My (new!) Casesse underpinner
My (new!) Casesse underpinner
Hi all,
Shiny new Casesse CS 88 arrived in the workshop last week,it's now all set etc and we already have a problem.....
Basically,each time we do a mitre the presser head drops a little,so by the fourth one the frame won't go under it. Now,I know this sounds like "sumat loose lad" but everything is tight and greased etc.
I spoke the the suppliers (well known frame supplier in Bournemouth) who got a GCF framer to phone me with the usual "Check there's nothing loose" and couldn't really identify any cause.
I would really appreciate any input on this one,
Regards,Mike.
Shiny new Casesse CS 88 arrived in the workshop last week,it's now all set etc and we already have a problem.....
Basically,each time we do a mitre the presser head drops a little,so by the fourth one the frame won't go under it. Now,I know this sounds like "sumat loose lad" but everything is tight and greased etc.
I spoke the the suppliers (well known frame supplier in Bournemouth) who got a GCF framer to phone me with the usual "Check there's nothing loose" and couldn't really identify any cause.
I would really appreciate any input on this one,
Regards,Mike.
- Merlin
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I used to have a CS88. Confused by the 'head drops a little'
Sounds like the head is NOT returning to its correct top position after use each time.
Are you sure that the Wire cable is not snagging round the pulley system.
You will need to take the red protective box off (the one just above the lower shelf) and make sure that the routing of the cable is good. Also - yes I know it is new - but make sure the wire cable is not 'bird cageing'
That would cause it to snag.
Sounds like the head is NOT returning to its correct top position after use each time.
Are you sure that the Wire cable is not snagging round the pulley system.
You will need to take the red protective box off (the one just above the lower shelf) and make sure that the routing of the cable is good. Also - yes I know it is new - but make sure the wire cable is not 'bird cageing'
That would cause it to snag.
John GCF
- Mark Thornton
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First of all your top clamp pad isn't more than 1 1/4 inch above the top of the moulding is it.If it is then lower it.
If not do the following to test where the fault may be:
Remove the distributor block & wedges and try operating the machine - does it still stick?
If it does then push down the top clamp beam to the mechanism by hand and then pull it up slowly - is there any resistance on the upstroke?
Cs88 underpinners don't always travel very well when new and the mechanism may be slightly out of alignment (this is not uncommon).
If not do the following to test where the fault may be:
Remove the distributor block & wedges and try operating the machine - does it still stick?
If it does then push down the top clamp beam to the mechanism by hand and then pull it up slowly - is there any resistance on the upstroke?
Cs88 underpinners don't always travel very well when new and the mechanism may be slightly out of alignment (this is not uncommon).
https://www.underpinner-spares.co.uk Framing equipment spare parts - Easy online ordering
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It sounds like a problem I've had in the past, when the pulley for the steel cable stopped revolving at all - It was stuck solid! It was a real pain to fix. First I phoned Lion's machinery man, (mine came from Lion) and he described how it went together. His description also matched the little booklet which came with it, but it was not quite like the booklet, as they had obviously made a design change.
So I took it to bits to see what was going on. It's a while ago, so I am trying to remember, (I'm not at work so I can't have a quick look), but I remember hammering out the pin through the middle with a pin punch, when I think I was told to expect and nut and bolt. The pulley is made of solid aluminium alloy and does not have any recognisable bearing bush or anything similar. The pulley would not freely revolve like before on either the pin of between the forks in which it was mounted. There was some evidence of aluminium alloy stuck to the surface of the pin and some roughing up of the outside surfaces of the pulley.
This is what I did:
I smoothed down the roughed up edges of the pulley by laying some silicon carbide abrasive paper on a flat surface and rubbing both sides of the pulley on this in a circular motion to remove the raised areas where it was roughed up. You should not be doing this very much at all, as soon as it will move freely in the forks again you should stop. I can't remember, but I may have done something similar to the inside of the pulley.
You should not do anything to the pin which may reduce it's diameter, it is intended to be tight in the holes in the forks. This is what engineers call an interferance fit. After I was happy that the pulley would again revolve freely on the pin I re-assembled the whole assemble, but this time after lubricating the hole in the pulley and both sides of the pulley which "Copper-ease" which you can buy from car accessory shops or Halfords. Copper-ease is an anti-seizing lubricant which should stop it happening again. Mine has been fine ever since.
Before you do anything, just check if this pulley revolves freely or not.
Hope this helps,
Mark
So I took it to bits to see what was going on. It's a while ago, so I am trying to remember, (I'm not at work so I can't have a quick look), but I remember hammering out the pin through the middle with a pin punch, when I think I was told to expect and nut and bolt. The pulley is made of solid aluminium alloy and does not have any recognisable bearing bush or anything similar. The pulley would not freely revolve like before on either the pin of between the forks in which it was mounted. There was some evidence of aluminium alloy stuck to the surface of the pin and some roughing up of the outside surfaces of the pulley.
This is what I did:
I smoothed down the roughed up edges of the pulley by laying some silicon carbide abrasive paper on a flat surface and rubbing both sides of the pulley on this in a circular motion to remove the raised areas where it was roughed up. You should not be doing this very much at all, as soon as it will move freely in the forks again you should stop. I can't remember, but I may have done something similar to the inside of the pulley.
You should not do anything to the pin which may reduce it's diameter, it is intended to be tight in the holes in the forks. This is what engineers call an interferance fit. After I was happy that the pulley would again revolve freely on the pin I re-assembled the whole assemble, but this time after lubricating the hole in the pulley and both sides of the pulley which "Copper-ease" which you can buy from car accessory shops or Halfords. Copper-ease is an anti-seizing lubricant which should stop it happening again. Mine has been fine ever since.
Before you do anything, just check if this pulley revolves freely or not.
Hope this helps,
Mark
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That's true, as he no doubt knows and the suppliers responsibility has already been mentioned, but I figure the information may be of use anyway.osgood wrote:As Mark says, it is the responsibilty of the supplier to provide you with a machine that is not defective. Do not attempt to alter the machine in any way in case you void your warranty!
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CS-88
Mike,
I'm glad that our good friend Mark Thornton seems to have sorted out your problems. He's a top man on Cassese as well as most other makes of equipment.
We've just had another customer query on a CS-88. It's been sorted. However, would you let me have the serial number of your machine. We can then see if there is any pattern.
Martin H
I'm glad that our good friend Mark Thornton seems to have sorted out your problems. He's a top man on Cassese as well as most other makes of equipment.
We've just had another customer query on a CS-88. It's been sorted. However, would you let me have the serial number of your machine. We can then see if there is any pattern.
Martin H
Martin Harrold
md LION PFS Ltd
m 07973 303982
md LION PFS Ltd
m 07973 303982
Resolved the problem by......
Hi all,
We fixed the above problem!,and although the answer is pretty obvious now it didn't strike us as important at the time.
Basically,the rebate clamp (which we don't use,does anyone?) cable needed a lot more tension applying to assist the top pusher to return. It's not immediately obvious that this small spring/cable plays such a big role.
After doing the deed with the cable all is now well,thanks to everyone for the assist.
Mike
We fixed the above problem!,and although the answer is pretty obvious now it didn't strike us as important at the time.
Basically,the rebate clamp (which we don't use,does anyone?) cable needed a lot more tension applying to assist the top pusher to return. It's not immediately obvious that this small spring/cable plays such a big role.
After doing the deed with the cable all is now well,thanks to everyone for the assist.
Mike
Re: Resolved the problem by......
I haven't used an 88, but I can't imagine why the makers would put a clamp on the machine if they didn't intend it to be used.Mike wrote: Basically,the rebate clamp (which we don't use,does anyone?)
The clamping system on Cassese vee nailers is one of the features that helps to make tight joints. It just makes sense to me to use machinery the way it was intended by the manufacturer.