Aperture mounts and box frames
Aperture mounts and box frames
I don't like the look of a window/aperture mount around a three-dimensional object..... or a shirt etc; I think a lot of the time it's done to conceal a box but I, if I can't find a suitable moulding with a rebate deep enough, pretty much always make a box that the frame sits in (or on) instead of vice-versa - a box seated in the frame rebate poking out the back of the frame - which I call the 'cuckoo clock effect'
Bad photo below that my son posted on facebook - I did this for his F-I-L's 60th. (I like plenty of space around things too)! No box, just F board spacers.
I think if that had a window mount as well, it would look pants; I also think many would put the badge and/or the title in a window mount and also think that would look pants - how about you? Or do you think this looks pants anyway? I wouldn't be offended.
(That top slip on the badge looks wonky - oo-er - hope it's just the photo!)
Bad photo below that my son posted on facebook - I did this for his F-I-L's 60th. (I like plenty of space around things too)! No box, just F board spacers.
I think if that had a window mount as well, it would look pants; I also think many would put the badge and/or the title in a window mount and also think that would look pants - how about you? Or do you think this looks pants anyway? I wouldn't be offended.
(That top slip on the badge looks wonky - oo-er - hope it's just the photo!)
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Eh, is that not what you've just done to the badge?Roboframer wrote:I don't like the look of a window/aperture mount around a three-dimensional object...
But I do like it
Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
The badge is indeed in its own aperture - I wanted a 'green beret' colour to back it with, but not for the whole backing. But I'm talking about a window mount around the whole thing with the badge and/or the title in, spaced from the backing as opposed to on the board the dagger is mounted on.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
looks good, and you have done one of the most important things of all, that is to allow light in, often objects are placed in frames that are far to small or the mount is to close casting a shadow over the item, this is often made to look much worse when a mount is used and not closed off so you can see under it from any angle other than head on.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
It’s hard to tell from the picture, but is it like a framed tray with the dagger resting on top, or is the dagger embedded halfway into the mount by means of a cleverly cut dagger shaped aperture?
I also like to see a bit of space between object and frame, but have noticed an odd effect: That while the frame looks more pleasing as the mount size increases, there is always an optimum size, or tipping point, beyond which it quite suddenly becomes OTT. Sometimes it can take as little as a quarter of an inch extra to go from looking superbly well balanced to looking a bit off.
Sorry, but in this case I think the whole effect could be improved with the addition of say a two and a half inch mount (with fillet) to break up that vast sea of beige.
I also like to see a bit of space between object and frame, but have noticed an odd effect: That while the frame looks more pleasing as the mount size increases, there is always an optimum size, or tipping point, beyond which it quite suddenly becomes OTT. Sometimes it can take as little as a quarter of an inch extra to go from looking superbly well balanced to looking a bit off.
Sorry, but in this case I think the whole effect could be improved with the addition of say a two and a half inch mount (with fillet) to break up that vast sea of beige.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Funnily enough I've started showing and offering both to customers when they are looking for a 3D object (mainly football top).
They can have either a frame with a window mount or one with matching spacers.
Most people are choosing the window mount, even though I probably prefer one with matching spacers so I am gently prodding them towards that.
Overall I like this frame, but probably agree with JohnMc that there is a lot of colour surrounding the items, although maybe it doesn't look so strong in real life.
They can have either a frame with a window mount or one with matching spacers.
Most people are choosing the window mount, even though I probably prefer one with matching spacers so I am gently prodding them towards that.
Overall I like this frame, but probably agree with JohnMc that there is a lot of colour surrounding the items, although maybe it doesn't look so strong in real life.
Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
I don't often do 3D objects. But I know what ya mean. Putting a window mount close to the glass means it fulfils a different purpose to that when used on paper art. To me it's a bit of a neither-on-thing-or-the-other-concept. On a technical level I don't like the fact that there is nothing behind the mount. On a widish one it could go wavy. Also the void behind can be off putting.
I like to use a moulding as a spacer in cases like this. You can still get the olde 'box' mouilding, although only in smaller sizes. That's the stuff that looks like a 4. It creates a nice sloped side to the box and as it's narrow at the top you don't see the face. You can stick paper/mb to it to match the backing, or paint it to blend in with the frame. The max depth available is around an inch, but I've got old bits that are 2" or more deep.
The dagger frame works well for me as the spacers look part of the frame. The 'windows' have fillets so they are more like little frames within the bigger frame than apertures. Also no voids behind.
I like to use a moulding as a spacer in cases like this. You can still get the olde 'box' mouilding, although only in smaller sizes. That's the stuff that looks like a 4. It creates a nice sloped side to the box and as it's narrow at the top you don't see the face. You can stick paper/mb to it to match the backing, or paint it to blend in with the frame. The max depth available is around an inch, but I've got old bits that are 2" or more deep.
The dagger frame works well for me as the spacers look part of the frame. The 'windows' have fillets so they are more like little frames within the bigger frame than apertures. Also no voids behind.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Dagger resting on top held with clear film straps, there's a skinny triangle of black foam board under the blade to prevent roll.JohnMcafee wrote: is it like a framed tray with the dagger resting on top, or is the dagger embedded halfway into the mount by means of a cleverly cut dagger shaped aperture?
I'd not have a problem with an aperture plus mount slip around the dagger, maybe with a slightly darker background, but I would also want to keep the apertures above and below - that would mean the space required between apertures would make it all longer unless I decreased the outer margins. I worked to my golden rule of at least 3" away from widest points, which was the badge and title aperture, but sometimes I include small apertures in that minimum 3" space - I just liked how this looked laid out before I cut anything and once done, if something looks too big/wide, it can always be broken up and cut down; if it looks cramped then that's a complete new frame job.
The beige is actually a battleship grey - apart from the green of a beret I couldn't think of any other R Marine colours bar ceremonial/regimental ones, I wanted this to stay "Combat".
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
How about a V groove around the complete group (including the text box below?
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Maybe it looks better head on. I'm happy with the space left and right of the dagger, if anything I'd not bottom weight it if I did it again.
But I'd rather have twice as much space around it than a window mount around the whole thing and spaced from the backing.
But I'd rather have twice as much space around it than a window mount around the whole thing and spaced from the backing.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Erm, posted that on my phone and it was the right way up!
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
It's the right way up for me (iPhone) , and I think the proportions are spot on
Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
I would have mounted the dagger pointing down. But that's a fine point.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Understated but impressive.....
Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
Pointing up is the correct way, as per RM arm patches etc. I was given an assortment of patches, badges, a beret and this dagger and the only stipulation was the dagger must be included and it must point upwards. (I framed the beret and one of the patches separately)
I searched google images - I should have done this in the first post .....
Take that green mount away and put the title apertures on the backing board and it would look far better ... but the frame would still be much too close to things for me. You (well I anyway) see everything in one hit, including the frame and even with wider margins the dagger would still be in that little 'coffin'.
I searched google images - I should have done this in the first post .....
Take that green mount away and put the title apertures on the backing board and it would look far better ... but the frame would still be much too close to things for me. You (well I anyway) see everything in one hit, including the frame and even with wider margins the dagger would still be in that little 'coffin'.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
I like the look of that Robo.
Here's an image of one that I did - in memorial of my best mate... Forgive the lighting.
Here's an image of one that I did - in memorial of my best mate... Forgive the lighting.
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Re: Aperture mounts and box frames
I think the silver framed job looks more "bespoke", than the one with the green mount, which looks, to me, more "trade framed"...
Pete...
Pete...