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Do you think the mount in this photo has been made by the framer or can you buy them ready made? I was planning to make something similar with some wide flat barewood moulding, fill the corners and then paint it but I like the curved corners and smooth finish on the one in the image and am not sure I would be able to reproduce it. The shop didn't know who had done the framing.
BTW - my equipment is now all installed in the new workshop. I dismantled the Excalibur, protected the cutters with bubble wrap and handywrapped the legs against the body. The move went very smoothly and it was a good exercise to re-assemble and set up the machines myself.
Arqadia do a moulding similar about 75mm wide though the bevel on that seems a steeper angle. Just joint fill sand and paint, though you will need a lot of base levels in either gesso or 'ripple' paint to get a good smouth finish.
It looks like a gesso'd plain moulding to me. Rose&Hollis do a 70mm wide flat moulding with a bevel. If it doesn't have a rebate them I'm 99% sure that's the one.
As AG says you need a lot of coats of gesso to build up the radiused corner and seamless mitre. A quicker way is to first fill the grain with polyfilla and jam a bit of filler into the corner and smooth off with a wet fingertip. When it's dry, sand down and paint until you get the desired coverage.
Thanks for your replies. Arqadia are sending me a sample to practice on. Should I sand after each coat of gesso or just layer it on and sand at the end? How long does each coat take to dry? I ask as I have a lot of frames to make in a short space of time and that may decide what method I use. R&H's moulding looks very similar and I'll choose between them when I'm ready to order.
AQ 151 400 000 is identical to the R&H one as far as I can tell.
As for gesso, if you are doing a batch of frames then by the time you have coated the last one the first one should be ready for the next coat. In fact it's better to apply subsequent coats while the previous coat is not fully hardened. Best to sand between coats. It's all a matter of coat/sand until you have a surface that is smooth with no lumps and bumps. You aren't gilding, so you only need apply enough coats to get a reasonably smooth surface for the paint. Let the last coat dry overnight and do a final sand before painting.
I find that it will take a few coats of the final paint as well. I like to apply it with a piece of fine sponge to keep it smouth, again sanding between coates. you can also apply a wash to the top this way which can be quite interesting as well.
Don't know how he could sand between coats as gesso takes 24 hour to dry before sanding. Typo error perhaps. Best is to lay on 3 to 4 coats of gesso and then sand when dry. When you see the wood grain ghosting through, you've gone too far!
Sand smooth first with 180 grit paper, then finish with 320 grit.
Sorry to labour this point but on the Wickes website they say the ripple paint has 48 hours drying time. Do you think this is when you flop it on thick say on a ceiling or wall? I know that a number of you use this paint and will be guided by you. So, if I roller or paint it on normal thickness how long approximately will it take to dry before recoating?
I've used literally gallons of this paint and a normal coat will dry enough to sand and overpaint in well under half an hour. If you are doing textured surfaces where you lay it on with a trowel then the thick bits will take longer, maybe 4-5 hours to be safe, but that's like putting 5 coats on at once so fair dos.
48 hours seems a bit extreme. Think that's a CYA number.
Thanks for your reply prospero. That makes me much more confident that I'll get the job done in time. Thanks also to you jamesnkr for the link. I am too limited on time this time around but I will definitely check this out for future frames as the artist would like a wider mount than the 70mm moulding will give. The process may be too expensive for her pocket - unfortunately most of the artists I work with don't want to pay the going rate for good quality frames!
You can concoct a wider panel (sorry, it's not really a mount ) You can get small mouldings that resemble a figure 4 in section. The widest flat, plain moulding you can get (easily) are about 76mm. They will have a rebate though which may or may not be an issue. If you add a 4 moulding inside the wide flat in the manner of a fillet - cut them on their backs. you can achieve a 90mm or thereabouts width. If you are lucky the width of the rebate lip on the 4 bit will be nicely flush with the top surface and you can blend it the join. Or you can leave a little ridge which might look good on a wider panel.
Wider than that you would need some MDF and a router table or maybe a table saw.
If I am understanding you correctly prospero (something like R&H A243 cut upside down with SW9504 (shaped like a 4) in the rebate) yes, there would be a ledge about 3mm high. My customer requires a seemless flat panel. I could try A293 or A231 together with the flat wide moulding cut upside down but would need to glue a 6mm deep fillet to the underside of the bevelled moulding and I'm not sure that would all fix together securely.
I have the contact details for a couple of CNC router services companies in Devon to ring on Monday. In the short term I've told the artist that we'll have to go ahead with the 70mm moulding and in the fullness of time, if I can't get the panels routed for the right price, I will certainly try your suggestion.
There can be a problem with this type of thing and the wider you go the worse it gets. Wood will expand/contract and it does it across the grain rather than along. Even if the join stays stuck there is a tendency for hairline cracks to appear along the mitre if the frame is subjected to changes in temperature and humidity. It's a simple job to fill the crack and once done never seems to happen again, but it's a snag all the same.
If you use MDF it might be better. In fact by tipping the blade on a table saw to 45° you can cut two bevels at once. The problem with MDF is that a cut surface is rough and needs a lot of smoothing. It's also not as rigid as solid wood so even with the thicker boards it can bend.
If I had to construct such a panel using MDF I would fix a flat piece of pine to the back to stiffen it up. I would first cut triangles of the pine and glue them across the corners of the MDF part - grain at 90° to the mitre line. Then fill in the gap between the triangles. It's more faff of course but it would be strong.
) You can get small mouldings that resemble a figure 4 in section. The widest flat, plain moulding you can get (easily) are about 76mm. They will have a rebate though which may or may not be an issue. If you add a 4 moulding inside the wide flat in the manner of a fillet - cut them on their backs. you can achieve a 90mm or thereabouts width. If you are lucky the width of the rebate lip on the 4 bit will be nicely flush with the top surface and you can blend it the join. Or you can leave a little ridge which might look good on a wider panel.