When sandwich is deeper than rebate

[John Andreae]

Any ideas about a neat and reliable way of fixing, when the frame sandwich is deeper than the rebate. Ive seen a system on a You tube video which seems to insert what looks like a little metal wedge between backing board and moulding but have not seen anything in the catalogues. I don't like having to do this but sometimes it seems necessary with for example shadow box frames.

Any ideas welcome.

John

[prospero]

I regularly fix strips of wood to the back. Rose&Hollis do obeche strip wood in a variety of sizes. This works OK if the moulding is wide enough so as to not show the edge of the extension. On narrow mouldings, say <15mm it's not really practical. I glue them and put in a few screws. It's an extra job, but what else can you do? For very deep shadow boxes you have to approach things from a different angle, but for getting say, an 12mm sandwich into an 8mm rebate it makes a good job of it. Much better than trying to bend flexible points around.

There are some plastic extrusions on the market (Lion do them) which are designed for this purpose, but I've never really liked them.

[Graysalchemy]

Simple answer is don't offer silly shallow mouldings when you have alot to go into the frame, thats what deep rebate mouldings are for.

Personally what ever you do it will always look like the wrong moulding has been choosen for the application in hand.

[Steve N]

You have not said by how much the Sandwich is sticking out of the back of the frame, if it's only by about 2mm, you could fire the staples in at an angle.
If it's more than 2mm you could try these from Lion http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/FrameT ... 508,0.aspx

[Roboframer]

If it is only by 2mm or so you could pin and seal everything bar the backing board in to the frame and then cut the backing board to the outside size of the frame (less a bit) and stick/staple it to the frame.

[StevenG]

I'd go with Robo's idea - I've done the same myself actually in the past when the situation arose (actually, it was something I didn't measure properly ). It looks quite well actually when finished

[Glimpse]

I've just completed a reframe of an embroidery where the customer wanted to keep the frame. The embroidery was wrinkled so needed stretching over foam which increased the 'sandwich' depth.

As described above, I cut the backing board slightly larger than the aperture and used flexi-points hammered vertically into the frame and bent over. Once taped up, it's going nowhere.

B&Q sell strip wood in various sizes for £1-£2 a length. I keep a few of these in stock for building up rebates. A joiner friend (when he remembers) also saves any long strips left over when rebating doors etc on his bench saw.

[Trinity]

I visited a framer in Holland last year and all of his frame packages had a back cover of dark solid coloured mountboard right to a mm of the extremities on the moulding fixed with 1/3" gold coloured tacks at inch centres - and by did he wack them in quick. Equally as good as the tape for looks and can give you an extra few mm.

Gray's right on the choice of moulding but I also get lengths of stripwood from b & q to increase the depth, then paint both that and the rear of the moulding. As long as it's not overblown I'm ok with this especially if it's using the 25p / ft stuff.

[Not your average framer]

There are plenty of deeper rebate mouldings about. Usually they cost a little more, but the extra cost can still be very affordable in many cases. Choosing the right moulding to start with, will often make jobs that need deeper rebates much quicker and easier to complete, leading to more profitable use of your time.

Roboframer's suggestion is a good one for jobs where it is a practical solution, because it does not usually involve any extra cost, or time and does not interupt the normal work flow. The finished result can look very good too!

[John Andreae]

Thanks for all replies- very useful.