Drinks labels

[pramsay13]

I have a sheet of drinks labels to frame. I have seen one done by a previous framer that has bubbled, presumably from a sticky board.
My first thought would be to stick it down, but now I'm a bit worried.
Any bright ideas?

[Roboframer]

Why can't it be mounted like anything else on paper (which could include dry mounting) - hinges, mounting strips, platform mount etc?

[pramsay13]

It's very thin and I imagine it will start to go wavy pretty quickly if it is just hinged.

[Roboframer]

Sometimes heavy papers can be more likely to go wavy, or even be wavy to start with, especially glossy photographic papers and sometimes something of real value on something so light it's transparent can be just fine.

I'd say that once mounted with hinges or whatever, if it's flat it should stay flat; if it doesn't then it's down to its future environment and if it isn't then maybe think about dry mounting, as long as it's of little value and/or easily replaceable, just use something more reliable than sticky board.

[Kwik Picture Framing]

Have you thought about laminating the labels and then framing them? If done well, it would be difficult to tell that it was done, but it would certainly help to keep it flat (if you're very careful not to let it bubble in the laminator, of course).

[Steve N]

Are they printed on the sheet, as a poster or are they real individual labels

If a poster, I would drymount it, should be OK if you use a vacuum press , or if you use rollers on self-adhesive boards

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[pramsay13]

It is a sheet.
The one I am taking out to replace is on a sticky board and it has bubbled a lot. It could have been hand rolled though?

[Not your average framer]

Is the back of the sheet of label coated with anything? Such as an adhesive coating?

The answer to this question may explain why the other one has lifted in places.

I would have concerns that labels coated with a water activated gum may not be the most reliable surface to dry mount, or stick onto self adhesive boards, unless you can fully remove the gum coating beforehand.

[pramsay13]

No, nothing coating the back.

[Roboframer]

Sounds like a contender for a platform mount to me but if dry mounting is an option due to lack of value/ease of replacing/lack of giving a toss by customer - why not just do that?

I don't own any fancy press, when I dry mount it's with PMA - about 5 times a year or so - thing is I'd actually charge more for that than I would for a platform mount - PMA isn't cheap!

[IFGL]

platform for the win, this is fast turning into our normal.

[prospero]

How about floating them on dark green or dark red suede? Just thought it would be nice to see the edges. And they are only little so a few tiny hinges will hold them.

[Not your average framer]

I think that it is a no brainer, if you own a dry mounting press. Personally, with anything on such thin paper, which is of no great value, or importance, I would probably dry mount a job like this and heatseal it with a dead matt film.

Quite often the printed areas on printed items can become glossy when heated during dry mounting, so the matt heatseal firm will take care of this and help enhance some of the contrast when viewed behind glass. Not all, but certain heatseal and cold laminating films may include U.V. protection, which can also be advantageous.

I did not know about certain films having U.V. protection until one supplier mentioned this to me at a spring fair about ten years ago. I have since found that I need to ask about the degree of U.V. protection when ordering, because generally such information does not appear to be included in distributors catalogues.

I often heatseal items which I intend to be on display, in order to prevent premature fading while on display. I find that this makes a big difference to the time it can be on display, without appearing to have faded.

[pramsay13]

I only have a JM26 jetmounter so I can stick it down.
This would have been my first option.
My only worry is that the previous one has bubbled.

[IFGL]

I doubt it will ripple, bubble running it through the jm26, the last one was probably not stuck down using pressure.

like roboframer we stick very few down, I just don't see the need for 99.7% (probably less than that) of pictures, other methods are quicker, cheaper and if done right stay flat.