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Firstly hello - only just found you, and so many useful things on here!
Secondly, I am currently having a problem with my Morso F - any advice would be welcome. My mitre cuts (on both sides) have constantly got a little nick of wood missing right from the bottom of it, therefore when I underpin it the back of every corner is not sharp and would require a small touch-up - clearly I'm not happy doing this and need to solve it to carry on. The rest of the cut is giving a nice clean edge.
I have tried various things - newly sharpened blades, reviewing my fitting of them and then lastly adjusting the forward movement of the knife block.
A lot of mouldings are not square at the back/bottom but are rounded off, sometimes just ever so slightly. Where there is air between the table and the moulding the blades can do that and on some profiles always do, especially soft wood.
John, thank you I will now go and try that! I've had my Morso for a couple of years and everything has gone so smoothly in terms of the quality of the mitre that this is probably doing me good learning more about the ins and outs of it in relation to a wider range of mouldings.
As Roboframer says - on some mouldings it happens - and its very annoying.
It sometimes helps to rub a little wax onto the blades - make sure that your final cut is very fine - and make sure you have a range of touch up waxes.
It does make you wonder why moulding manufacturers round off the back of some profiles - it always has the potential to cause a problem.
Just tried a square batten, and I can still not getting a totally clean cut. It looks like it is tearing the wood very slightly at the end of the cut and is therefore pulling a tiny bit of wood off each corner. The rest off the cut is still totally clean, blades new on today.
Must be something wrong with my setup - not sure why it would have changed all of a sudden! What should I look at, as my experience so far on troubleshooting it not high!
check that you haven't got any muck stopping the blade from cutting as far back into the back fence as possible. If all is clear you may have to adjust the blade travel. - you will find a few earlier postings on this subject if you search.
Firstly make sure the blades are passing the bedding plate and there is no clog in the point of the V of the blades.
Put a couple of vertical knicks at the base of the moulding with a sharp Stanley knife, about 1.5ml apart, just before the last three slices. Accuracy is important, but the resultant neatness is worth it.
It looks like you've tried the usual obvious things, so here's a few less obvious ones, just in case:-
Between the moving baseplate which carries the bottom blades and the fixed baseplate, there is a gap which opens and closes as you move the blades back and forth. It is very easy for a small piece of waste to become compressed into a position where it is not easily seen, but still able to restrict the forward travel of the blades, etc. It's worth a careful check to eliminate this possibility.
Most people tend to check for any play in the vertical slideways with the knife-block at its top travel. However, the likely outcome of any wear is that it will be greater at the lower part of the range of travel. This is due to the pressure during cutting being applied at the front of the blades, because this is where most of the cutting is done. Again it's worth a careful check to eliminate this possibility.
Although your machine is only two years old, there are things which can go wrong and contribute to extra wear. A particular possiblity is the pivot bearing at the top of the tie bar getting stuck. I didn't even know about this bearing until mine got stuck and the pedal return action stiffened. If ignored the pedal action will eventually return to normal as excess wear occurs to the vertical slideway. This excess wear can allow a small amount of horizonal play to occur during cutting which can, with the right combination of conditions cause your kind of problems. This is best checked with someone looking behind the machine to see if this pivot is still moving during operation. There is a small oil hole at the back of the tie bar crossmember for lubrication.
Do not consider removing the tie bar from below the knifeblock without advice from your Morso supplier first, as the weight of the knifeblock is supported by the tie bar. !!! VERY DANGEROUS !!!
