Frame Finishes

[paultoon]

Hi,

I'm placing an order for some liming wax.

I want to order some extra finishes and thus get the most from the delivery charge!

So far 1 x liming wax, 1 x bronze brush, 1 x 10 pack retouch crayons.

I am thinking of sticking to the Liberon range as that's what keeps getting mentioned.

For someone starting out and wanting to say spend about £100. What items would you suggest keeping in stock?

Also liquid wax or paste? Tint n wax or separate stain and wax?

Any advice, as always, is much appreciated!

Thanks

Paul

[markw]

Waxes generally are worth having around if you plan on doing coloured or wood toned finishes on natural woods. Liming wax can look good - and you can buy a lot of limed type finished mouldings (easier than liming as it can be messy) but in my experience its a little dated (these things can be very regional).

So back to your question - I would add black patinating wax, verdigris wax, few of the wood colours - Jacobean oak is nice - antique pine and mahogany work well.

The verdigris wax can work very well on gold mouldings - distress with wire wool - then waxed with verdigris - leaving the wax in ridges etc.

Black patinating wax to tone down and antique bright golds - also useful for touching up black mouldings.

[Jonny2morsos]

On my shelf in addition to the liming wax I have.

Black Bison wax in Neutral, Clear, Dark Oak and Victorian Mahogany.

Liberon stains in Light, Mid & dark Oak, Ebony, Marine Blue, Forest green Sky Blue, French Lilac, Poppy Red and another one or two shades of green. Some of these have been discontinued I think. A good effect can be achieved with these by staining and then liming over the stain.

I would order a box of latex gloves to use when liming as the lime is not good for your skin.

[prospero]

When it comes to liming I find liming waxes are too much like hard work. Easier to use a coat of white emulsion in varying dilutions according to the effect you want. Paint it on and wipe it off with a dishcloth. When it's dry, a light waxing with clear wax will seal the surface. You can also use different pastely shades for hint of colour.

For ripping up the grain, a steel wire brush is easier. The bronze ones aren't really man enough IMHO.

Great for doing suede shoes though....

[markw]

The bronze brushes are really only meant for ripping out the grain on oak - steel could cause discolouration. Would agree that steel is much better at the job - even better is a wire brush on a electric drill. You can get some good effects on Ash by using a combination of ripping the grain - burning with a blow torch - then waxing or liming, nice aged finish.

[Jonny2morsos]

Forgot to mention I have white Liberon stain as well for a quick limed look.

[Not your average framer]

I can't be bothered with the steel or bronze brush. It makes a lot of mess and the results are often some what uneven depending upon how uniform or not uniform the grain in the wood may be.

For me the amount of time taken to produce a particular finish must be justified by the price which can be charged for doing it.

Liming can still work well with plain ash or oak mouldings without using a brush on the grain. One of my quick and easy finishes is to stain the wood with a slightly watered down antique white paint and then lime it white white liming wax.

This results in a two tone contrast effect, but a very subtile one. Done right it can look like a very expensive designer moulding, which can easily be priced accordingly.

Don't forget to spend some time practising and perfecting your skills and finishes, as this is the key to success.

[Roboframer]

Regards liming, liming wax can indeed be messy but an apron and some latex gloves and you can drop it and go and take an order, or pick your nose, in a flash.

There are many liquid versions but (IMHO) they give a totally different look than a liming wax finish - more of a 'washed' look, plus once totally dry, liming wax can be buffed to a nice shine; you'd have to add a wax or some varnish for the same effect on most liquid applications that are not so 'rubbed in'

You can 'adjust' limimg wax quite easily, rub it in hard, rub off the excess and then apply another thin coat, allow to dry and then buff. Or don't apply that second thin coat - totally different look. Or don't apply that thin coat AND rub off more with neutral wax to leave the wax just in the grain, this works well over a dark sprit-based stain.

[Not your average framer]

When I said it makes a lot of mess, I was refering to the wood dust produced by the steel / bronze brush. As to the liming wax, I don't have a problem with that at all.

[Roboframer]

I can see that, I was referring to a previous comment - I should've used the quote facility.

[JohnMcafee]

Not necessarily Roboframer, a word or two could just as easily have put your post into context without the use of quotes.

[Roboframer]

You mean like 'regards liming'?