Framing a Cross Stitch picture
- Twin Peaks
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Sun 15 Jul, 2007 2:45 pm
- Location: Pontesbury, Nr. Shrewsbury
- Organisation: Home sweet home
- Interests: Music (Hendrix, Zep, Blues - you get the idea), Pre-Raph Art, Photography
- Location: Pontesbury, Shrewsbury
Framing a Cross Stitch picture
Being new to the business, I have a customer who wants a small cross stitch picture (about 6inches by 4 inches) framed in an oval mount. I have seen in books different techniques but was wondering what forum members recommend from their experience.
-
Roboframer
-
JFeig
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Thu 23 Sep, 2004 8:31 pm
- Location: Detroit, Michigan USA
- Organisation: minoxy, LLC
- Interests: non-fiction knowledge
- Contact:
In about the last 24 years, I have stretched possibly 2-3 oval textiles to fit into an oval frame.
The method I used was to cut an oval mounting board cut out of foam center board covered with a 4 ply board......... cut to allow for the fabric to be rolled over the edge and still fit in the frame. The textile is then stretched with lacing thread on the back to hold the art at the proper tension.
The method I used was to cut an oval mounting board cut out of foam center board covered with a 4 ply board......... cut to allow for the fabric to be rolled over the edge and still fit in the frame. The textile is then stretched with lacing thread on the back to hold the art at the proper tension.
Jerome Feig CPF®
http://www.minoxy.com
http://www.minoxy.com
- Bill Henry
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Wed 28 Mar, 2007 8:38 pm
- Location: Litchfield, NH USA
- Organisation: Not so much - it's kind of messy.
- Interests: Dry mounting dog hair, counting age spots on old people, playing chess with wood elves, scheming to take over the world.
- Location: Litchfield, NH USA
- Contact:
For an oval-oval, we generally use needlepoint board (Crescent 11 W, I think). Cutting it is a b***h, however.
Once it is cut, find the exact top and bottom and the exact sides of the oval backing and mark the edge with a pencil.
Find the exact center, top and bottom and sides of your cross stitch and place a basting stitch at those points. Attach the X-stitch to the backing at those points as usual (we tend to use staples). Once you’ve got the cross stitch aligned and secured at those four points, the rest is easy; just keep the “rows” and “columns” of the piece horizontal and vertical (by eye) and continue with the stapling (or whatever).
Its easier to do than to explain.
Once it is cut, find the exact top and bottom and the exact sides of the oval backing and mark the edge with a pencil.
Find the exact center, top and bottom and sides of your cross stitch and place a basting stitch at those points. Attach the X-stitch to the backing at those points as usual (we tend to use staples). Once you’ve got the cross stitch aligned and secured at those four points, the rest is easy; just keep the “rows” and “columns” of the piece horizontal and vertical (by eye) and continue with the stapling (or whatever).
Its easier to do than to explain.
Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent! – Porky Pine
-
Not your average framer
- Posts: 11008
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Here's one way of stretching a cross-stitch on an oval support to fit into an oval frame without a mount. Cut an oval support out of 5mm foamboard, then cut a slightly larger oval cut-out in another piece of 5mm foamboard. Mark the centre of the oval support with a pencil. This will be helpful later when you are lacing it, so that all your lacing threads will cross this point.
Lay the oval cut-out on top of the cross-stitch and adjust the position as though you are mounting it. Now whilst keeping the cross-stitch and the oval cut-out in alignment firmly press the oval support and the cross-stitch together into the cut-out.
If you have got the difference in the size of the support and the cut-out right, it will be a jam tight fit and the front of the cross-stitch will be lightly tensioned and flat. Now carefully fold and pleat the outside of the cross-stitch to lay as flat as possible and lace across the back from all around so that the lacing crosses at the centre. When finished remove and discard the outer cut-out.
It's a bit fiddly to do and takes more time than you expect sometimes. It seems easier the second time. I still wish customers would have it in a mount so it can go on a rectangular support. There is a fair bit of agro factor to be considered when pricing to do this!
Unfortunately, once they know you can do it, they'll be back for more!
Lay the oval cut-out on top of the cross-stitch and adjust the position as though you are mounting it. Now whilst keeping the cross-stitch and the oval cut-out in alignment firmly press the oval support and the cross-stitch together into the cut-out.
If you have got the difference in the size of the support and the cut-out right, it will be a jam tight fit and the front of the cross-stitch will be lightly tensioned and flat. Now carefully fold and pleat the outside of the cross-stitch to lay as flat as possible and lace across the back from all around so that the lacing crosses at the centre. When finished remove and discard the outer cut-out.
It's a bit fiddly to do and takes more time than you expect sometimes. It seems easier the second time. I still wish customers would have it in a mount so it can go on a rectangular support. There is a fair bit of agro factor to be considered when pricing to do this!
Unfortunately, once they know you can do it, they'll be back for more!
- Twin Peaks
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Sun 15 Jul, 2007 2:45 pm
- Location: Pontesbury, Nr. Shrewsbury
- Organisation: Home sweet home
- Interests: Music (Hendrix, Zep, Blues - you get the idea), Pre-Raph Art, Photography
- Location: Pontesbury, Shrewsbury
