Steel band clamps

[Trinity]

Has any one any thoughts / advice / experience on using a steel band clamp prior to underpinning (please). I've long had problems controlling larger frames on the underpinner and just thought that if i glued and assembled using a band prior to underpinning it might just be an answer - leaving it overnight wouldn't be an issue.

Thanks.

[A Few More Words]

Yes this method works fine and beats struggling with larger frames in the underpinner. We regularly clamp up larger frames and particular deeper moundings where you might find it very difficult to get a good joint up the full depth of the moulding when underpinning straight away. Just remove the clamp next morning and you can underpin with ease. We use the steel band type with 4 plastic pieces to fit on corners - sometimes you might need some more soft packing at corners to avoid marking delicate mouldings. Also sometimes use a nylon strap type clamp that has a ratchet to tension it.

[Nigel Nobody]

I sometimes use steel band clamps after underpinning to pull the corners tight at the top.

If you are having trouble with supports, you could try making some columns from folded foamboard and place several of them at strategic places to support long frame sides. You could also buy some commercial adjustable stands with rollers on top that were mentioned in a topic recently.

I made a four foot diameter rotating table in front of my vee nailer which support most frames.

[prospero]

I prefer to ones that use webbing. Stanley used to do some neat little ones that you could cinch up with a spanner. On big frames I glue all four corners (with biscuits if necessary) and throw the band around. Tighten up gradually while jiggling the corners until perfect alignment. Then take it to the pinner. Some frames are too big for the pinner, in which case they get a couple of hefty woodscrews across the corners. But whatever method, as long as the clamp is in place the join does not get disturbed.

The Stanley clamps seem to be no longer available , but the tie-downs you can get from Auto accessory shops are an alternetive.

[Roboframer]

I've had the problem with narrow deep-rebated frames but have recently sorted it.

The problem is that my underpinner fences are only about half an inch high and my rebate clamp, if set higher than that or not, can splay such mouldings, and then the pressure pad splays them even more on contact.

So, I simply mitred and joined a flat moulding on its side, with stacked wedges, and I use that 'L' as a fence height extension, it also solves the problem of mouldings with a scooped back. I hope that makes sense, will take some photos tomorrow if I remember.

I don't want to know about clamps, nails, hammers & vices, fillers etc - if my undepinner don't like it, or if I can't make it like it - it's fired! (Bugger - reminds me, I missed 'the apprentice' tonight) I want (and need actually) the basic components of most all frames - moulding, mount board, glass, backing to be cut and assembled quickly and easily, to allow me to get on with stuff that machines cannot do, including the design time.

[vitalframer]

If you use buscuits at the joints and then a strap-clamp (leaving it overnight as suggested) do you think that it should still be pinned (belt and braces?). Also can anyone advise on the best glue brand that gives the strongest joint but does not mark the moulding surface if it leaks out when clamping. Thanks

[Nigel Nobody]

Biscuits are a great way to join wood including frames. I wouldn't think vee nails would be necessary if biscuits are used.
My preference is to just use vee nails in even very large frames. I've managed to join 8ft x 4ft frames, by myself using the vee nailer. You just have to have a good plan and appropriate supports. Usually make two joints one day (1 L shape) and the other two the following day.

[stcstc]

hey nigel

May i ask why you do the L' s one day then the other joints the next, i never thought of doing this and curious to what the gain is

As for supports i have a couple of those roller things, i use one with my morso instead of the left hand arm

as means i can move it out of the way when i need to

[sim.on]

I have a strap clamp and also a Veritas speed clamp and I prefer the speed clamp which is also a lot less fiddly. Whichever one I use (which is rarely now as I have a proper underpinner) I alway protect the corners with bits of mountboard).

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/main/sp-4 ... on-set.asp

[emeraldart]

I use the strap clamp all the time and makes joining bigger mouldings much easier. I use the stanley clamp which I can still get here in Ireland. On one occasion the strap was too short for the big frame so I joined two straps together with a small piece of timber and staples and it works fine.
I use carpenters glue(the yellow stuff). Just be sure to wipe excess as soon as possible with a wet cloth. Also if you put on too much glue it seems out all over the place. If you leave the strap clamp on too long any glue between the plastic corners andthe moulding can get hard and be impossible to remove.

beltclampresize.jpg (94.47 KiB) Viewed 7701 times

[Trinity]

Thanks for the varied and helpful responses. I've ordered a Frameco Super Steel Strap Clamp, on offer at £28.95 delivered (usually around £52 with VAT), so I'll see how I get on with that. If there is someone whose thinking of a similar purchase let me know and I'll pass on the details.

[Nigel Nobody]

May i ask why you do the L' s one day then the other joints the next, i never thought of doing this and curious to what the gain is

It allows the glue to set up. If you move the L's around while the glue is still wet, it can strain the joint open as you move it and if the profile is such that a strap clamp won't work, it's difficult to get a tight joint.
On some profiles I use a piece of triangular plastic to protect the finish and many layers of masking tape, pulled tight, to pull the top of the joint tight. The tape only sticks to the underside of the moulding.

[stcstc]

ah ok cool i thought thats what you might say i just wanted to check

[Trinity]

Ha! They're only £29 when they're not in stock! Gone for the Stanley instead.

[guzzijim]

Look on Ebay there's a clamp with rods and extensions.

[prospero]

These are great if you can find them.

[Nigel Nobody]

I have about 10 of these. A lot of pressure can be applied.
http://www.diyframing.com/store_viewItem.cfm/ItemID/98