Reverse bevel
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Reverse bevel
Ok I have been looking at all the topics on this subject and am getting a bit confused. I accept Roboframers method of dialling out the over cut and cutting the mount face up. I also seen the video of the reverse bevel stop on a keencut ultimat gold utube video. I have the new Futura mount cutter and as I understand it the problem with the reverse bevel is that there is not a scale for cutting the margin accurately from the bevel side going right. can I get one of the self adhesive measuring scales as seen on this forum used for the Morso and stick this above the straight cut gage but starting at the bevel blade going right? God that doesn't sound right hope you can understand this post.
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Re: Reverse bevel
Just get a test bit of mount board, set the side stop to required width, draw a light pencil line, then check to see size as the tip of blade touches the pencil line, will be approx 4/5mm, ie top and bottom stop at +4 or 5mm, then cut it, no over or undercut and you are there, turn it over and pop the middle out with a spare mt cutter blade
Remember your additions for top and bottom and you can lose the pencil
Remember your additions for top and bottom and you can lose the pencil
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri 05 Jul, 2013 5:48 pm
- Location: Maidstone
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Re: Reverse bevel
so cut it with the front up or as usual facing down ? also need to cut 3 apertures in one peace any ideas
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- Posts: 365
- Joined: Fri 29 Oct, 2010 11:59 pm
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- Interests: cars
Re: Reverse bevel
Front up, if you are doing multiple apertures , best to draw it out lightly with pencil.
Is this to add a mountboard slip?
Is this to add a mountboard slip?
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri 05 Jul, 2013 5:48 pm
- Location: Maidstone
- Organisation: Bracken framing
- Interests: Rugby,golf, framing, reading
Re: Reverse bevel
Yes I am going to add a silver slip/fillet hopefully lol
Re: Reverse bevel
This is how I do it. Which isn't often.
Set the margin guide 3mm less than you want the margin. Place board as if you were doing a std bev and run pencil along the cutter bar on all sides. Set the stops +2mm. Place the board in so that the dropout will be on your left (the wrong road round in other words) and eyeball the cut along the pencil line.
With a bit of luck you get perfect results. This is on a C&H. Different machines might need a bit of fine tuning, but test of offcuts until you get the right allowances and write them on a bit of paper and pin to the wall.
Set the margin guide 3mm less than you want the margin. Place board as if you were doing a std bev and run pencil along the cutter bar on all sides. Set the stops +2mm. Place the board in so that the dropout will be on your left (the wrong road round in other words) and eyeball the cut along the pencil line.
With a bit of luck you get perfect results. This is on a C&H. Different machines might need a bit of fine tuning, but test of offcuts until you get the right allowances and write them on a bit of paper and pin to the wall.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri 05 Jul, 2013 5:48 pm
- Location: Maidstone
- Organisation: Bracken framing
- Interests: Rugby,golf, framing, reading
Re: Reverse bevel
Thanks guys sorted it and found cut face up, add 6mm to start cut and 2mm to stop and bingo. Just need to perfect the steady scalpel bit at the end or I end up with a overcut due to slipping.