Framing a plate - advice please

[topcat]

Hello all

I have had a customer bring in a plate that they want framing and this is something i have never framed before so i would appreciate any advice you may have to offer.

The plate in question is approximately 10" across and is not circular, sort of halfway between a circle and a square. The customer has asked for it to simply to be stuck to a backing with 'something like no more nails' and they aren't worried about it ever being taken out of the frame.

It seems quite heavy to me and does not have a totally flat back, but rather a circular rim which does not give a very large surface area for sticking things to. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations of methods for framing it or of particularly strong adhesives for fixing it to a backing.

Many thanks.

[David McCormack]

I would try and persuade your customer to go for something like this http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/Mighty ... 887,0.aspx

It makes your job easier and it means the plate can be removed in the furture (even though the customer says they're not bothered but someone else might be) and even the best glue can fail.

On another note, we often go for a walk up Humphrey Head (we live across the bay in Grange) so I can probably see your place through my binoculars

[prospero]

No More Plate more like.

I've never done a plate. But if I were faced with the prospect I think I would use one of those springy plate hangers - although you may have to do a bit of ingenious adaptation to suit the odd shape. Might even use a few sticky-fixers on the back as well, just for belt'n'braces sake.

[topcat]

Thanks both, those clips from Lion do look good David i will definitely consider those. I'll get the binocs out too!

[Roboframer]

There's one I did earlier in this topic http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=11057&f=32

But if sticking it down is the option then make the back rim flush with mount/foam board, stuck in with something nasty like evo-stick 'serious stuff' and then stick that to your mounting board, sometimes it's best to peel the surface paper away first though - and bond the mounting board to something more substantial.

[topcat]

Looks good Robo, thanks.

[Kevlar]

Hi Topcat

Having done this previously, i used 6mm MDF as backing board, faced the MDF with white mount board containing a circular hole in the centre slightly wider than the plates internal base (ie where the plate would touch the table). I then bonded the mountboard to the MDF and used silicone to bond the plate directly to the MDF. The customer was happy with this approach. The plate was sentimental in that they had used it to paint a canvas that was then transferred picture wise onto glass doors within their house. So no issues with siliconning it to the backing board and after all the silicon can always be cut off. Its very strong bonding though. No other mounts were required. Hope this helps.

[topcat]

Thanks for that Kevlar, that was the method they were asking for and i was planning on using. However after showing them the lion clips they decided to opt for those instead.

[topcat]

David - went for the clips from Lion and must say i was impressed. Easy to follow instructions, no hassle at all.

[David McCormack]

Lovely job

[prospero]

I'll second that.

[Kevlar]

Really nice job topcat, love the choice of colours