The Framers Forum

No that is not what I meant the window mount and the undermount are supposed to be the same thickness, but the limited rebate depth fores the use of a thinner undermount thickness, so there's a trade off. Technically less protection at the rear. Can you mitigate that lower level of protection, without increasing back to an unacceptably thickness. Yes, you can, add a Mylar barrier.

Don't worry, there never was any intended criticism, just suggesting a little trick, which may come in handy in the future, that's all.

Thanks all. I've got a good idea now.

What about posters? Would they get the same treatment?

As a general 'Rule of Thumb' everything you put in a frame should have a 'Barrier Board' behind it, to protect it, but as I said in another thread, "there are no rules , only personal opinions " so it depends if you want to earn yourself a good reputation

girlfromkent wrote: Sun 17 May, 2020 2:18 pm Thank you everyone for the replies.

Can anyone share a photo?

If nothing is to be stuck to the front of the artwork (perfectly understandable) then how is the artwork secured to the undermount?

Look in your Guild Study Guide and you will see “ T hinges”.

Thanks Stephen.

I can't afford to join the Guild at the mo so no study guide.

I understand T hinges now. But with the posters I'm doing there isn't enough room for them, as the poster fills most of the mount package.

Any advice on how to proceed in that case?

Buy one of Pete Binghams books.
They are cheap as chips on a site like AbeBooks.co.uk

Annabel Rushton "conservation framing" has a good section on hinges. I use y hinges a fair bit.

you don't need to be a member to buy the study guide - the idea being if you use the guide to pass the exam and become commercially successful you can then afford to join the guild.