember that photographs have their own pH value.
Ciba's (now known as Ilfochromes) have a natural rating of 6.5 to 6.8( as long as they have been processed correctly) So it is best to find a archival board in the same range of pH value

[markw]

What disadvantage would there be if the board was of a higher pH?

[iantheframer]

It's always inportant to remember that photographs have their own pH value.
Ciba's (now known as Ilfochromes) have a natural rating of 6.5 to 6.8( as long as they have been processed correctly) So it is best to find a archival board in the same range of pH value

You will not find a board in this range as it is acidic and no manufacturer will make an acidic board

certain companies manufacture an unbuffered boards for photographic applications that do not venture too far into the alkaline side.

[gesso]

with the old cibachrome print any imbalance or change in the prints (dyes) pH level can overtime result in the alteration of it's chemical structure. Like many colour photographic prints the three dyes (cyan magenta and yellow) can react to changes in their environment at different rates.

However if the print you have is in fact an Ilfochrome you may want to contact this manufacturer for specific technical data directly

http://www.ilford.com/en/products/ilfochrome/clm1k.asp

In answer to a point raised by the great prosero, most dry mounting 'orange peel' issues with this type of print and others are a result of poor quality substrates such as card (even archival) (this is another bone of contention that needs to be weeded out in this business!). If mounted onto foamlite (foamex) dibond or aluminium the prints excellent surface will be maintained

I would also agree with Robo on mounting with mylar ( this is vertually the same material as the print itself)
If you dont cold mount / dry mount