[Merged] Fixing backboard when flush with moulding

[stanhol]

DUH !

Another blonde moment!

The reason I am having a nightmare with non flexi points is because i am using a fletcher flexi master!!!!!!! Need to buy another gun for the rigid points! At least it wasnt user error this time.

I have found out from a reliable source that flexi points should only be used in framing where rigid points cannot be used, ie shallow rebate. If used in the exam you wont fail but will be marked down.

Thanks for all the info, yet again!
Sandra

[Nigel Hogg]

I am keen to practice 'Conservation' framing. Can anyone help with the following.
I have a moulding that has a 8mm rebate. By the time I have fitted my glass, 2 thicknesses of mountboard and a backboard (total 8mm) there is nos pace left for the tabs. What is the common practice to accomodate tha tabs? Nige H

[markw]

common practice would be to chamfer the edge of the backing board to get your nails - tabs whatever you use into the moulding. The most obvious comment would be - use a deeper moulding for conservation work - but we all know that's not always possible.

I normally use CorriCor conservation backing board - This can be crushed at the edges - scalpel blade rubbed along the edge will do it - giving you a touch more room to put your fixings in.

[michelle]

Hello Nigel

have a look at the post about 5 down from this titled

"Fixing backboard when flush with moulding"

Hope this helps

[Nigel Hogg]

common practice would be to chamfer the edge of the backing board to get your nails - tabs whatever you use into the moulding. The most obvious comment would be - use a deeper moulding for conservation work - but we all know that's not always possible.

I normally use CorriCor conservation backing board - This can be crushed at the edges - scalpel blade rubbed along the edge will do it - giving you a touch more room to put your fixings in.

Thanks Mark, that is good advice.

Would you at any time attach the artwork to the CorriCor conservation backing board to save 2mm of depth, which would make inserting the tabs easier? I hear some framers do. Or is this very much a no no.

[markw]

absolute No No in my books.

[Nigel Hogg]

Hello Nigel

have a look at the post about 5 down from this titled

"Fixing backboard when flush with moulding"

Hope this helps

Thanks Michelle. There was lots of good advice. Nigel H

[Nigel Nobody]

Another method is to staple and glue a small piece of wood on the back of the assembled frame. Make it flush with the edge of the rebate.
I have equipment to saw them to size and dress them, but hardware stores down here have small sections of pine that are suitable for this.

If you can't get them in your neck of the woods, you may be able to get a wood machining shop or joinery or cabinetmaker to make you a bundle of them. 15mm x 6mm and 20mm x 10mm are good sizes to have.

[Gesso&Bole]

I sometimes use a small square flat topped moulding for this purpose. If you cut it upside down, and the wrong way round in the Morso, the stepped effect on the back of the frame looks quite neat when it is all taped up, you can also staple through the rebate part to attach it.

Does that make sense? If not say so, and I'll post a picture to explain

[The Jolly Good Framer #1]

This is what I do....
Using MDF
I have one of these....

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/TRYMBL ... ,8764.aspx
it bevels off the edge of the MDF so you can the fire in the tabs at an angle – the tabs being Fletcher glazier points (the short ones). All you need to do then is lift the back end of the tab gun up a touch and fire it in.

And using corrugated type backing like Art Bak is even easier – just squash the backing down with the tab gun making sure you lift the back end up a bit so the tab goes in at an angle. Dead easy!

tab.jpg (11.78 KiB) Viewed 7943 times

If you find the tabs are sticking up a bit you can always just push the down a bit with a screwdriver or something similar.

[prospero]

Lion do some stuff called "RabbetSpace", which is basically an extruded plastic section in a sort of straight Z shape that is screwed to the back of the frame and extends the rebate (or rabbet is US-speak). It''s maybe the only option in some cases if the back of the moulding is less than about 1/2" wide. It comes in various depths, the shallowest being 3mm. You don't need points and depending on the space required you may even have to add more packing to get the correct amount of pressure on the backboard.

I'm not all that enamoured with it to be honest but it's a solution of sorts.

[Nigel Hogg]

Another method is to staple and glue a small piece of wood on the back of the assembled frame. Make it flush with the edge of the rebate.
I have equipment to saw them to size and dress them, but hardware stores down here have small sections of pine that are suitable for this.

If you can't get them in your neck of the woods, you may be able to get a wood machining shop or joinery or cabinetmaker to make you a bundle of them. 15mm x 6mm and 20mm x 10mm are good sizes to have.

Thanks Nigel

[Nigel Hogg]

I sometimes use a small square flat topped moulding for this purpose. If you cut it upside down, and the wrong way round in the Morso, the stepped effect on the back of the frame looks quite neat when it is all taped up, you can also staple through the rebate part to attach it.

Does that make sense? If not say so, and I'll post a picture to explain

It does make sense but it is always good to see a picture. It would be appreciated. Thanks

[Nigel Hogg]

Lion do some stuff called "RabbetSpace", which is basically an extruded plastic section in a sort of straight Z shape that is screwed to the back of the frame and extends the rebate (or rabbet is US-speak). It''s maybe the only option in some cases if the back of the moulding is less than about 1/2" wide. It comes in various depths, the shallowest being 3mm. You don't need points and depending on the space required you may even have to add more packing to get the correct amount of pressure on the backboard.

I'm not all that enamoured with it to be honest but it's a solution of sorts.

Thanks for the info prospero. Nige H

[philipsheldon]

Mark W - Sir !

That's why you're THE MAN !

Great advise as ever !

P.

[AllFramed]

Thanks "Jolly Good". Nice to know that these gadgets work.

Having read the other post on the subject, it seems that I am not alone. Thanks for the help.

cheers
Tim

[Grahame Case]

I have popped on my Moderators hat and Merged these two topics, as it will enable the details to be found easier when people are searching the forum in future.

[apothiki]

Along the same lines as other suggestions but I use a 1"rasp to chamfer the MDF not all the way along but at intervals i.e. where you would normally fire in a diamond, triangle or whatever. Rasping at an angle provides plenty of 'meat' for routine fixing and if the MDF appears rough it can be smoothed down with the file that's usually on the other side of the rasp! Bear in mind you're making dust so wear a mask.

I have tried the gadget from Lion but can't get on with it although the principle is good.

Cheers

[Roboframer]

I have popped on my Moderators hat and Merged these two topics, as it will enable the details to be found easier when people are searching the forum in future.

This is a first - there must be many different topics covering the same subject, why these two?

You also bumped these old topics and totally confused me, why not just merge them with no announcement?

Keep your mod hat on and now go and merge all the 'my morso is chipping the back of of my mouldings' threads. Better still - join in on the forum - reply to a thread or even start one.

Just sayin'

[WelshFramer]

Well done, John. Looks like a good thread that might be worth archiving for the oracle.