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As a newbie Wizard user, I need to know the best way to design the following mount: (white apertures added in Photoshop not Wizard!)
It is made up of two layers with a float layer. It is to house 27 postcards and I need to know the best way of cutting apertures in the float layer. Is it as simple as re-loading the float layer onto the bed and cutting the apertures? If so, do I have to design a new mount to cut these and how do I position them so that the outside and the apertures fall in line with the top layers?
Hi Ed - new toy eh! Cant help specifically with Wizard - but the Valiani would cut it in one go topmost board first - then the apertures, then the reverse bevel for float (assuming I have understood the float element) - this would be controlled by specifying the cutting order to make sure the apertures were cut in the right sequence.
If i couldn't achieve it this way I would cut the float separately out of a new board - I doubt you could get the accuracy needed by using the cutout.
Hi Mark, yes, we've finally bitten the bullet and loving it so far!
Float Layer was a big ambiguous, straight forward apertures in the bottom most mount is what I need but can figure out how to design one aperture within another on the same design.
So will have to load a new board the same outside size and position the apertures using guides so they line up within the large cut out.
Coxby wrote:Float Layer was a bit ambiguous, straight forward apertures in the bottom most mount is what I need but can't figure out how to design one aperture within another, on the same design.
So will have to load a new board the same outside size and position the apertures using guides so they line up within the large cut out.
Edward,
Did you not get training when you bought your Wizard?
Surely the people you bought it from would be your first source of knowledge on how to operate the software. Only Wizard users would know the answer to your question as each brand's software is different to each other.
When I bought my second hand Gunnar Rapido, the Australian agents for Gunnar set up the machine and gave me two days of personal training in my shop. If other brands are not training owners, it is pretty darn poor in my opinion.
I can still get free phone advice, if necessary after six years of ownership and I am really surprised that you would even have to ask this question on a forum.
Yes, Wizard give training and it was very good. However, you cannot expect them to cater for every type of mount you come across in the workshop. From what Mark says, the answer lies in the form of two mount designs both of which were covered in the training, and now I know!
They have a very good support team on the telephone, but being a Saturday I thought I would get some advice from the forum to test the water first. Being only my third day on the machine, I thought I was doing quite well!!
Step 1. Drop an array of 26 apertures onto a mat, group the apertures and write down the outside size.
Step 2. Create a new mat with an aperture slightly larger than the outside size to allow for a gutter around the apertures. Dial in the border sizes and write down the mat outside size.
Step 3. Create vertical and horizontal guides inside the large aperture and contract the guides the same distance as you allowed for your gutter, in my case I allowed 10mm each side. With the measuring tape tool, measure the distance from the outside of the mat to the guide to give you your new borders.
Step 4. Create a new mat with the same outside measurements and drop in your guides. Edit the guide X and Y axis to match the new border widths in Step 3 and snap your array of apertures onto the guides.
Step 5. Tell the CMC to cut a Float Layer and use this as your mat when cutting Step 4. Your top layer and float layer with all it's apertures should fit together perfectly!
Well, it's a milestone for me and I even managed to lie in the sun for a while today
Hi Edward
you got the 8000 or the 8500?
we have an 8000
I'd have gone about it by starting out laying out the whole thing as a three layer mat with all apertures set in as three layers for design purposes - then removed the array, cut layers 3 then 2, then replaced the array (edit/undo) removed the other apertures and cut layer 1. That way no measuring incvolved and everything in registration
Your method sounds a lot easier. I am not familiar with Wizard software, but on my Gunnar, it could be done with two easy setups. Top two layers as a double mat and the bottom layer as a single mat with umpteen openings.
Registration of the two setups would not be an issue.
Os
wizard software is very comprehensive, but sometimes steers you away from the simplest way of doing things. I think Zund CMCs come with it as well, and possibly Crescenct cmcs (?)
the "undo" buton in many programs is a powerful design tool in some cases but completely overlooked until your head gets itself around the fact that you can do things with it other than correcting mistakes! It makes the machine much more versatile.
