Backboard

[Bracken643]

Morning all
Sorry if this sounds newbie ish but I am. I have been asked to frame a limited edition print which comes with a double mount and is hinge mounted to what looks like a backing of cardboard with a white front, all very nice so far however the depth of the sandwich is 7mm. The mould the customer would like has a rebate of 10mm I guess you have worked out my problem with the glass and a hardboard backing I now have 11mm thick sandwich to fit into a 10mm rebate. Would it be acceptable to just use the cardboard as the backing board and not use hardboard back? I use Wessex Pictures as my supplier and the mould is A109 and they don’t do a deep rebate in this mould.

[Dave]

Not sure what you mean by hardoard for backing, assume you are using MDF which could spark up a whole debate on its own... Anyway if you use a product such as art bak or corri core, the edges can be crushed using something like a burnishing tool, this often gives enough to fit.

Dave

[IFGL]

You could extend your rebate by using some small wooden strips,
the board it's hinged to is the under mount / barrier board, you should use a backing board also or you will probably end up with a bowed back and a gap between the print and mount.

[prospero]

You should regard the windowmount/undermount as an entity in itself. Ideally, the undermount should not double as the backing board. There may be exceptions to this if the framed item is of little value and you are trying to shave costs to the bone. But for 'decent' stuff a separate solid back is the thing to do.

Diddly rebates are a perennial problem. And is likely not to change. Various workarounds: As IFGL said, fix strips to the back. You can get various 5-6mm thick PSE sections from Rose&Hollis. I use a lot of them. This only works on mouldings over a certain width though, as the edge of the extender should not be visible when the frame is an the wall. R&H also do a 30mm wide bevel slip which makes a good extender with the bevel facing out. That way you can take it right to the edge. Also there is a plastic extrusion made for extending rebates. Sort of a square Z profile that laps over the sandwich and is screwed to the frame. Personally I don't like it for lots of reasons, but there it is.
If the sandwich is level or slightly pround you can bevel the backboard and fire the points at an angle. Don't go too far with that method.

But if it's a question of getting a 15mm sandwich into a 8mm rebate where the moulding is < 15mm or thereabouts, it's time to re-evaluate the design. Not impossible, but getting well and truely in embuggerance territory.

[Bracken643]

Ty guys I was thinking of the strip fitting but the only ones that Wessex do require staining however if I can get a thinner or bevelled one that would do the trick

[Trinity]

I've had good results from a 6mm square section that I but from B & Q of all places. I use another section from the timber merchant for wider mouldings - parting bead for sash windows. Either way it's glued to the back to increase the depth of the rebate and then both frame and extender are painted to match with acrylic.

[Astroimages]

He He...

That's why I stopped using A109... The double mount problem...
I know only use that with a single mount, and as a really budget frame....

[Steve N]

You are only talking about 1 mm sticking out of the back, bevel the edge of the backing board, just run around the edge with a sanding block so you can fire your tabs/staples in then tape up