Cutting bevels on 3500 micron mount board

cleeve_prints · Post by **cleeve_prints** » Thu 14 Jun, 2007 10:56 pm

Hi all,

I need some advise on cutting 3500 micron mountboard on my Ultimat gold. I don't seem to be able to get the blade to cut through the board, it appears to be bending up as it goes through. I have fitted a new blade and tried it at various depths but to no avail. I'm sure the answer is simple but it has me stumped can someone please help. The board is Arqadia Snow White 3500 micron.

Steve

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Fri 15 Jun, 2007 8:45 am

I believe there are thicker blades available which are less flexible, these are meant for thicker boards.

Have you tried doing the cut in 2 or three passes, going in about 1.5 mill at a time?

Not your average framer · Fri 15 Jun, 2007 8:29 pm

Over the years, I have discussed extra-thick mounts with Keencut (I have an Ultimat), Pete Bingham, plus various others. It does pay to discuss the results you are getting with others and to try out other peoples ideas and see if they work for you.

This is what works for me. I aim to deliberately under-cut at the corners, so I have to complete the cut from the front by eye using a single edged safety backed blade. This is because I am having to adjust the blade depth to cut the extra thick board and usually don't have enough unwanted scraps or time to mess around getting it spot on.

Next, I cut a shallow cut starting approximately 5mm or 6mm before the correct blade insertion point. This means any tendancy to hook occurs before the correct blade insertion point.

Now I adjust the blade depth to the full depth, make the final cut allowing the shallow cut to guide the blade and as the blade comes up to the correct insertion point slowly and smoothly insert the blade fully and complete the cut. The slow penetration is the big thing here as this means the blade is being subjected to the minimum force and therefore the minimum blade deviation occurs.

I use a Keencut .015" Tech-S blade (ground on one side only) and ideally use a new blade per mount which works for me, although I still get the odd unexplained hook once in a while. Everyone is different, but I find I need to be able to concentrate and take my time with such mounts, otherwise I mess up.

Hope this helps

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Fri 15 Jun, 2007 8:46 pm

Not your average framer wrote:Over the years, I have discussed extra-thick mounts with Keencut (I have an Ultimat), Pete Bingham, plus various others. .........

This is what works for me. I aim to deliberately under-cut at the corners, so I have to complete the cut from the front by eye using a single edged safety backed blade. This is because I am having to adjust the blade depth to cut the extra thick board and usually don't have enough unwanted scraps or time to mess around getting it spot on.

This is one of many areas where the Fletcher Terry comes into its own - the blade is in a magazine, you can have as many spare magazines as you wish, all pre set to different depths.

I have an Ultimat too but wish I'd bought the Fletcher Terry - CMC day will soon come!

Not your average framer · Fri 15 Jun, 2007 9:17 pm

Roboframer wrote: I have an Ultimat too but wish I'd bought the Fletcher Terry - CMC day will soon come!

John,

I still like my Ultimat and it's very helpful extras, but I would also consider the Bainbridge C&H Vantage. The construction of the sliding bearings and the cutting head are very impressive. If you ever get the chance, have a look at one and you'll see what I mean! I used to have the previous model and at times I wish I still had the use of it! If I had known where to buy the "start and finish of cut" stops which it came without I would still have it now. The accuracy of cutting even with difficult materials is amazing!

Bagel Framer · Post by **Bagel Framer** » Tue 03 Jul, 2007 1:06 pm

I followed Spit's / Steve's advice on this over the weekend when I cut a 2500 micron board, ie. I did it in two passes and it worked fine.

Incidentally, I have a Logan 750 Simplex Plus - what's this Fletcher Terry machine that's been banded around? The multiple magazine idea sounds good too....

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Fri 06 Jul, 2007 8:34 pm

Bagel Framer wrote:what's this Fletcher Terry machine that's been banded around? The multiple magazine idea sounds good too....

I love the idea of switchable magazines.

Not your average framer wrote:I still like my Ultimat and it's very helpful extras,

NYAF, how does the Ultimat score over the Fletcher kit?

Not your average framer · Fri 06 Jul, 2007 9:53 pm

Moglet wrote: NYAF, how does the Ultimat score over the Fletcher kit?

Hi Moglet,

I have used both and to be honest I very much a Keencut fan, however the Fletcher-Terry is more solid in terms of lack of movement when inserting the blade at the start of cut. It is actually a lot more difficult to produce a hooked cut on the Fletcher-Terry than on the Keencut Ultimat. I don't know if there is any difference between the Ultimat and the Ultimat gold in this regard.

Another difference between the Fletcher-Terry and the Ultimat is if you use the slideway bar for marking out for multi-aperture mounts. On the Fletcher-Terry there is no difference between where you rule you pencil line and where the blade cuts, but on the Ultimat there is a difference which is a disadvantage.

In spite of all that I still prefer the Ultimat, because:

You don't have to mess around cleaning those little wheels which the cutting head runs on.

The start of cut stop finger is mounted on the cutting head so you don't have to keep repositioning the start of cut stop as you cut each side of the mount unless the mount margin width is different.

The mount margin guide can be removed or replaced in seconds, which helps when cutting multi-aperture mounts.

The rear extension arm can be removed or replaced in seconds.

The handle with which you insert the blade is much more comfortable in use.

However, having said all that, if I was buying another mountcutter at this time I would be deciding whether to chose a Keencut Ultimat Gold or a C&H Vantage which is also a fantastic mountcutter and has a very substantial looking phospher bronze bearing on which the cutting head runs. Having owned the previous C&H model, I can assure you it's the business for accuracy and blade control.

If I had to chose between the Fletcher-Terry and the C&H Vantage - It would be the C&H - As I said I have used both.

The very slight flexibility of the plastic bearings on which the Ultimat cutting head runs is it's only negative aspect, which I can happily live with. In all other aspects the Ultimat is in my opinion the best mountcutter. It's comfortable to use, easy for maintenance and the back-up from Keencut is excellent.

Not your average framer · Fri 06 Jul, 2007 10:17 pm

I wanted to edit the previous posting, but it would not let me do it.

The point I wanted to make clear is that the differences in performance of these mountcutters are really very small. Three three I have discussed are probably the best three mountcutters available or at least of the ones which I'm aware of.

No doubt my own opinions and those of others may vary. We've all had different experiences and will all have our own view of these things. Those who really like the Fletcher-Terry will see things differently and no doubt will tell you why. BTW, there are other items from Fletcher-Terry which I would say are the best available products too!

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Fri 06 Jul, 2007 10:17 pm

Thanks, NYAF. A very valuable feature comparison!

I have an Ultimat Gold, (it was recommended by Sisslings from whom I purchased my start-up equipment). I had a go on a Fletcher machine when I did my training - limited use, I know, but my feeling was that my Keencut is less finnicky to use. It did take me a while to get the ol' noggin round the offset when cutting multi-aperture mounts, but from the advantages that you listed above, it looks like I got a good buy! (Still lusting after the switchable magazines...

)

Viz-a-viz hooking, I very rarely have a problem with it (thanks to all for advice on blades in the 3500 mountboard thread, BTW). I found that I tended to get hooks when I was cutting the dropout to make a v-groove (that could be me more than the machine!

), but I seem to have solved the problem by putting the blade into the cut position, moving it to just touch the edge of the board, and making the start of cut very slowly. (Now lusting after CMC...)

Not your average framer · Fri 06 Jul, 2007 10:26 pm

Moglet wrote:I found that I tended to get hooks when I was cutting the dropout to make a v-groove (that could be me more than the machine! ), but I seem to have solved the problem by putting the blade into the cut position, moving it to just touch the edge of the board, and making the start of cut very slowly. (Now lusting after CMC...)

That's interesting, I must try that! Usually my v-grooves are o.k., but I have hooked on the odd one without knowing why. Perhaps this is the answer.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Fri 06 Jul, 2007 10:30 pm

BTW, currently using Personna double-edged blades.

Not your average framer · Fri 06 Jul, 2007 10:47 pm

Moglet wrote:BTW, currently using Personna double-edged blades.

With what mountboard?

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Fri 06 Jul, 2007 11:19 pm

Currently using ColourMount, Arqadia main range and LJ Artique. (Thanks to joining the forum, I'm planning to migrate to ArtCare etc etc).