How to attach a fillet into a window mount?

[ChrisG]

Any tips as to how to attach a fillet moulding into the window of standard depth moutboard? I eventually used thin double sided tape along the fillet's rebate but the mitres are not as 'tight' as I would like.

[prospero]

DS tape is what most folks use. Getting them to fit snuggly is the tricky bit. If the mount is cut on a manual mountcutter then there may be some minor variation in the length of the sides - The window edges run dead parallel to the outside edges. If they are out of square then so will the window. Not noticeable in the main, but when you come to fit a fillet.......

This is my method: Cut a first long side fillet a tad generously. Offer it up and shave it down until it's a good fit. Eyeball the ends so the mitres on the ends lines up perfectly with the point on the mount bevel where the two cuts meet. When it's right, don't stick it in but first try it on the opposite side. It may be spot-on or not. Usually not. But having set the stop on the Morso (assuming you are using one), you can easily tweak the stop to cut the second long side - a gnat's longer or shorter. When you have the two long sides right stick them in place. next step is to repeat the process for the shorter sides. Bit easier now you have a more tangible point of reference with the ends of the longs sides.
Most fillets are about 3mm thick. So scraps of 3mm foamcore make a good material to level out the fillet with the back of the mount and it also further strengthens the whole issue as it butts up to the fillet holding it firmly in place. A strip of P-90 joining the packing to the fillet completes the job.

[Trinity]

Have a look at this post if you are contemplting doing a few and want to make it easy and accurate everytime:
http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5955
Still selling steadily.

[JamesC]

We have one of those quick measuring devices. A fair whack but worth it if you do many. Some bits are a bit plaggy and I noticed one of the staff have broken it somewhere down the line but it still works.

For slips plastic is quite good e.g. Lion Minerva which is sold in lengths, as it joins very easily and quickly with superglue. The flexibility probably helps a bit too. I much prefer wood frames but a slip is not important to the strength of the frame nor with a foil finish will it be any different to wood in reality looks wise. It should be cheaper too.

We have used wood in a similar fashion though and no problems. Might require a coating of glue first to seal it. Good quality glue helps and also ones with an activator.

You may need to look at your mountcutter instead as the cause e.g hooking in the corners if you mean the mitres are not tight to the edges.

[ChrisG]

Have a look at this post if you are contemplting doing a few and want to make it easy and accurate everytime:
http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5955
Still selling steadily.

Yes I'd like one. How do we go about paying?

ChrisG

[Trinity]

Just pm'd you Chris.
Keith