Float mounting fine-art prints
Float mounting fine-art prints
It has become ever more popular to float mount prints instead of window mounting. Could anybody give some advice as to the maximum size recommended for this process and what type of tape to be used for v- hinging. Thanks Heather
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John
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Hi Heather,
Welcome to the forum.
I have float mounted largish pictures which would just fit within a full jumbo sheet cut with a 2.5in mount using the Lion archival hinging tape.
Sorry to display my ignorance here, but what is v-hinging?
Welcome to the forum.
I have float mounted largish pictures which would just fit within a full jumbo sheet cut with a 2.5in mount using the Lion archival hinging tape.
Sorry to display my ignorance here, but what is v-hinging?
HOW Much!?
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Framer Dave
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Artwork of virtually any size can be float mounted, it just depends on what method is used.
Generally a v-hinge is recommended for something in the 40x50cm range or smaller. It's a relatively weak hinge and could peel off under too much weight. I avoid it completely regardless of size.
One option is the s-hinge or pass-through hinge. Once the artwork is hinged slits are cut in the mount board and smoothed out with an emery board. Pass the hinges through, adjust to center the art and bring the hinges UP towards the TOP of the board and attach with linen tape or similar.
Another option is the wrap hinge, also known as a pedestal mount. Hinge the art as usual. Then cut a board a fraction smaller than the artwork. With the art face-down lay the board on top, wrap the hinges around to the side of the board facing you and then attach. Now the whole board/art assembly can be attached securely to the mount board.
This second option is a bit easier and creates a more dimensional look.
When floating art be careful that it does not curl forward and hit the glass. Usually adding adequate spacers will do the job, but curled art may need a bit of restraint. In this case add side or "keeper" hinges on the sides near the bottom. These will keep the bottom of the artwork under control and prevent it from resting against the glass. Just make sure to attach them loosely to allow for the expansion and movement of the paper.
Generally a v-hinge is recommended for something in the 40x50cm range or smaller. It's a relatively weak hinge and could peel off under too much weight. I avoid it completely regardless of size.
One option is the s-hinge or pass-through hinge. Once the artwork is hinged slits are cut in the mount board and smoothed out with an emery board. Pass the hinges through, adjust to center the art and bring the hinges UP towards the TOP of the board and attach with linen tape or similar.
Another option is the wrap hinge, also known as a pedestal mount. Hinge the art as usual. Then cut a board a fraction smaller than the artwork. With the art face-down lay the board on top, wrap the hinges around to the side of the board facing you and then attach. Now the whole board/art assembly can be attached securely to the mount board.
This second option is a bit easier and creates a more dimensional look.
When floating art be careful that it does not curl forward and hit the glass. Usually adding adequate spacers will do the job, but curled art may need a bit of restraint. In this case add side or "keeper" hinges on the sides near the bottom. These will keep the bottom of the artwork under control and prevent it from resting against the glass. Just make sure to attach them loosely to allow for the expansion and movement of the paper.
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Bill Henry
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What Heather may be referring to as a “V” hinge is sometimes called a “T” hinge. When called upon, I usually use a linen backed, water released tape. Ideally the tape should be weaker than the art it supports, but that is not always possible. Not wishing to hedge, but the number and position of the hinges depends greatly upon the size and weight of the paper to be mounted. I have seldom had to make more than four such hinges.
A strip of tape is folded latitudinally (?) with the gummed side out. One arm of the “V” is attached to the backing substrate while the other is attached to the art. For extra support and to keep the tape from slipping downward, an additional strip of tape can be used to reinforce the crook of the “V”.
This is a difficult type of hinge to position accurately. I usually mount the art on oversized backing, cut the mat, center it, then trim the excess backing material.
A strip of tape is folded latitudinally (?) with the gummed side out. One arm of the “V” is attached to the backing substrate while the other is attached to the art. For extra support and to keep the tape from slipping downward, an additional strip of tape can be used to reinforce the crook of the “V”.
This is a difficult type of hinge to position accurately. I usually mount the art on oversized backing, cut the mat, center it, then trim the excess backing material.
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osgood
Vee hingeing has an inherent capability of peeling itself off. I never use it because of this issue.
I find that "S" hingeing is less likely to detach and I use it all the time for float mounting artwork. The hinge passes through a slit in the mat that the artwork is floating on and is fixed to the back of that mat.
I find that "S" hingeing is less likely to detach and I use it all the time for float mounting artwork. The hinge passes through a slit in the mat that the artwork is floating on and is fixed to the back of that mat.