Backing Board for use in a hotpress
Backing Board for use in a hotpress
I am looking for a cheap solution for a backing board to use in a drymount press one that doesn't show the orange peel effect, I use the diluted P.V.A method of adhesion any suggestions ? Please
Me again!!
I think that something cheap that also sorts out a problem is a bit of a contradiction of terms.
I have heard of the diluted PVA method - Pete Bingham described it in his regular column in The Picture Business. To me it seems like going to a lot of trouble and time to do a bad job.
You have asked this once and got nowhere, if I were you I would simply experiment, it's not advice on a method that you are seeking, but asource of cheap board. Speak to Lion framing supplies - if they don't have it it probably does not exist.
Colourmount do a thing called 'framers grey board' That's cheap! It's also nasty! I think they should remove the word 'Framers' from it.
Maybe that will work for you?
I think that something cheap that also sorts out a problem is a bit of a contradiction of terms.
I have heard of the diluted PVA method - Pete Bingham described it in his regular column in The Picture Business. To me it seems like going to a lot of trouble and time to do a bad job.
You have asked this once and got nowhere, if I were you I would simply experiment, it's not advice on a method that you are seeking, but asource of cheap board. Speak to Lion framing supplies - if they don't have it it probably does not exist.
Colourmount do a thing called 'framers grey board' That's cheap! It's also nasty! I think they should remove the word 'Framers' from it.
Maybe that will work for you?
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Hi CharlesB
You have come to the right place for advice, but maybe you have used the wrong word in seeking that advice - cheap!
Hot Press do a 500 micron board that is super smooth on both sides and is ideal for fixing photographs to, that will not show the 'orange peel' effect.
I do not know what procedure RoboFramer is using or has used with diluted PVA method, but not having the luxury of a press in our premises I use PVA quite extensively with excellent results, especially for mounting photographs.
Using a 4 inch foam roller (Woolies special), I coat the board, let it 'tack off' then coat it again before placing the photograph on it and hard roller it in place taking out any air bubbles. You get about a 4 minute working time.
12 months ago, I completed a project for SHELTERBOX, which was to dry mount and mount 90 in number of 16" x 24" mat photographs. These have travelled the world in PR and charity presentations. They show no sign of deterioration of the glue. Yet, I hasten to add here that another 10 prints dry mounted in the USA by using a spray photo fix adhesive, is in quite bad shape with the photos lifting and bubbles all over the place.
To me its not a lot of trouble and time to produce long lasting quality work.
You have come to the right place for advice, but maybe you have used the wrong word in seeking that advice - cheap!
Hot Press do a 500 micron board that is super smooth on both sides and is ideal for fixing photographs to, that will not show the 'orange peel' effect.
I do not know what procedure RoboFramer is using or has used with diluted PVA method, but not having the luxury of a press in our premises I use PVA quite extensively with excellent results, especially for mounting photographs.
Using a 4 inch foam roller (Woolies special), I coat the board, let it 'tack off' then coat it again before placing the photograph on it and hard roller it in place taking out any air bubbles. You get about a 4 minute working time.
12 months ago, I completed a project for SHELTERBOX, which was to dry mount and mount 90 in number of 16" x 24" mat photographs. These have travelled the world in PR and charity presentations. They show no sign of deterioration of the glue. Yet, I hasten to add here that another 10 prints dry mounted in the USA by using a spray photo fix adhesive, is in quite bad shape with the photos lifting and bubbles all over the place.
To me its not a lot of trouble and time to produce long lasting quality work.
John GCF
I am not using any PVA method, diluted or otherwise, I said I had "heard of ....."Merlin Framers wrote:
I do not know what procedure RoboFramer is using or has used with diluted PVA method, but not having the luxury of a press in our premises I use PVA quite extensively with excellent results, especially for mounting photographs.
.
Before artcare restore was invented I simply did not drymount ANYTHING - I'd wetmount MY OWN stuff (Rolataq applicator with lineco archival paste or Nori paste) and only ever for float mounting, and, at a push - customers' stuff too.
Pete Bingham's method involved a press with builders PVA, but the advice he gave, in a recent 'agony' column in TPB envolved sticking something to MDF. This advice was to an obvious rookie and I think it was terrible advice, the guy, plus others reading, now think MDF is OK to stick things to and he, or they, will no doubt perfect and/or adapt this method for items of value - I see it all the time. It was this method that I was referring to re 'trouble and time' not your method with no press Mark - I bet you are not sticking your photos to MDF are you?
I don't think it's OK to stick ANYTHING to MDF - and, if you have a press, artcare restore saves time and therefore money. The end material cost may not be cheaper, but you'll probably make that up, or break even on labour cost AND end up with something reversible and archival.
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Being of the opinion that not everything that we frame has to be to museum standards, I think that this wet mounting method does a super job and is perfectly adequate for the purpose.Roboframer wrote:To me it seems like going to a lot of trouble and time to do a bad job.
I agree with Roboframer that it does seem like a lot of trouble when compared to the convenience of a tacky board, specially for a one-of job. But I'm sure, like many jobs about the workshop, it has its own rhythm, and once used to it, it would seem like no trouble at all.
We only use this method for oversize posters.
I have heard of people mounting on to glass to avoid the orange peel effect, I wonder if acrylic glass would also work.
HOW Much!?
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Various framing suppliers stock a board known as white liner board, which has a grey board core and is faced on both sides with a layer of china clay loaded white paper. It is very smooth and is normally completely free of orange peel effects. However I would not be suprised if there are various grades of this, so cheaper sources might need checking out first.
I have found that my local supplier of packaging materials is much cheaper than buying it from a framing supplier, but I can't tell you what it costs these days, because I've got quite a large stock from about three years ago.
BTW, I've never found that normal grey board is much good for dry-mounting as it seems to be guaranteed to produce the dreaded orange peel effect.
Cheers,
Mark
I have found that my local supplier of packaging materials is much cheaper than buying it from a framing supplier, but I can't tell you what it costs these days, because I've got quite a large stock from about three years ago.
BTW, I've never found that normal grey board is much good for dry-mounting as it seems to be guaranteed to produce the dreaded orange peel effect.
Cheers,
Mark