Hi all,
I want to start joining very wide mouldings (150mm - 165mm), but am unsure how? Is there anyone out there doing this? Currently, my underpinner is capable of joining up to about 120mm. Is my only option to buy a 200mm capable underpinner? Could I join up to 120mm and finish off with a hand tool? If so, what hand tool? Your help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers, Shaun.
Help joining very wide mouldings
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shauntho
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prospero
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Re: Help joining very wide mouldings
With something this size, a biscuit joiner is a handy piece of kit. 
You should be able to get at least two slots into the moulding. Leave space on the outer edge to get v-nails in. You won't need them on the inside. Biscuit cutters are not cheap, but not hideously expensive and a good investment if you are making big frames on a regular basis.
Glue the whole frame up and use a webbing clamp to hold it all together. You have to get your stall set out and work quickly at this stage. The biscuit slots allow lateral movement to align the mitres, but hold the joints vertically. So this makes assembly easier, especially if you are working single-handed. When it's all cinched up, take the whole thing to the pinner and put v-nails in the outer edge. For a bit of extra security, add a few
steel 'L' plates on the corners. Leave it in the clamp until the glue is well set. Overnight is ideal.
If it's a plain moulding you have the option of wacking a couple of big woodscrews crossways in the corners, instead of v-nails. This only works well on quite hefty mouldings. No problem filling the big holes left if you are going to finish over it. I've even done this with finished moulding and used a plug-cutter on a scrap piece to make little discs to fill the screw holes. (This is easier if the outer edge is flat)
Welcome to the Forum btw.
You should be able to get at least two slots into the moulding. Leave space on the outer edge to get v-nails in. You won't need them on the inside. Biscuit cutters are not cheap, but not hideously expensive and a good investment if you are making big frames on a regular basis.Glue the whole frame up and use a webbing clamp to hold it all together. You have to get your stall set out and work quickly at this stage. The biscuit slots allow lateral movement to align the mitres, but hold the joints vertically. So this makes assembly easier, especially if you are working single-handed. When it's all cinched up, take the whole thing to the pinner and put v-nails in the outer edge. For a bit of extra security, add a few
steel 'L' plates on the corners. Leave it in the clamp until the glue is well set. Overnight is ideal.
If it's a plain moulding you have the option of wacking a couple of big woodscrews crossways in the corners, instead of v-nails. This only works well on quite hefty mouldings. No problem filling the big holes left if you are going to finish over it. I've even done this with finished moulding and used a plug-cutter on a scrap piece to make little discs to fill the screw holes. (This is easier if the outer edge is flat)
Welcome to the Forum btw.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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Not your average framer
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Re: Help joining very wide mouldings
A dowelling jig is another option, which can also work quite well too! The dowels are set into the mitred faces and are not seen.
A dowelling jig is relatively inexpensive to buy, but like prosperro I still prefer some nice chunky countersunk wood screws through each joint. It's just the quick, easy and foolproof way to go.
If you are using massive frame profiles, then bare wood mouldings are likely to be the main choice already, which immediately suggests handfinishing as the obvious approach and therefore concealing any countersunk woodscrews won't be a problem!
A dowelling jig is relatively inexpensive to buy, but like prosperro I still prefer some nice chunky countersunk wood screws through each joint. It's just the quick, easy and foolproof way to go.
If you are using massive frame profiles, then bare wood mouldings are likely to be the main choice already, which immediately suggests handfinishing as the obvious approach and therefore concealing any countersunk woodscrews won't be a problem!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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shauntho
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat 20 Aug, 2011 1:17 am
- Location: Australia
- Organisation: Shaun Burrage - Burrage Brothers Photogr
- Interests: Photography, Wilderness Hiking, Fishing
- Location: Echuca, Victoria, Australia
Re: Help joining very wide mouldings
Thanks heaps for the advice. I'll give both the dowelling jig and biscuit joiner a go, and see which works best for me. I also like the 'L' plate idea for added security. However, as I'm working with expensive Italian hand finished mouldings, I'm not too keen on the countersunk screws. Thanks again, you've both been a great help