Glass cutting help needed

[johnnymachin]

Does anybody have any tips for cutting large sheets of 2mm glass? The sheets are 48 x 36 inches.
I have a hand tool glass cutter and a keencut 4000. Foolishly I ordered them too big and am having trouble getting a clean break with either method. Any advice very welcome.

[prospero]

What sort of hand cutter are you using? I get perfect results with a simple 6-wheel hand cutter. They do vary in quality though.....

As for the Keencut, I do find that the cutter doesn't make such a clean score as the hand one. No matter where I set the pressure. I'm no Keencut expert though and that's another story.

[Jonny2morsos]

I have the pressure backed right off and have got to learn how much pressure I need to apply to get a clean cut. I always start the cut a couple of mms. below the top edge that way it does not start to break before getting to the bottom.

When I first had the Keencut I could not get on with it and continued cutting by hand but I persevered and would say I can now trim 2mm of an edge if necessary.

A good hand cutter with an oil reservoir is a good investment.

[Vince442]

I use a hand cutter with oil reservoir. The last time I ordered glass I got it from a different supplier as it was cheaper (as you do). However, it was terrible to cut, more splinters, didn't break clean etc. I thought I needed a new cutter but when I got through the new supply of glass and got onto my existing supply.....well hey presto!....clean cuts, less splinters etc

So, I would say don't always assume its the equipment you have, as it might just be the glass.

[theframer]

Try Lubricating the cutting wheel that should sort it
Dave

[misterdiy]

My glass supplier says there is a lot of Eastern European glass on the market at the moment that does not cut well. He would say that of course, but all the problems you seem to be getting are ones he relayed to me. i just on't have time to mess around with saving a few bob on glass that is sub-standard since it cost little anyway.

I use the keencut and I find it superb BUT you must get the glass cutter set right back in the slots and don't use too much pressure.

[theframingwizard]

I use my ears the most when cutting glass. It seems to be best when it sounds like velcro being pulled apart. Constant speed and pressure are good of course. Our mirror manufacturer also recommended that we tap the scored line with the back of the metal cutter and snap the glass with a short sharp motion, quickly after the glass has been scored.
Tungsten carbide wheels are way better and need less lubrication than others

TFW

Oh and if the glass is very cold it will more likely shatter, but its nice and warm in sheffield today!!

[IFGL]

You need to know what your looking to achieve.

You need a faint score with no missing bits.

If the score line is really visible and the glass is spitting you or your keencut are applying too much pressure this will be just as hard to snap as too little.

If there are bits missing in the score line then either you or your keencut are applying too little pressure .

You should be using a good quality glass cutter or using a good wheel in your keencut they do wear out.

It takes practice either way, imho it is worth spending the time on your keencut because when you get good with it your glass cutting will be faster and more accurate not to mention safer.

[prospero]

I have been tweaking the Excalibur to try to get better cuts.....

At the moment the little allen bolt is backed off nearly to it's limit - The bottom of the head just level with the body of the cutting head. At this is works sort-of OK. Not as good as by hand it has to be said. Scored by hand, the lightest touch will snap the cut. The Excalibur needs more umph to snap it and there are tiny chips along the cut. Is there a magic spot that gives perfect scores? And just how critical is the adjustment?

I would mention that I have replaced the cutting wheel.

Slightly off-topic.....

I also had a tweak with the twin-wheel cutter. I found slakening off the big retaining allen bolt and putting a piece of card in at the top to deflect the angle slightly produced much better results with MDF. Also holding the pressure lever down very firmly with the right hand. It now can shave very narrow slices off. Previously, the measurements were +1mm over (at one end anyway) and now it seems to be accurate.

[IFGL]

Yes there is a sweet spot the glass will almost break by looking at it, there are 2 adjustment Allen bolts on the glass cutter one for the pressure and one for the start point of the wheel I could better explain with pictures. my glass wheels usually last between 10 to 15 weeks (heavy use) they are only £8 ish. would anyone be interested in a excalibur 5000 adjusment guide mabee in the wikki?

Tighten the small Allen bolts on the handle just 1/4 of a turn until your material doesn't slip without holding the handle.

[IFGL]

You should be able to push the glass wheel until it is held by the last byte point on the ratchet place at the top of your glass and just let go , it should still cut perfectly.

[DCS]

I use the SILBERSCHNITT oil filled cutter, clean breaks almost* every time, even on a full length cut on 48" x 36" 2mm and 3mm stock.

I do make sure that the glass is right at the end of the bench before adding pressure for it to snap.

** Not 100% every time I must admit and usually it's the last bit I have in!

[IFGL]

I use the same one with the brass handle , excellent glass cutter, used it today to cut a 62" x 15" piece .Perfect cutting almost every time and its 14 years old .