Wax on wax off

[David McCormack]

What methods do folk use to apply wax to their frames? I've always used a cloth to apply the wax and then another to buff it up followed by a going over with a furniture polishing brush. In another thread there has been discussion about applying lime wax diluted with white spirit. I've also read you can apply wax with a brush?

Sometimes I wish there was an easier way particularly as I'm doing more and more large frames. Any thoughts or ideas thanks.

[GeoSpectrum]

I use a a brush to apply and a cloth to remove. I find this quite a quick method.

[David McCormack]

What sort of brush do you use, short bristles?

[GeoSpectrum]

No, a normal household painting brush.

[David McCormack]

Right, shall give that a try thanks.

[Whitewater Gallery]

I use a cloth to put on and take off for both the lime wax and the wax, using them straight out of the tin. I guess when using a paint brush to apply they are thinned down? - is that the correct term!

[vintage frames]

A good idea is to trim the hairs on the paintbrush to about 1 1/2 inch. The secret of a good wax finish is to apply as thinly as possible, and to use two coats - letting the first dry out.

[pramsay13]

I use a sponge to put on and a tshirt to remove / buff.

[Roboframer]

Paper towel from a centre-pull dispenser to apply and whatever's handy in the bag of rags, could be second hand glass microfiber cloths or an old T shirt.

I always use latex gloves to apply and have got taking them off with the soaked paper towels inside them off to a T

[prospero]

A brush has an advantage when waxing profiles with grooves and suchlike that a cloth would skip over. I work it into the crevices and then take of the excess with a cloth. Leave for maybe an hour and then a good buffing with a clean cloth. If you are applying rottenstone it should be added before the final buffing so it sticks to any build-up of wax in the grooves.

I find that with a new tin you don't need to thin too much if at all. As the tin get used the remaining wax will get harder. Adding a little white spirit will revitalise it a bit. Warming it also helps.

[Roboframer]

I think a brush might have other advantages, like not needing latex gloves! I must try it but cleaning of said brush may be an issue, I can just toss the paper towels/gloves and a brush wouldn't be a brush anyway, it would be quite a few brushes that would all end up as congealed matted lumps without daily maintenance, which I'm not good at and even if I was I'd need jars of turpentine/spirit about the place and I'd receive complaints from the shop front about the fumes - which could come in physical form ....

I may have just talked myself in to and straight back out of, using brushes!

.

[caro]

I sometimes use fine grade wire wool to rub wax in to woodgrain, wearing gloves I s good idea. this works with flat and contoured profiles, buff with a rag. ,but you get a grey tinge if using lime wax. You can varnish first, e.g. one coat, or more, white French polish,then wire wax for good sheen.

[prospero]

No problem cleaning brushes. Just don't. Let the wax set in the bristles and next time you use it the solvent will soften it up. You don't need a top quality one in any case.
One thing you have to watch with a brush is the metal ferrule. If you get too vigorous you can scrape it on the finish.

Wirewool is good, but it will abrade the surface. This is fine in most cases but you can cut too deep on sharp edges/raised beads and go down to the bare wood.

Yes , wirewool on a white finish will give you a grey finish.

[David McCormack]

I find that with a new tin you don't need to thin too much if at all. As the tin get used the remaining wax will get harder. Adding a little white spirit will revitalise it a bit. Warming it also helps.

I think this has been my problem as I'm getting towards using up my first tin of wax!

Lots of good suggestions thanks, will try a brush and warming/thinning the wax.

[SPF]

I apply with either a brush or paper towel, on plain woods for a more durable wax finish I warm the wax with a hairdryrer so that it melts and really penetrates the grain wiping at the same time with a paper towel which also removes any excess whilst still appliying where needed, once dry, buff with a good clean soft cotton rag.

[David McCormack]

A good idea about using a hairdryer, I was just wondering how to warm the wax up.

[prospero]

In the winter I leave the tin on the storage heater.

If you are adding spirit it's better to dip the brush in a small pot of the stuff and swizzle it about in the hardened wax rather than try and mix it into the tin.

[Not your average framer]

I don't apply the wax to bare wood, but always seal the wood first. Then I apply the wax with a paint brush. The wax needs brushing out well to get a consistent coating.

I don't like waiting for the wax to set, so I warm the wax with a hot air gun, so that the solvent can evaporate faster and to make the wax set much quicker.

When the wax has cooled, I polish the hardened wax with a dosposable paper kitchen towel. Job Done!