Mountcutting blades

[Not your average framer]

The bench has been flattened and I appear to not have any problems now. Also I have just received some single sided blade samples from Keencut which I think are an improvement too. I was suprised to find that I needed to re-calibrate the cutter to suit the new blades, (Not something that I would have expected).

I think this has been a good exercise in many ways as it has made me stop and have a good hard look at so many different issues which never get considered, including our whole way in which we operate.

My thanks to all.

[patrickleeland]

I tend to like the single sided blades. Over here we have to thicknesses for blades, 1500 or .1500 then the other is 1200 or .1200 I am not sure what measurement is used. I like the later blade. They are thinner and go thru most mats better, specially if you are using mounts that are double thick-eight ply mounts.

They have less drag and cut cleaner. I have found when I got hooks that the mountblades were the 1500 0r .1500. And do make sure the bench is level with support throughout the mountcutter.


PL

[kev@frames]

we used to use the 0.15 (tech D) and found these were great for general use, but we had better results on 2000 and 3000 micron board, foamcore etc, if we swapped them out for .080 blades.

I found after several years of cutting lots of mounts (100s at a time, sometimes, for artists and photographers) by hand that the cutter was best at about 45 degrees, and this eliminated a lot of the neck strain, shoulder strain etc and saved the back a bit. Although having a mountcutter, then two of them, at this angle certainly did "crowd" the workshop, and extension support arms were essential on BOTH sides. I tried, but never got on with, the wall mounted method too.

Its a sort of juggling act between ergonomics, as we raised the height of all our workbenches a few years back, as a couple of taller and (surpisingly) younger members of staff were obviously already having back trouble, but this meant that the normal sized people (like me) were going tippy-toes to reach the end of the mount cutter when it was flat on the bench if you worked from the end!

[markw]

At 5'4" I have all sorts of problems with mount cutters - wall mounting proved to work well - but even then I would have to use a box to reach the top cut on large mounts - oh how I appreciate the CMC.

[Martin Harrold]

Hi:

Glanced at this thread - got a bit bored checking pages of our new cat.

How many of you have tried stropping a new blade before you fit it into the mountcutter ?

Hold the new blade and wipe it back and forth a few times on a flat piece of mountboard, like a windscreen wiper blade. This action with the slightly abrasive surface of the board polishes the edge in a way no machine can.

You'll often find that it cuts better and lasts longer.

[Merlin]

A good point Martin

One that I had completely forgotten about since the CMC arrived.

You showed me that little trick when I did the GCF with you guys.

It really does work and stopped a lot of the surface paper ripping on the first couple of cuts with a new blade.

[Roboframer]

I've had a reply from Richard Clarke, which I will copy, edit and paste below.
============================================
Can't seem to get on your forum thingy. Until I manage to register, could you pass on that I would be very happy to give personal advice at my 'Framers Clinic'

('Clarke's Clinic') which i will be holding on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, on the Picture Business stand at the Spring Fair.

Oh dear!

I wonder what the problem can possibly be?

I feel an urge to help out a fellow framer and all round good guy.

I mean he IS a fellow .... and .... isn't he?

Or is he in it just for what he gets out?

No criticism, just a jenwin question.

So - as I seem to be one of the chosen few on TPB forum, I will cut and paste this topic on their forum, then all he has to do is simply click to read.


OK - a bit more than that to answer, but we can talk him through that on TPB forum too.

So - Richard?

[John]

How many of you have tried stropping a new blade before you fit it into the mountcutter ?

I can't believe that I'm just hearing this tip for the first time. Perhaps it should be printed on the packaging.

This also may answer a question that has been bothering me for years: "Why is it that a brand new blade does not glide through mountboard as easily as a blade that has already made a few cuts?"

When the Morso blades are replaced with freshly sharpened ones it is immediately noticeable how much easier it is to use, the new blades seem to glide through even the hardest moulding with so little effort. However changing the mountcutter blade often has the opposite effect, more noticeable in the straight cut rather than the bevel.

[foxyframer]

We use Personna .012 blades. Never a problem, but always run through a piece of scrap card first to get rid of the light lubricant. Oily mark in the first corner otherwise.

Happy New Year everyone, if it's not too late.