Flattening prints etc

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Of framing styles or techniques that rocked your boat, and also of those that didn't
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foxyframer
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Flattening prints etc

Post by foxyframer »

How many times do you get in limited edition prints coiled up like watch-springs, or wavy watercolours. Items that should not be 'stuck down'. A simple method is to place between two sheets of silicon release paper; place in the hot press for one to two minutes (not too hot) and leave in to cool, sometimes at the end of the day to leave overnight. We use our trusty old Ademco hotpress for this job. Still working well after thirty five years. Works every time. Word of warning. Some print finishes can patchily 'gloss up', so an understanding of printing is an advantage.

Still see framers who insist everything is mounted down, no matter what.
Measure twice - cut once
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Post by Not your average framer »

The prints only gloss-up due to the heat applied and since you are not dry mounting the temperature can be quite a bit lower, say 50 degrees instead of 85 degrees. I would suggest that glossing-up a limited edition is almost as bad as dry mounting it, since it's has not been preserved in "original" condition which can affect it's future value.
Cheers,
Mark
Roboframer

Post by Roboframer »

I'm no fan of dry mounting.

But what about artcare restore?
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John
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Post by John »

Lion have just introduced this de-curler
Image
Part No. 5928
You can find it in their on-line catalogue here
foxyframer
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Post by foxyframer »

I'm no fan of dry mounting either.
Not to hot was the lower end of the scale, so as not to be tempted to use high temperatures ( sorry if this was misleading) .
Measure twice - cut once
markw

Post by markw »

I use the paper that comes interleaved with the precoated hot melt board on prints where I think the surface may become shiny - it doesnt seem to react in the same way as the clear release. My principle would always be to avoid putting anything of value in a hot press - but when you get valuable prints in that have been tightly rolled and left in a tube for some time, then this method of restoring them to near original condition (barring the kinks and damage inflicted when rolling) works very well with little heat.
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