Over/under cuts on multi appertures

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sat 28 Apr, 2007 8:10 pm

'Morning all

We have a Keencut gold and really,really struggle to set it up to get good cuts on multi apps, I.E. not overcut at the end of cut.
The manual says to set the start cut finger to zero....which is great to startthe cut ,but then it's really hard to guestimate where to finish.(of course, we mark it out initially,but still......

Does anone have a prefered method that could be shared?.

Regards,Mike.

Not your average framer · Sat 28 Apr, 2007 8:24 pm

Yes, I always cut a little short of the corners and complete the cut to the corners from the front with a thin Personna safety backed blade.

It's all done by eye and involves very little effort as the rear of the mountboard has been already cut by the mountcutter. All you need to do is cut through the thin bit at the front.

A TIP: Use your thumb and fore-finger of one hand to press the mount and the drop-out together, before cutting to align the blade with the existing cut. It's very easy to do, but you may like to practice first, if you're not sure about it.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 28 Apr, 2007 8:57 pm

The Ultimat gold gas a black line on the blade housing for this purpose, lift the blade JUST before it meets the line you have drawn for the end of the cut.

Then what Mark (NYAF) said.

But if you have alinged the cutter bar too close to or too far away from the lines you have drawn to cut ALONG - you'll get an over/undercut anyway. All trial and error.

Not your average framer · Sat 28 Apr, 2007 9:18 pm

Sadly, there's no black line on my original Ultimat (our's is not the gold version). My technique is to look at the end of the ground bevel on the blade, which leaves you just short of completing the cut.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 28 Apr, 2007 9:30 pm

Just make your own line - that's what I did on my non-gold ultimat.

Just disect the angle of the protruding blade and follow that line onto the housing. I scored my line but a very fine marker works too - just needs refreshing now and then.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sun 29 Apr, 2007 10:14 pm

Another tip for multi apertures.

Instead of using the usual slip mat 'strip' - use one larger than the mount you are cutting - e.g. if the overall mount dimension is 20 x 16" - use a slip mat 22 x 18" or so.

The reason for this is that when you lift the mount out to turn it around, fallouts that are undercut can dangle loose and swivel about and sometimes their weight can make them drop out and leave nasty corners.

With a larger slip mat you can remove the mount and slip mat together so that the fallouts can't dangle about.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Mon 30 Apr, 2007 5:11 pm

You know,after reading all the above advice,it's amazing how much is just common sense,but that's the problem with it,it ain't very common!.....at least in our workshop.

Seriously,thanks to all for the advice,this will really help us in our never ending battle against that great enemy of our trade.....poor quality!

Regards,Mike.

Not your average framer · Mon 30 Apr, 2007 8:08 pm

John,

Instead of the oversized slip-mat, I complete the cut on each corner as I complete the cuts for each corner. It may sound long-winded, but in practice I find it very quick and no hassle at all.

I'm obviously a bit of a scrouge with the slip-mat material!