Canvas bonding

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Wed 27 Sep, 2006 12:47 pm

Recently I've been printing photographs to canvas, bonding them to 5mm Fomecor and fitting them into Lion's ash floater frame moulding (L1387).

I started by spraying the canvas with spray glue (something like 3M sparymount) but it was difficult to get a good enough coating on the canvas to ensure a good bond.

I then tried brushing on Lion's Neuatral pH Adhesive (1589). This worked OK but was very messy and VERY expensive.

Currently I'm using a Rollataq 300 applicator (lion code 3224) to apply glue to the back of the canvas then a Brayer roller to firm the canvas down to the Fomecor.

Mostly this works but one photographer has brought some of them back as the canvas is bubbling. The bubbles come and go -- generally they go once they get back to the workshop and then reappear when she takes them away. I suspect the problem is because the photographer takes them around from one exhibition to another and leaves them in her car for extended periods so they get subjected to extremes of temperature and humidity.

She orders more canvas prints than anyone else so I camn't afford to lose her custom so I'm looking fort a more sucure way of bonding the canvas to fomecor. Does anyone have any suggestions?

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Wed 27 Sep, 2006 1:04 pm

Prints on canvas (fabric) should be stretched as any oil painting, on stretcher or strainer bars.

As alternative to what you want to do, I would apply a coating of PVA adhesive (white glue - fabric adhesive), apply with a chip brush or a paint roller, to the foam center board and let it dry under pressure. You might have to counter mount the sandwich of materials if there is unwanted bowing.

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Wed 27 Sep, 2006 3:08 pm

JFeig wrote:Prints on canvas (fabric) should be stretched as any oil painting, on stretcher or strainer bars.

As alternative to what you want to do, I would apply a coating of PVA adhesive (white glue - fabric adhesive)

I stretch when required but block mounting with a floater frame is more popular with some customers.

I've wondered about PVA adhesive but I'm not sure about its longevity -- doesn't it tend to go yellow with age?

JFeig · Post by **JFeig** » Wed 27 Sep, 2006 3:18 pm

WelshFramer wrote: I've wondered about PVA adhesive but I'm not sure about its longevity -- doesn't it tend to go yellow with age?

it will not yellow - longevity is good

Not your average framer · Wed 27 Sep, 2006 4:33 pm

I've had enough bad experiences with spray mount while working elsewhere to never use it in my own workshop at all. I think the very smooth surface papers on foam core board are china clay coated and spray mount and similar products don't stick so well to this kind of surface. I used PVA all the time, it's simple to use, cost effective and always dependable.
Cheers,
Mark

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Wed 27 Sep, 2006 4:42 pm

Not your average framer wrote:I used PVA all the time,

Looks as if PVA is the way to go. Many thanks to all.

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Wed 27 Sep, 2006 8:08 pm

I use PVA all the time with canvas onto foam board.

I too use the LIONS floater frames and have had no problems at all.

As I do not have any type of press available, If the canvas has any type of 'relief' on, then I cover the canvas with cloth then put foam board on top then a sheet of glass and weights on top of that for about 1 hour.

I have not had any problem with the PVA bleeding through and sticking to the cloth either.

My printer always laminates his photographic canvas, so again no problem with bleeding.

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Thu 28 Sep, 2006 10:12 am

Merlin Framers wrote:I use PVA all the time with canvas onto foam board.

PVA it is, then. How do you spread it? With a brush?

Merlin Framers wrote:My printer always laminates his photographic canvas, so again no problem with bleeding.

I can't laminate canvas but I want Epson Water Resistant Canvas which is quite dense and has a water resistant coating. I also spray the canvases with a UV spray so, with a bit of luck, I won't get any bleedthough either.

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Thu 28 Sep, 2006 10:15 am

WelshFramer wrote:I can't laminate canvas but I want Epson Water Resistant Canvas ....

Did I say that? Of course I meant 'I use Epson...'

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Thu 28 Sep, 2006 6:49 pm

Hi Mike
I mix the PVA (75parts) with water (25 parts) when bonding canvas, that gives a slightly thicker consistency that the 50/50 with paper prints.

I always roller the PVA onto both mating surfaces, leaving about 2 mins for the PVA to 'tack off' before joining.

I have found that the 'cheapy' sorry..less expensive.. sponge ones from Woolies are the best, plus they come with a tray for about £2.99 and they wash out really well with hot water and some detergent.

If you have excess PVA, then be careful when you roller or flatten down the canvas that it does not run out at the edges and get on the roller. In fact I use a piece of 'offcut' mount board and place the bevel face down then use the roller, that way if any PVA does decide to escape from the sides then it will not get on the roller.

Leave to dry and the hardened excess PVA can be easily trimmed off, giving a nice sharp edge to the canvas. When using foam board and the LIONS floater frames, I roll down the edges ever so slightly. Some times I have left a 2mm gap between the edge of the material and the frame, other times fitted flush. Your choice on that one.

Hope that helps

WelshFramer · Post by **WelshFramer** » Mon 02 Oct, 2006 4:26 pm

Thanks for those helpful instructions, Merlin. The nearest Woolies is quite a way from here so I bought a mini roller kit from Screwfix. Being extravigant, I bought the more expensive version (£2.99) and some extra foam rollers.