Switch to Foam Board
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Switch to Foam Board
I have a problem with the backing board bowing on big pic's.They look good when they leave me, but Ive had a couple come back with a gap under the mount. I've given up on back 10 and I'm going to stop using art back on big and high end job's, and switch to foam board, should I use 3ml or 5ml, do I need to use a backing board,and how is the most economical way to buy it (big or small sheets ) and which supplier offers the best value. Thanks.
Re: Switch to Foam Board
Are you using an under mount as well? If you are you shouldn't have a problem as that is free to move (expand/contract) but a backing board isn't and so it can bow, which can be a problem with some of these "conservation" backings with barrier paper, designed to eliminate the under mount.
I use Nielsen Bainbridge 5mm artcare foam board as backing (with an under mount) and have done for years, I buy it Jumbo size in packs of 25. It's not the cheapest (unless you can get a nice discount ) and I'm not sure what is. 3mm with an under mount is fine for not-so-large frames but I only go for that combination if the frame rebate won't take 5mm. Might all sound a bit extravagant but the offcuts, unlike offcuts of normal backing boards, are/can be very useful.
I use Nielsen Bainbridge 5mm artcare foam board as backing (with an under mount) and have done for years, I buy it Jumbo size in packs of 25. It's not the cheapest (unless you can get a nice discount ) and I'm not sure what is. 3mm with an under mount is fine for not-so-large frames but I only go for that combination if the frame rebate won't take 5mm. Might all sound a bit extravagant but the offcuts, unlike offcuts of normal backing boards, are/can be very useful.
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Re: Switch to Foam Board
I have been finding the same gapping problem in recent weeks.When Art Bak first came out it had a unique curve that pushed the art flat against the Mount window...will ask Wessex if they have any comments
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Re: Switch to Foam Board
As roboframer said if a undermount is used you should not have a problem, we use 1,7mm crescent mount board for the under mount and 2.2 mm kraft board as the backing and get no such problems.
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Re: Switch to Foam Board
Hi Robo. Yes I do use an undermount.Thanks for info.
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Re: Switch to Foam Board
Really interesting thread thank you. Can you explain the merits of using undermount please?
thanks,
Sharon
thanks,
Sharon
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Re: Switch to Foam Board
I stock several diferent types of backing board, because one type does not neccessarily suit every type of framing job. One of the most rigid of these is CombCor from Brittania, it's not exactly cheap, so I only use it when I feel that the need has arisen, but it is an extremely stiff backing board. CombCor is quite useful for backing deep box frames and the like where the back is otherwise unsupported apart from it's own inherent stiffness.
My whole stock of backing boards is as follows:
Solid Craft SK1, Solid Craft SK-CONS, 5mm Foamlite, 4mm Correx, CombCor MK1 and CombCor MK3.
BTW, in Devon there are a lot of old buildings which are many centuries old and some of these can cause significant issues when pictures are to hang on damp walls.
Addressing such problems when they occur is a worthwhile source of additional income and after having one picture framed and sealed to be watertight, some customers suffering with dampness issues will often bring many existing framed picures to have the same treatment.
I've been doing this for quite a few years now and as a result have gained a reputation for watertight framing, using Correx and encapsulating the glass, artwork and mounts to the Correx with Linco foil barrier tape. Those who are located in other damp parts of the country may also find this a useful source of additional income!
My whole stock of backing boards is as follows:
Solid Craft SK1, Solid Craft SK-CONS, 5mm Foamlite, 4mm Correx, CombCor MK1 and CombCor MK3.
BTW, in Devon there are a lot of old buildings which are many centuries old and some of these can cause significant issues when pictures are to hang on damp walls.
Addressing such problems when they occur is a worthwhile source of additional income and after having one picture framed and sealed to be watertight, some customers suffering with dampness issues will often bring many existing framed picures to have the same treatment.
I've been doing this for quite a few years now and as a result have gained a reputation for watertight framing, using Correx and encapsulating the glass, artwork and mounts to the Correx with Linco foil barrier tape. Those who are located in other damp parts of the country may also find this a useful source of additional income!
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
Re: Switch to Foam Board
If you are hingeing artwork on paper it should be to an under mount that is book hinged to the aperture mount, as opposed to being hinged to the aperture mount itself.rhiannon framing wrote:Can you explain the merits of using undermount please?
The under mount, apart from being allowed to move independently from the backing board, provides a barrier from acids in backings like MDF - it's the 'normal' package.
Re: Switch to Foam Board
I think we all have a lot of old buildings near us which are many centuries old, even Milton Keynes has them - the whole country is 'old' ..... and damp!Not your average framer wrote:...in Devon there are a lot of old buildings which are many centuries old and some of these can cause significant issues when pictures are to hang on damp walls. ............................... Those who are located in other damp parts of the country may also find this a useful source of additional income!
People suffering from dampness issues have far more to worry about than frames and their contents, like solving their dampness issues, which is do-able in this day and age.