Keencut oval 6

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muffinski
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Keencut oval 6

Post by muffinski »

I recently picked up a second hand oval 6. Does anyone know if there should be anything on the rotating table part that you place the mount board on. I have bare metal with a few cut marks. The reason I ask is that the clamps do not seem to hold the mount board down and I wonder if there should a sheet of something to raise the mount board you cut to make the clamps more effective?
Roboframer

Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by Roboframer »

3mm glass cut to drop in neatly. You'll find the manual here http://www.keencut.com/uk/manuals.aspx
muffinski
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by muffinski »

Thanks robo. The instructions mention a printed grid which I do not have, how important is this or will the Centre arm make up for this?
Roboframer

Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by Roboframer »

It's a long time since I used one, I do have one under my bench but it only gets dragged out for oval/circular glass that my hand-held cutter can't handle. I only remember using it to check on the centre pointer, as per the manual; maybe Keencut will sell you one.
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JohnMcafee
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by JohnMcafee »

A piece of graph paper of the correct size might be dificult to find, however a piece of wrapping paper - even wallpaper - with a square grid (tartan, gingham?) pattern would be a good substitute. Rule a couple of diagonal lines, add a couple of arrows to indicate the direction of rotation, and you are good to go.
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muffinski
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by muffinski »

Finally picked up a piece of 3mm glass for the oval 6, slightly short on the horizontal so filled the gap with mount board. Numerous mount board and methods tried including double sided tape :oops: to hold the mount down whilst cutting, but I have finally worked out how the clamp system works, hooray. Now my brain is frazzled so please excuse me if this is a really obvious, but how does one cut double mounts on the oval 6?
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prospero
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by prospero »

Keep the differential setting the same and increase/decrease the minor axis setting x2 the reveal according to if you cut the top or bottom mount first. Then it's a question of eyeball to stick them together keeping a consistent reveal.

btw. The clamp system is a bit carp. I normally cut ovals in slightly oversize boards so I can trim them down to an equal margin. (I can never get them dead centre). But this allows you to tack the boards down with masking tape. A bit across each corner does the trick. You can sometimes even peel off the tape without leaving a mark. Makes less of a mark then the clamps nonetheless.
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by Not your average framer »

prospero wrote:(I can never get them dead centre)
I can't either! Wouldn't it be nice to have a CMC!
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prospero
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by prospero »

:lol: Where would I pile all the rubbish?

I bet every framer with an Oval 6 finds it invaluable as a convenient dumping ground. :roll:
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muffinski
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by muffinski »

Cheers prospero, I need to mainly do circles for my projects and its starting to become a real pain in the derrière. I have a hand held fletcher with inconsistant results and I am thinking of trying the logan. The difference I can see between the two is on the fletcher you have to judge how far to push the blade on each revolution where as the logan clicks into place on each step. I am thinking this might provide more consistant results with the right blade depth on each turn. I have been having problems with the oval 6 at the start stop part of the circle. I am finding this part of the circle is dawn inwards and then back out, bit like the top of an apple. Have you had any experience like this?
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by Not your average framer »

muffinski wrote:I am finding this part of the circle is dawn inwards and then back out, bit like the top of an apple.
It can happen sometimes. Part of the solution is to avoid pressing down too hard. Start the cut with the blade resting on the area which will be the cut out. Let the blade run around with no pressure other than the weight of the mechanism and allow a full revolution of the table and the blade to pass beyond the point where it completes the circle before applying any pressure.

The correct pressure is a matter of practice, but as a rough guide it should take about three revolutions of the table after you start applying pressure to cut through the mountboard.

With practice you can do some really neat things with the oval 6, which look more difficult than they really are!
Mark Lacey

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muffinski
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by muffinski »

Mark what can I say, I have just tried your recommendations and this has resolved the apple issue :clap: thanks alot for your help.
Not your average framer
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by Not your average framer »

That's what this forum is all about! I'm glad to have been able to help.
Mark Lacey

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prospero
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by prospero »

I did this one day just for bedevilment.

Image

How I managed it I do not know, but I'm betting I couldn't do it again. :Slap:
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muffinski
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by muffinski »

Wow what a great job, so when can I book an oval 6 day training with you then....
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prospero
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Re: Keencut oval 6

Post by prospero »

It'll take more than 6 days. :giggle:
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