I've been asked to frame an A0 size print (approx 84 x 119cms) any advice would be welcome, particularly relating to glass thickness.
many thanks
large frame advice
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barrold
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strokebloke
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Learning new framing techniques!
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Re: large frame advice
Prospero is the 'Big-Jobby' man, barrold 
http://www.turnaroundartwork.co.uk
Good advice is best learned, rather than simply listened to.
Good advice is best learned, rather than simply listened to.
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framemaker
Re: large frame advice
Hi Barrold,
Jumbo mountboard for the mount and undermount, a good sized frame (70mm wide?), 3mm MDF backing, if you give it a mount of say 70mm/80mm to give a glass size of about:
990mm x 1330mm
A general rule is if it is over 1000mm x 1000mm then go upto 3mm glass, although many would not bother. If you do use 3mm then the frame size is more of an issue than anything as the weight will increase by about 3.29kg to 9.87kg (2mm glass will weigh about 6.58kg)
3mm extruded/clear cast acrylic or Artshield would be a good option.
Which ever glazing you use, get it cut to size from Wessex.
Strap hangers for hanging, directly onto wall fittings.
Jumbo mountboard for the mount and undermount, a good sized frame (70mm wide?), 3mm MDF backing, if you give it a mount of say 70mm/80mm to give a glass size of about:
990mm x 1330mm
A general rule is if it is over 1000mm x 1000mm then go upto 3mm glass, although many would not bother. If you do use 3mm then the frame size is more of an issue than anything as the weight will increase by about 3.29kg to 9.87kg (2mm glass will weigh about 6.58kg)
3mm extruded/clear cast acrylic or Artshield would be a good option.
Which ever glazing you use, get it cut to size from Wessex.
Strap hangers for hanging, directly onto wall fittings.
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prospero
- Posts: 11695
- Joined: Tue 05 Jun, 2007 4:16 pm
- Location: Lincolnshire
Re: large frame advice
Yeah. That's about on the limit for 2mm glass, although if the sheet is sound - cut clean and no nicks on the edge - I would be OK with it. Another thing is to make sure the rebate of the frame has no bits sticking up that could cause stress points. Glass will bend, but if it does it's under permanent tension and a shock could crack it.
Good frame corners are a must. A bit of over-engineering is definitely called for. It's more the area of the cut face rather than the overall width of the moulding that adds to the strength. A domed moulding will have more area to glue to/get fixings in than a deep scoop of the same width. All in all, plenty of meat in the profile. It can be difficult to get a good glue bond on large frames. The longer the rail and the more a tiny twist will make it so the entire face of the joint is not tight together. And the heftier the profile the less you can 'persaude' it together. So some extra support is desirable. Biscuits are good as they form a bridge - almost a mortise and tenon joint which increases the strength a lot. L plates are handy sometimes as even though they don't hold the joint together as such, they do protect the integrity of the glue bond.
One of the reasons I like hand-finishing is that you can put deep woodscrews across the corners if they are called for - and be able to fill the big holes made.
Good frame corners are a must. A bit of over-engineering is definitely called for. It's more the area of the cut face rather than the overall width of the moulding that adds to the strength. A domed moulding will have more area to glue to/get fixings in than a deep scoop of the same width. All in all, plenty of meat in the profile. It can be difficult to get a good glue bond on large frames. The longer the rail and the more a tiny twist will make it so the entire face of the joint is not tight together. And the heftier the profile the less you can 'persaude' it together. So some extra support is desirable. Biscuits are good as they form a bridge - almost a mortise and tenon joint which increases the strength a lot. L plates are handy sometimes as even though they don't hold the joint together as such, they do protect the integrity of the glue bond.
One of the reasons I like hand-finishing is that you can put deep woodscrews across the corners if they are called for - and be able to fill the big holes made.
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