Use of 'flexi tabs'

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 10 Nov, 2007 10:33 pm

Got a link?

Not your average framer · Sat 10 Nov, 2007 10:44 pm

Roboframer wrote:Got a link?

Here it is John,

http://www.roberthorne.co.uk/SD/product ... rod_id=251

http://www.roberthorne.co.uk/productand ... df/HFD.PDF

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 10 Nov, 2007 11:06 pm

Thanks for that Mark - and sorry for taking the P - just sometimes I feel it rude not to

Now I need to go compare with PEL - and see how it works out overall after carriage seeing as I need to make a PEL order anyway!

Not your average framer · Sat 10 Nov, 2007 11:49 pm

Roboframer wrote:Thanks for that Mark - and sorry for taking the P - just sometimes I feel it rude not to

Hi John,

No problem! BTW, the prices I was quoted were over the phone. The sales staff seem to be better informed and quote different prices to the website.

Not your average framer · Mon 12 Nov, 2007 9:00 pm

Framer Dave wrote:What are your thoughts on putting a final layer of mount board on the outside, assuming the rebate depth will allow? The backing will still add support to the mount package, fill the rebate and the extra piece of mount board will stand up better to abuse. And looks better, in my opinion.

Hi Dave,

I asked the FATG about this issue in connection with the GCF exam and was told that if used in conjuction with a 1100 micron or greater thickness of undermount that they consider it to be acceptable.

This is of particular interest to me as during training at the govenments expense, they also kindly paid to me to take the GCF exam. I was all set to take it, but then I had a heart attack and the GCF got put on the back burner.

Personally I prefer to include an external layer of one of the denser and therefore stiffer white core mountboards such as Arqadia or Colourmount just to give the foamboard some extra protection too!

This will not be a problem for me as I am in the process of reviewing my range of mouldings and trying to maximise the number of mouldings with deep rebates.

Johnny9 · Post by **Johnny9** » Tue 13 Nov, 2007 8:21 pm

Guys,

your info will be invaluable to me, I have noticed you have discussed a few things here now, so just wanted a little advice.....

I will be framing my own stuff to start, and then progressing onto friends & then customers... Here below is what materials I was thinking of using......

Moulding

2mm Float Glass or Schott Mirogard

Mountboard

Then first I was going to use MDF, but have been pushed towards using Art-bak. (Good Idea)

Then I was going to use a Fletcher Framemaster Rigid Tabs, but again I have been advised on using a Fletcher Fleximaster???

One of my issues is will the Art-bak be strong & rigid enough?
Should I use double sheets or another product as well?

Should I go for Rigid or Flexi tabs????

Please feel free to give me any advice on this, as I want to get this right....

Thanking you in advance

johnny9

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Tue 13 Nov, 2007 8:26 pm

You should have both - rigid for 'normal' jobs that fit within the rebate and flexible for jobs that are not quite flush where a rigid tab would just stick up in the air - also for readymade frames - but the manual guns are not too clever for RMFs.

Johnny9 · Post by **Johnny9** » Fri 16 Nov, 2007 7:51 am

Guys,

I'm not wanting to hijack things, but if somone could please help with a few points I brought up, i would be very grateful......

markw · Post by **markw** » Fri 16 Nov, 2007 8:42 am

Johnny9 wrote:Guys,

your info will be invaluable to me, I have noticed you have discussed a few things here now, so just wanted a little advice.....

I will be framing my own stuff to start, and then progressing onto friends & then customers... Here below is what materials I was thinking of using......

Moulding

2mm Float Glass or Schott Mirogard

Mountboard

Then first I was going to use MDF, but have been pushed towards using Art-bak. (Good Idea)

Then I was going to use a Fletcher Framemaster Rigid Tabs, but again I have been advised on using a Fletcher Fleximaster???

One of my issues is will the Art-bak be strong & rigid enough?
Should I use double sheets or another product as well?

Should I go for Rigid or Flexi tabs????

Please feel free to give me any advice on this, as I want to get this right....

Thanking you in advance

johnny9

Moulding - yep good idea
Glass - Its context related - I would assume that the majority of jobs would be standard 2mm float.
Mountboard - we all have our preferences - mine is Bainbridge.
Fixing - If your using a hand fixer then go for rigid tabs - But Roboframers answer is right - you need both.
Artbak is fine for all but the largest jobs.

The other essential part of your workshop is experience - best not gained by practicing on customers work - so stick to your own work for now - and invest in some training - it will pay dividends. It also pays to invest in the best kit you can afford.

Johnny9 · Post by **Johnny9** » Sat 17 Nov, 2007 5:05 pm

Thanks Mark,

I have a few sheets of Art-Bak from a supplier, but as I've not used it to date, just wondered if it was strong enough, don't want it bowing in the middle on larger pieces..... It maybe a silly question, but it is only thin, I want to use something other than MDF, but the strength of the backing board is bugging me a little....
Maybe I'm being a little pedantic, but just want to get this right from the start......
I have heard a few people talking about foamboard, not used or seen it, so I will try to get some as well, just after a little reasurance really

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sat 17 Nov, 2007 6:54 pm

Artbak has a natural bow, you face it into the artwork so that it presses the whole shebang together. It works well on movie posters, so there should be no problem.

If you have the rebate depth and want a really tough backing, you could consider hardboard, along with an extra sheet of mountboard as a seperator to keep any nasty brown stuff off the artwork.

Not your average framer · Sat 17 Nov, 2007 8:56 pm

Johnny9 wrote:I have a few sheets of Art-Bak from a supplier, but as I've not used it to date, just wondered if it was strong enough, don't want it bowing in the middle on larger pieces..... It maybe a silly question, but it is only thin, I want to use something other than MDF, but the strength of the backing board is bugging me a little....

Hi Johnny,

There is more than one type of Art-bak and also more than one type of CorriCor. CorriCor Mk 3 is a double fluted version which has an extra corrogated core and gives a bit extra stiffness and impact resistance. As far as I know Art-bak should also do something similar.

I don't think there are any particular guidelines regarding the maximum size with which it is o.k. to use this sort of board, but I have often used it with large posters where price is an issue and found it to be o.k.

I stock two different versions of CorriCor, which are the Mk 1 and the "white both sides" conservation one. I deliberately don't use the Mk 3 because of the water-resistant coating, which I don't like to use with gummed paper tape. For some unexplained reason the white conservation board is incredibly stiff compared to the other.

I guess at the end of the day, it's what you personally prefer. Why not request some samples, or buy a sheet of each one that your supplier stocks and decide which is best while using them.